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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Carlton Bale] [ In reply to ]
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Carlton Bale wrote:
Looks interesting, but I'm not sure if the price is low enough to outweigh the "factory-ness" of the Shimano internal battery solution. Regardless, good luck with the new product.

"factory-ness"... interesting, for DA 9070 I guess you have a point, but for Ultegra it's 1/2 the price, and the "factory-ness" is not visible, but "money-in-the-pocket-ness" is. I also have an option for less if removing the seat post to charge the battery is not an issue
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [di2diy] [ In reply to ]
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FWIW I own one of these, which I was v. happy with on my old setup, but it does not appear work at all with the new 5 port junction box (which is why I'm selling mine in the classifieds)
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [di2diy] [ In reply to ]
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Great, this confirms that it should work with my intended setups.

The online retailer i am using offers a good price, the main benefit for the ebay offer is higher battery capacity (800mAh over 500mAh). If it really works, i think i can built a external battery pack (like the iPhone battery extender) if required.

Thanks a lot for the feedback :)
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [freeloader] [ In reply to ]
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freeloader wrote:
the main benefit for the ebay offer is higher battery capacity (800mAh over 500mAh).

Given how infrequently the Shimano system requires recharging, two times per year max, I don't see this being all that much of an advantage.

The other advantage of the Shimano internal system is that the charger is also the USB adapter that updates the firmware and change settings. That is the most important consideration in my opinion.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [ollie3856] [ In reply to ]
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Are you saying you have one of the eBay conversions that will not work with the 5 port? if so its because the battery module needs to be updated to E tube v2.04, also it can not be updated with the system, it needs to be updated by its self, unplug the FD, RD, and junction control, than do an update of the BTMR1, than it will work just fine
Last edited by: di2diy: May 3, 13 10:39
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [di2diy] [ In reply to ]
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Just to be safe I would verify that the ebay conversion does have a fuse or PCB installed. Li-Po batteries can catch fire if they short.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Carlton Bale] [ In reply to ]
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True, this is an advantage, but only limited update of E tube firmware through the charged, it is not a system checker... you need an SM-PCE1 for diagnostics, BTW it will only work if all the firmware versions are the same for the components, if not you will need the SM-PCE1, to make them match, before you can update with the charger (at least for Ultegra, I don't know about 9070). I also saw an earlier post of yours where you seemed to be saying that you can add sprint shifters to Ultegra levers, this is false, the climber shifter is the only remote shifter you can add to Ultegra at this time, the E tube sprint shifters only work with 9070 levers, or perhaps I misunderstood you post.


This is from the Shimano product info for the charger
  • For use with Alfine Electronic, Dura-Ace 9070 and Ultegra 6770 equipped bicycles with internal batteries
  • SM-BCR2 Internal battery charger is specific to the SM-BTR2 internal battery (BA9070)
  • Includes USB (SM-USB1) power adapter
  • All Di2 components on the bicycle require the same firmware version. Using Di2 components with different firmware versions may cause malfunctions
  • Use Di2 system checker to update component firmware from http://e-tubeproject.shimano.com/

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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bartturner] [ In reply to ]
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It is not a Lipo battery, and yes it has a PCB, all the specifications for the battery and charger can be found in the listings, also check the feedback, of buyers... happy, to ecstatic, for both E tube and 7970 buyers.
http://www.ebay.com/...id=p3984.m1555.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/...id=p3984.m1555.l2649
http://www.ebay.com/...id=p3984.m1555.l2649
and for charging in the bike,
http://www.ebay.com/...id=p3984.m1555.l2649


I also do custom harnesses with remote buttons for guys wanting to ride but have limited hand function like paralympic and wounded warrior's. Some of my profit goes to help those who have limited funds for custom set-ups, another words free, just materials cost.
Last edited by: di2diy: May 3, 13 10:34
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Carlton Bale] [ In reply to ]
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I agree, recharging only once a year instead of 2-3 times is not that big a deal. This is a carryover from previous designs when removing the seat post was required to re charge the battery, remember, I was selling my system for more than a year before Shimano released their seat post battery, and I only recently redesigned the system to allow inline charging.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Carlton Bale] [ In reply to ]
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Yes the Ultegra levers work with 9070 if updated firmware.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [di2diy] [ In reply to ]
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di2diy wrote:
BTW it will only work if all the firmware versions are the same for the components, if not you will need the SM-PCE1, to make them match, before you can update with the charger (at least for Ultegra, I don't know about 9070).

