I do agree that Ekar can make tt 1x setup more doable. The gear ratio range is amazing. 9-36 cassette combined with 44 can make All rounder.
I do hope that Campy make TT style bar-end shifter for Ekar.

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I suspect that may not be in the cards, but really don't know for sure. The group is positioned as a gravel group and I have no idea how many TTers or triathletes will be interested in the group. The other big question for TT is whether the smaller cogs add more drivetrain friction than is gained in aero by losing the front derailleur and second chainring. I don't think the extra friction is as big a deal for gravel riding as it is for TT/tri.

For gravel training, maybe not.

But for gravel racing, extra friction is as unwanted as it is for triathlon. This idea of ultra small cogs combined with small chainrings all just to get rid of the FD is really a bit odd to me ...

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Well, I don't have 1 X on any of my bikes... for now at least. But 1X does simplify shifting and potentially reduces the likelihood of chain drops, I can understand the appeal. While you're right that extra friction is a concern for gravel racing, I wonder even for racing how much of the time is going to be spent on the two or three smallest cogs, after all speeds are lower on gravel than on the road. Those smallest cogs are mostly going to be used on downhill sections where I would think aerodynamic considerations would greatly override any drivetrain friction concerns. But it's an interesting question...

I am not on 1x either.

But regarding chain drops, the most interesting thing about dropped chains is that when one reads about dropped chains during rides or races, it seems that 99% of them happen to riders on 1x. A FD is actually a fantastic chain guide. If one adjusts the FD properly, you never have a dropped chain ...

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Also, when you say it 'simplifies the shifting', is 2x 11 shifting too complicated for most riders?

The world is full of mysteries.

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I'm not the one riding 1X so it's not me you need to convince... certainly from a mechanical standpoint 1X is much simpler and I see lots of dropped chains on 2x systems, on one of my rides recently a rider totally trashed his small chainring from a drop and I had to splice his chain back together to get him home on just the big ring. Theoretically drops on 1X should be quite fixable but would like to hear from those running those systems.

I understand, and l am just asking in general. When a system needs to be simplified, it is usually because it is far too complicated. And, for mechanical drivetrains at least, FDs are remarkably simple, way simpler than most RDs. FDs also provide nice redundancy if one's RD fails.

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I can ride back on almost any dropped chain on a 2X.....in fact I've reached down before, while riding, to remount a chain drop to the outside. With 1X this is almost impossible as the cage is so long and has enough tension on it to likely cause you to crash if you tried to reach down and remount the chain manually. Not to mention you're likely to be on rough roads where taking one hand off the bar and leaning over the drive side of your bike is likely to lead to disaster regardless of cage tension.

So, chain drops on 1X are a sure fire way to get dropped in a race where 2X might not even require chasing back on. I should note I am a 1X convert for both gravel and Time Trial and have been for several years. I still use 2X on both my road bikes, but that is mostly due to not wanting to fix what isn't broke.....er, being too cheap to "upgrade".

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While intriguing, I find 1x10 plenty for my gravel rig. If doing a lot of longer, steeper stuff I tend to run a 40T elliptical ring with a 11-36. Not much I am unable to comfortably climb with that setup. It should be noted, though, that I run 2.1" tires which allows me to stand and still have traction on all but the loosest of surfaces. For commuting I use a 42T elliptical with the same rear cluster as I need more top-end speed. It also should be said I like to grind, hate to spin, don't weigh squat, and tend to not see long stuff >25%.

The mechanical at launch is nice. Not too happy SRAM has omitted Mech from their 12spd catalog, but again I don't think I would switch even if they did have it. The one bike I might put this on is my lightweight "climbing" road bike. I like the simple and clean look of 1X, but 13-spd just sounds wrong.

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I've been eagerly awaiting this group. The gear jumps on the 9-36 looks great.

I've been on the 11s e*thirteen 9-34 cassette on my road bike and like it, though the jump from 9 to 11 is too big. I run a 44t up front and do super steep grades no problem, but 44x9t is not big enough at times. I was on 2x Duraace Di2 prior and have to say I really don't like double tap, but am fine with shimano/campy mechanical.

I've been on 1x 11s on my TT bike since 2015 with 50x and often 11-28 on race day, though I have larger cassettes for different courses/training days. Ekar is really appealing, especially if you set it up so that you really only use the 11-31 cogs, but have the 9, 10 and 36 cogs when things get steep down or up, that way you don't experience friction issues, but have those gears when need be, but otherwise have tight gear jumps.

The one issue I see is Campy probably not releasing a 13s TT shifter. I have a RTC direct-mount SRAM TT shifter that I really like and I'm not sure if that shifter can be hacked in the same way bikerumor recently reported Force 1x 11s road shifters can be updated to shift 13 speeds (to use with Rotor cassettes).

