which threads don't want to engage, the ones in the puller or the ones that thread into the cranks?
Are you using the appropriate tip on the puller for the square taper crank? I think it's the smaller of the two tips, the larger (or other) one is for octalink/isis.

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Jonathan Blyer,
ACME Bicycle Co., Brooklyn, NY

Hi Jonathon
The threads on the puller don't want to take.
I only have one tip on the puller, like this
I got a new compact crank and it threads on it now problem.
Thanks
Ewan

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Ewan

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If you have the wrong tip on the end of the pulller, it wont allow you to slide the extractor in far enough for the threads to engage. it probably threads just fine in your new cranks because they don't have a BB inside of them. If the tip is too big it will bear on the crank arm and not on the bottom bracket like it's supposed to. Try taking the tip off altogether and seeing if it will thread. You might want to take it to your LBS and ask them if you have the right tip or not. I'm 99% sure the square taper tip is smaller than the octalink/isis tip.

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Jonathan Blyer,
ACME Bicycle Co., Brooklyn, NY

don't forget to take out the crank bolt washer with the crank bolt.

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The only other possibility is that the threads of the crank are stripped. There are thread chasers for to remedy that problem though.

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-Darrell

How old is the crank? There was a generation(we're talking a long long time ago) that had a unique thread-in size, if I'm not mistaken.

That is what I was thinking, I don't know the age (bike was used).
In Zinn's book he mentioned about Campy cranks pre 97 were different.
I will have to re-read that when I get home tonight.
Maybe I will stop off at the LBS tonight on the way home and ask them.
Thanks
Ewan

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Ewan

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The best I could find is a reference to campy cranks from 1990-1996 that are a left hand thread.
Found it here http://www.branfordbike.com/crank/crank9.html
It mentions that from 90-96 they used a 7mm bolt but mine is 8mm
Frustrating when you don't have all the tools you need.
Ewan

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Ewan

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The tool shown above is the proper tool. Thread in the tool by hand, sometimes the edge of the last thread can get mucked up and feel like you are messing up the crank arm. If not, I have found that a "steering wheel puller" that you can "borrow" at no cost from AutoZone will get off a crank arm - no threads needed.

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What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?

Make sure the threads are clean, and do not extract until the crankarm is all the way tightened. You may need to use a sharp object to clean the threads.

You removed the washer, didn't you?

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Swimming Workout of the Day:

Favourite Swim Sets:

2020 National Masters Champion - M50-54 - 50m Butterfly

Quite a mess. No worries. You'll need to do some looking mate, but there is a campag specific bit for just the job. If you can find one of the older campag tool catalogs at your stockist or on line they can reconnoiter it for you. At least one old lad around this place had one.

Not sure exactly the name of the bit, but it was more of an add-on to a spanner than a spanner itself.

The thing is I can't thread the tool in, well not easily. If I use a little force I can get it a couple of turn in, but as soon as I start to turn the pin in it starts to strip the threads.
Steering wheel puller I wonder if they have Autozone loaners up north eh?
Ewan

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Ewan

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I think this is the it. I can use my crank puller on the new campy crank I just got but as soon as I try on the older cranks on the bike it just won't "fit"
I think a trip to the bike shop is in order
Thanks
Ewan

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Ewan

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Not that one this one.....

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What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?

_EH_,

That's the same puller I use on my Campy cranks. Works on my Campy Bianchi I purchased in 1995 and all the Chorus I've purchased since.

Just in case you are unfamiliar with how to use this tool, you back out the crank from the nut all the way. Then you screw the nut into the crankarm after removing any bolt cover if you have a cover. As you turn the nut to screw it into the crank arm, you turn the lever arm as well to keep it retracted in the nut. When the nut is screwed in a few turns ( this "nut" will not go in all that far, there isn't room or threads enough to turn it in more than a couple turns), you can put a wrench on the nut and then turn the lever to screw the "pusher" in to push off the crank arm. By the way, the wrench on the nut isn't necessary to push the crankarm off, but it usually is necessary to take the crankarm puller off the crankarm.

Good luck.

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Ben Cline


Better to aspire to Greatness and fail, than to not challenge one's self at all, and succeed.