I was able to update a mix of 1.x and 2.x firmware version components to the latest version. The worst case scenario would be to unplug components and update them individually, or perhaps just select one component at a time when first opening the E-tube software. But at least for me, there were no issues applying updates to get everything to the latest version all at once. I think the caution may be around using E-tube to change the configuration settings (i.e. button functions and multi-shift) if the components have mixed firmware versions. This would definitely cause issues.

Quote:
I also saw an earlier post of yours where you seemed to be saying that you can add sprint shifters to Ultegra levers, this is false, the climber shifter is the only remote shifter you can add to Ultegra at this time, the E tube sprint shifters only work with 9070 levers, or perhaps I misunderstood you post.

You're correct about the Sprint Shifters not working with Ultegra. I was thinking climbing shifter.

di2diy wrote:
I agree, recharging only once a year instead of 2-3 times is not that big a deal. This is a carryover from previous designs when removing the seat post was required to re charge the battery, remember, I was selling my system for more than a year before Shimano released their seat post battery, and I only recently redesigned the system to allow inline charging.

I agree, I think Shimano looked at what the aftermarket innovators were doing with Di2 and copied it.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [ In reply to ]
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i have question about the plan. i am not sure how to make the electric wiring diagram for that for internal battery and internal cable/wiring

i will change gears by
2x sw-r600 (l/r)
2x sw-671 (l/r)

those 4 cables get joined in a sm-ew90b

which get forwarded by a cable to a sm-ew-67-a-e

which get forwarded by a cable to an sm-jc41

from this sm-jc41

one cable goes to sm-btr2
one cable to fd-6770
one cable to rd-6770

and thats it? or were is my flaw in the plan?

thanks!

(yes not brake levers, they are non-shimano)
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bikemessenger88] [ In reply to ]
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bikemessenger88 wrote:
i have question about the plan. i am not sure how to make the electric wiring diagram for that for internal battery and internal cable/wiring

i will change gears by
2x sw-r600 (l/r)
2x sw-671 (l/r)

those 4 cables get joined in a sm-ew90b

which get forwarded by a cable to a sm-ew-67-a-e

which get forwarded by a cable to an sm-jc41

from this sm-jc41

one cable goes to sm-btr2
one cable to fd-6770
one cable to rd-6770

and thats it? or were is my flaw in the plan?

thanks!

(yes not brake levers, they are non-shimano)

The only flaw is that you don't need the sm-ew-67-a-e. You only need 1 "A junction", and that's the sm-ew90b. There is a cable between it and the sm-jc41"B junction".
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bikemessenger88] [ In reply to ]
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bikemessenger88 wrote:
i have question about the plan. i am not sure how to make the electric wiring diagram for that for internal battery and internal cable/wiring

i will change gears by
2x sw-r600 (l/r)
2x sw-671 (l/r)

those 4 cables get joined in a sm-ew90b

which get forwarded by a cable to a sm-ew-67-a-e

which get forwarded by a cable to an sm-jc41

from this sm-jc41

one cable goes to sm-btr2
one cable to fd-6770
one cable to rd-6770

and thats it? or were is my flaw in the plan?

thanks!

(yes not brake levers, they are non-shimano)


Will the R600 work with only the R671 and 5 port junction?
Last edited by: retzel: May 9, 13 18:41
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Carlton Bale] [ In reply to ]
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Carlton Bale wrote:
The only flaw is that you don't need the sm-ew-67-a-e. You only need 1 "A junction", and that's the sm-ew90b. There is a cable between it and the sm-jc41"B junction".

ah!
first of all: thanks for you answer.
if i am right: the sm-e7-a-e shows battery capacity and error and has a button for reset the system. so sm-ew-90b includes the same functionality and additionaly supports 5 instead of just 2 or 3 cable connections?
i read that the sm-ew-90b even may have a ant+ (which i dont really need, but well, it is nice)
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bikemessenger88] [ In reply to ]
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bikemessenger88 wrote:
if i am right: the sm-e7-a-e shows battery capacity and error and has a button for reset the system. so sm-ew-90b includes the same functionality and additionaly supports 5 instead of just 2 or 3 cable connections?

