oki thats what i was affraid of ...

I guess the cheapest solution is to use the climbing shifters isntead of brakes and then go through junction box b since the cable is to short to reach the stem


thanks for your help, its extremely useful

Hilarious!!! i haven't laughed at a ST post in forever.

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Fine Line Racing - "this is living"

1. Downtube Cable: 1000mm
2. Battery Cable: 300mm
3. FD Cable: 300mm
4. RD Cable: 600mm
5. Junction B Box: Internal - SM-JC41
6. Junction A Box: 5 Port - SW-EW90B
7. Bar End Shifters: SW-R671
8. Brake Lever Shifters: ST-9071
9. Short Ext Battery Mount: SM-BMR1-S

What size bike is this parts list for, more specifically, the cable lengths. I just got my wiring in, but i got a 950mm cable for the down tube, my bike is a 56. Will it work or should I exchange it?


Would you be interested in doing the hack on the brake levers if I paid you? PM me if your are interested.

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

Size 56

Thanks for your How to. I got my 9071s and the cat eye buttons in the mail today, so tonight I drank a beer to get some liquid courage and went to work. Everything was straight forward just like you captured in your pics. Thanks for that. The toughest part was removing the glued white piece, the first one came off in pieces, but the second came off no problem.

I'm going to swing into a cell phone repair shop that is local and have the soldering done. I thought about picking up a soldering iron and doing it myself, but I don't have vice to hold it like you did and I have next to no experience with a soldering iron and it looks like there isn't much room for error. I assume that one solder goes on the gold dot and the other on the gold square and can't touch other. Correct?

How much silicone did you use? Did you cover the entire board? Does the board end up in the base bar? Final question, which way did you route the wire, from the stem out or bull horn in? It seems like bull horn in would be easier, but I haven't done it, so what do I know.

Thanks for posting this!

Ben

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ishi no ue ni san nen | Perseverance will win in the end. | Blog | @nebmot | Strava | Instagram |

FYI, there is another thread on Di2 mods, not P5-specific but it goes into the same concepts:

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...post=5092163#5092163


One point I wanted to share. Be aware that you can ease the soldering since you only need to solder 3 wires, not the 4 shown by the OP. Also, as shown in my post on the other thread, the solder points don't need to be so close. This will ease the job, and reduce the risks of short-circuits or heat-damage to the hardware.
I now have shifters at three points on the bars (including the aerobar pads for climbing), and didn't need to dispose of any Shimano hardware since I modified the aerobar end-shifter.

Does anybody know where can I find detailed step by step instruction how to make a Di2 shifter out of ST-9071? I have seen it on the internet a while ago but now when I want start my modification I am not able to find it.

Hi Schulbub,
did you ever find a dealer who has the CatEye switches in stock in Germany? I'm having the same issue and want to pimp my S-Works SHIV as well with the additional shifting options. But I'm struggling finding buttons... Unbelievable that one cannot proceed because of bottons which cost only a few Euros...
Any idea?

Unfortunately no....I aquired them through an unbelivably friendly member of the weight weenies forum.

Hi there,
there was the question if there is a step-by-step explanation for the "ST-9071" solution. Here it is: http://www.gearsandgrinds.com/...4/5/5/magura-di2-mod
I'm afraid that I also have to go this way as the CatEye switches seem to be as rare as diamonds. ...at least in Germany.
I will test a local electronic shop if they have switches comparable to the CatEye buttons. If yes, I will leave a post here as well.
Following all these forums I wonder when Shimano and / or Magura will come up with a "professional" solution. But licensing and all kinds of legal issues will probably prohibit such a step.
Anyway...

Good for you...
So, the hack worked out at the end and you're satisfied with the result? Where did you hide the Shimano "box" of the hacked switches? in the base bar? Did it fit with the Magura hose? Was it "plain vanilla" or more a pain in the a**?

For others, search Ebay for "CatEye Remote Button Kit", US seller that will ship Internationally. I ordered 2 sets for 32$ shipped to EU, a couple of months ago. Nowhere else to be found.

Indeed.
I was lucky and checked by coincidence in eBay and tataaa... I found a guy in Germany who had 2 sets of CatEye Remote Shifters. But I guess I was just really lucky...
I installed it and it's smooth like butter and worked well in Kona this year ;-)