Man, that is a large chainring :)

Nice black sled !

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
DarkSpeedWorks.com.....Reviews.....Insta.....Facebook
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Thank you for sharing, incredible bike

1. Is there a risk for water pooling in the case with upturned Di2 shifters?

2. The brake mod over the cap and looped in the nose works great! I went for a ride with it today. Thanks!

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/Howie Nordström

No worries, happy to help! As for the upturned Di2 shifters, not sure, hopefully it is sealed? Might open them up after a wet ride and check it out. I am sure once I arrive to England I will have plenty of opportunities to find out.............

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

I will be building the same bike in the next weeks...

I have couple of questions... regarding the seatpost battery, wiring length for Cervelo NP3 - 48cm...

Aero-Shifters: Dura-Ace 9071 STI
Brake-Shifters: ST-9071 TT
Rear Derailleur: Dura-Ace RD9070
Front Derailleur Size: Braze-ON RD9070
Battery: Internal Battery SM-BTR2
Charger: Internal Battery Charger SM-BCR2 Di2 Internal Cherger E-Tube
Charger Cable: Not need internal
Junction A: 5 Port SM-WE90B
Junction B: Internal Wiring
Battery Mount: Not need internal
Wire X 4 Shifter to Junc A: Short 300mm or Medium 350mm or Long 400mm
Wire X 1 Junc A to Junc B: Medium 750mm or Long 950mm or Long 1000mm or Extra Long 1200mm
Wire X 1 Junc B to Front Der: Short 500mm or Medium 550mm or Long 600mm
Wire X 1 Junc B to Rear Der: Short 500mm or Medium 750mm or Long 950mm
Wire X 1 Junc B to Battery: Short 500mm or Medium 550mm or Long 600mm

LBS said they would not install seatpost battery... how hard is it to wire on a NP3? Can't a do it myself and do I require specific tools?

Thanks in advance,
Alex

Alex,

Sorry not sure what length was used. It just needs to run from the junction box that should be in the BB area up the seat tube. Shouldn't be that hard to run. Ask them if they will just run the wire up the seat tube and you will install it. Wonder why they won't install it in there, they don't want to be responsible for it?

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Hi Brad,

Thanks for posting this thread including the multiple photos and all the answers you're giving.

It's true the battery fits inside the seat post (as you've demonstrated), it's just that there's no "official" (manufactured) way to keep it there. This may be one reason a shop might hesitate to set it up this way. But your (and others') methods seem to be working.

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

Illusion- I think you posted the question on the TriRig page, but here was there response in case it wasn't you that asked the questions "there's really no risk of water pooling as you suggest. The shifter pods are sealed nice and tight, as are the buttons."- TriRig

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Damon- Thanks for chiming in and answering all of the questions. Makes sense why they would not want to take the responsibility since it is not an actual place that you guys recommend installing it.

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Hi Brad,

We don't recommend against it, either. We just haven't taken that close a look at it yet. ;-)

Cheers,

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Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)

I will continue to test it for you and let you know if I end up with any problems. Thanks again for your feedback!

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Thanks Brad. I didn't see Nick's response.

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/Howie Nordström

My LBS called Cervélo, and they suggested a shim to hold the internal battery in the seat post. I found that a small inner tube fits nicely around the battery, and with a wrap of electrical tape around the battery at the top and bottom of the inner tube allows the battery to sit quite firmly.

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/Howie Nordström

The shifters already have wires that are long enough to run through the basebar/extensions to the 5-port junction, even if the junction is placed behind the stem in a bento box.


You'll want to get an SM-PCE1 to update the firmware of the Di2 components, (re-)program and functions, and for making very small F&RD adjustments.

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/Howie Nordström

Bartape does the trick as well.

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I understood that the aero-shifters already come with cables but I wasn't sure that the ST-9071 also included cables because the retailers I looked at mentioned that they don't?

MTL, I've also got a 48cm frame and doing a similar setup to you (ultegra mainly, ST-9071 and 10-speed RD). I'm placing the junction box (JC-41) behind the BB as the frame already had the Rotor 4624 BB adapter installed and I didn't want to have it replaced as it is suppose to be used once only.

I measured the frame and decided for the wire lengths:
RD to Junc B: 550mm
FD to Junc B: 200mm
Battery in seat-post or seat-tube (as others have done as well): 350mm
Junc A to Junc B: 1000mm

At the end of the day you can go longer as the cables will be hidden in the frame anyway.

I have already ordered most of the parts (except base-bar, bar-end shifters, SM-EW90-B).

As for SM-PCE1, I understand that the internal battery charger (SM-BCR2) can also update firmware and re-program, etc but compared to the PCE1 you can't run diagnostics. I already have a PCE1 for my external di2 setup on another bike but haven't had the need to use that function so you can probably save some money now and decide later.

I have the same bars and brakes on my NP2--I'm curious, did you route the rear brake hose through the top tube entry (with the shifter cables) or the side of the top tube?

My bike was assembled with the rear brake line on the side of the down tube. The bike is currently in the shop to have some recabling. The shop is going to try to re-route the rear brake cable through the top tube, and the front brake cable through the Vuka Stealth bars exiting at the brake cable hole in the bottom centre of the bar. I will be picking up the bike tomorrow and will let you know how the shop made out.

Sure is a lot of aero bar sticking out the top of your hands. Might want to cut that down a bit?

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"

I actually ride with my hands quite a bit higher. That picture was pre race at Galveston and day #3 on the bike. It does look like that in the picture that I posted though.

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-Brad Williams
Website | Twitter: @BW_Tri |Instagram: @BW_Tri | Strava | Co-Founder & Coach at: KIS Coaching
Partnered with: Zoot Sports | Precision Fuel &Hydration | ISM

Your forearms are almost perfectly horizontal (good).

I rode with similar bars for a while. I cut them down so the shifters fitted in my hand, acting like part of the bar. My arms stayed horizontal and only the barest bit of the shifter lever stuck out of my hand. I ride with shallower bars these days but sill have them cut down a lot.

I have also developed quite a teardrop shape to my body. Plus my fat cheeks blend into my helmet for a very aero effect. No-one beats me downhill! :-(

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TriDork

"Happiness is a myth. All you can hope for is to get laid once in a while, drunk once in a while and to eat chocolate every day"