Yes. Also the SM-EW90-B is completely modular while the SM-EW67-A-E has two fixed cables for the STI shifters.

bikemessenger88 wrote:
i read that the sm-ew-90b even may have a ant+ (which i dont really need, but well, it is nice)

That feature and the updated FlightDeck computer were dropped due to technological/schedule problems.
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [VP] [ In reply to ]
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VP wrote:


That feature and the updated FlightDeck computer were dropped due to technological/schedule problems.


ah so the ant+ feature is out. but well. i dont need it.

thank you VP for your answer!


there is another important issue: can the sw-r600 be programmed to manage the front derailleur? or only the rear derailleur? if not i am f****d
Last edited by: bikemessenger88: May 8, 13 23:27
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [turboferret] [ In reply to ]
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turboferret wrote:

I did a quick dis-assemble of my aero levers, which I am planning to piggy-back some extra wires onto for remote switches, but the internals are pretty tiny!


complete unit


with the cover removed


the micro-switches


Haribo for scale

I am assuming that there must be a CANBUS controller in that tiny little unit or is the controller actually in the SM-EW90-A? Has anyone else taken one apart and been faced with tiny surface-mount components, or accidentally destroyed the unit while opening it up?

Cheers, Rich

Hi Rich. Did you push through with opening the TT shifter?

Been thinking about setting just like this because of the availability and compatibility issues. Whats available in my country are the R-671 TT shifter and the 3-port top junction box. I intend to add shift switches near the brake.

1. First option would be to open the TT shifter, solder some wires and put parallel switches near the brake for shifting while in the basebars.

2. I also saw some used 7971 brake levers with switches here. I assume that these are simple on/off switches (not sure???). If so, then it will be as simple as to connect this to the wires wired parallel to the switch board.

Possible?
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [koykoy] [ In reply to ]
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I've been meaning to update this thread with my progress, so here goes:

Bar-end shifters opened up, internal bits replaced with 2 waterproof micro-switches, which required a fair amount of dremmeling, a bit of soldering, some epoxy resin, then some silicon to finish - end result is that the shifters look absolutely stock and the switches work exactly as they did out of the box




The internal canbus electronic module which did have the micro-switches came apart fairly easily just by sliding a scalpel blade to separate the diaphragm which sealed it all together. Relatively delicate soldering required inside as the switches were tiny










Some insulation tape to hold everything together prior to more silicon to waterproof everything.


One note I should make at this point was I was trying to save as much money as possible during my build, and I wanted everything to be removable if required, so I didn't want any fully soldered joints which would stop complete disassembly of the bike. I also wasn't hugely keen on spending ~$25 on more Shimano proprietary Di2 cables than necessary, so pretty much everything was chopped and I used R/C servo extension cables pretty much everywhere. I kept the Di2 cables for where they plugged into Shimano parts, but most of these were Shimano on one end, servo on the other. The nice thing about the servo extension cables is that they obviously come with both male and female connectors. Most places you will only need 2 of the wires, but for the satellite shifter buttons you need all 3.


One example of a Shimano cable being split (meaning I only needed half the total number) Insulation tape, heat shrink and silicon for the joint.






Again, the junction box is simply a way of joining all the +ves and -ves together, so I made my own - not necessarily particularly pretty, but functional, and hidden inside the frame regardless!






Starting to thread all the cables through






emerging from the BB



with the DIY junction connector




everything wired in






front end with satellite switches just visible on brake levers - I have put one on the outside for index finger use, the other on the inside for thumb, works nicely. These are Cat Eye remote buttons I picked up from eBay, recommended by another twitcher somewhere, should be waterproof and fit for purpose. Everything fitted inside the base bars without problems, although I did open up the holes for the brake cables a bit with the trusty Dremmel to make things easier, hopefully I won't have an expensive dental bill as a result!






Original battery to be replaced by a tiny LiPo seatpost mounted item, as soon as my chargers stop missing in the post from China...this will suffice for the moment, although I only have 1 battery between 2 Di2 bikes, so I need to make sure I fit the battery before heading out to ride!






ready for a test fit






Just needs some bar tape and the saddle lowering a bit, and she's ready to roll!






For those interested, the frame is a Hong-Fu HF-FM086 purchased via VeloBuild which seems pretty good so far, although it's only done a few hundred miles so far.


Oh, and in relation to your 2nd question koykoy, AFAIK all of the Shimano components have a Canbus electronic brain to convert the signals into 2-wire power + signal, unless you are talking about early Dura Ace which used a 4-wire system, which was simpler/cheaper to hack, but not compatible with the later systems. Unless you are going to strip-down a canbus unit and piggy-back on an extra set of switches as I have done, you need an extra brain, and probably a 5-port top junction box too. However, if they are good value, it might be a nice option having the switches already integrated into a brake lever, with no dangling wires and still be relatively cost-effective. I wanted my total system to be light and cheap, and the TRP carbon levers were both of those!


Cheers, Rich
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [bikemessenger88] [ In reply to ]
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does that work? (read text in red bubble for more) thanks!
i am still not sure, if 2 x sw-r600 without an st 6770 does work, or if the software manage them only for rear derallieur?!
flickr-link for diagram
http://www.flickr.com/...et-72157633446564589

nobody knows if this will work or not? :-S
Last edited by: bikemessenger88: May 11, 13 0:14
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [locutus] [ In reply to ]
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For those of you who have dismantled your ultegra 6770 shifters. Do you have any use for them? If anyone wants to sell the aluminum lever part or even the whole shifter minus the electronics please msg me.

I have a snapped left lever i'm having trouble sourcing a repair part for after I crashed it. Would take the left hand or both sides whatever is available.

[url=http://www.flickr.com/...9701@N06/8745513648/][/url]
[url=http://www.flickr.com/...9701@N06/8745513648/]20130516_131528[/url]
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [liquid_speed] [ In reply to ]
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"Wanted to use the sprint shifters for customers with Cervelo P5s with hydraulic brakes. Unfortunately, the new e-tube sprint shifter will only work in the 3rd port of the 9070 STI lever.

But I also pitched the question of the tri bike setup where replacing the brake levers with 9071 is not an option ... still awaiting a response "



Did you ever get an answer to the above?
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [locutus] [ In reply to ]
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locutus wrote:
Hello,

Yes, it would work if you spliced into the wires between the black box and x/y (up/down) shift buttons on the levers. I've done this mod before for someone who wanted satellite shifters with the STIs....space is tight in the splice area but can be done with small wires and patience!



Space is EXTREMELY tight. Has anyone found a way to cut into the "black box" itself and attach accessory wires to where the shift buttons actually connect to the PCB?

I'm going to add TT shifters on the mini-TT of my road bike that I recently added DI2, but can't fathom how that little black wire is going to fit back into the casing once I have shrunk-wrap the new wires.

Dkblume wrote:
Carlton, Thanks. Yes, I feel like I got pretty lucky with these switches. In my opinion they make the build. I did a lot of searching and think these are a great choice for this application. They are fully sealed and high quality. Not cheap ($50/ea), but ideal for the application. I bought them at Digikey.com. I did not use the mounting hardware, but simply rolled electrical tape around the threads, reversed the tape halfway so the "sticky" side was exposed and wedged them into the bar ends like bar end plugs. They come with the rubber "seal" rings shown below, but the fit is so good, I just put a little silicone on the bar ends to form a seal. The Switches are rated waterproof/dustproof and I soldered the wires and sealed the connections, so I am not concerned about exposure to the elements.

http://www.digikey.com/...t-detail/en/MTG72AD2





http://www.apem.com/pdf/MT.pdf


With the newest firmwares that allow multi or sequential shifting, do these work as momentary switches? As long as you keep holding up, it keeps shifting, right?
Last edited by: Telemachus: Jun 23, 13 16:02
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [locutus] [ In reply to ]
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locutus wrote:
You just splice into the three wires from the black box. I modified the diagram to show an example of how it can be done. Let me know if you need help with anything else or want further clarification.

Hi,

I've got two more questions regarding an Ultegra Di2 installation that I could not answer studying this thread:

1. The diagram of locutus shows that the rear junction box can be replaced by soldering all positives to all positives and all negatives to all negatives. Is this also valid for the shifter wires before the front junction box. In specific, can I solder the wires of the SW-R671 shifters to the wires of the ST-9071 shifters and use a 3 port front junction box instead of a 5 port one?

2. Could anyone post the dimensions of a SM-EW90-A junction box? I found the dimensions of the SM-EW90-B which are 47 x 24 x 16 mm and would like to compare the dimensions.

Thanks a lot!

Best regards, Frank
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Re: DIY Ultegra Di2 TT [Telemachus] [ In reply to ]
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my solution is pretty much a copy of what everyone else is done here, except for I am using the STI shifters with mini TT bars.

http://db.tt/vdgxJui6

http://db.tt/CZSuz2CD

http://db.tt/OlIPPNit

http://db.tt/HjZe4DJZ
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