It's hard to not go electronic on a TT set up with the simplicity and low profile of current electric TT shifters.... but this Campy group is appealing

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Thinking about it, this would a great use of that Xshifter: https://bikerumor.com/...niaturizes-shifters/

Not sure if it can handle 13s, but I don't see why not. Thing is, their site is no longer up, but their kickstarter campaign is still going: https://www.kickstarter.com/...l-wireless-smart-shi

I may seriously consider this option if Xshifter is still selling product, as this looks like it could be lighter than SRAM AXS Red 1x 10-33 with better range and waaaayyyy ligher than AXS Force with that new tank of a 10-36 cassette....

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Sure, it's a first world problem. However, on a 2x, you might have some additional cognitive load. You might think about when in the climb you want to change rings. You do want to ease up when shifting the front if you can. Both are not that hard, but when you need to do them, you may be at full gas and you may also be bouncing around.

Going through the cyclocross races I've done, I usually had 48/38 or a 46/36 rings. And come to think of it, I was rarely in the big ring. On the road, sure, I'm mainly in the big ring and I shift to the small one on climbs. On cross, the speeds are such that if I tried to mainly stay in the big ring, I think I'd have to shift quite frequently. Oh, and small ring and small cogs are actually quite bad for drivetrain friction as well. I'm starting to think that in CX, the case for 1x is actually pretty strong.

Otherwise, I'm with you, I don't think that 2x11 or 12 is too complicated for me. I like having my little gears. I like that the overall drivetrain friction is lower.

Back to Ekar - I'm philosophically not liking the 9t small cogs. If I were buying a bike with this, I suspect I'd like a 42t up front, 10-44 at the rear.

For me, I have only ever dropped a chain in a 2x when using FD. Perhaps it was set up wrong, but that’s my experience. 1x simplifies for me to never have to worry about using FD. It also saves money. Based on my current fitness, I just seem to find myself at the bottom of one/top of the other chainring. Of course, I realize I could buy different size rings/cogs. But, really, unless you live in the mountains, which I do not, is someone really going g to try to make the argument that 12 gears—yes, 12! is not enough options for bike riding (at a non-pro level) at various speeds on various terrains.

The only bike I consistently had chain drop problems with was when I was riding a 1X. So, I'm with you, I'll take the front derailler all day long as the best chain guide I have found.

It’s still out there and they’re on version 3 or 4 but they changed the name and now I can’t remember it!!!

Look, you don’t get it. 1x is SOOO SIMPLE. I’ve been an avid road cyclist for 25 years, and like all avid road cyclists, I look at my bike every day and say “I wish this weren’t so complex. Front chainring shifting is just so difficult to wrap my mind around!” ... I don’t want to hear your fancy pants arguments about extra drivetrain friction, bigger gear shifts, or added chain drops, I’m just happy with SIMPLICITY. Note: my preference for simplicity does not extend to brakes, where I obviously prefer hydraulic disc brakes. I have delicate hands and they get tired sometimes.

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Well done.

Its all about that 'simplicity' ...

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I am going to guess that the number of gravel racers that worry about drivetrain friction is pretty low. I think the marginal gains approach to riding would kind of "harsh the gravel buzz". Now when everyone is on an Exploro and you see these guys coming to races with boutique titanium chain lube applicators so they can quickly add a shot of the CeramicSpeed lube while they grab water in the middle of a 100 miles race, you will know they care about the little stuff. Until then, it will just be me (I did make the titanium chain applicator up for dramatic effect but I certainly would consider a mid-race chain lube).

After going 1x, I can't imagine going back to 2x. Just so much easier. I have had fewer mechanicals and easier riding and this is coming from someone who has gone 2x5 to 2x6, 3x5, 3x6, 2x7, 3x8, 3x9, 2x10, 2x11 and now 1x12. 1x12 is simply better. I'll happily go 1x13 if and when it is functional.

This is good to know. Like you, l too started on 2x5 (now my bikes are 2x10 and 2x11).

But when you say that 1x12 or 1x13 is "better", can you be more specific? How exactly is it better? Is it better enough (vs, say, 2x11) to give up extra watts in drivetrain friction?

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1. less thought process especially in a tough technical section
2. zero dropped chains on TT, Cross, gravel, MTB in three years on 1x, a few including a dropped chain bad enough to remove a crank arm three times on 2x during that time. Sure, someone will say they aren't set up right. Things can only be so good. Fine for 9 months then a random bad dropped chain. Never lost a 2x chain on my TT until during a race and it cost me a podium. No idea why it dropped. It hasn't in two years since.
3. less parts
4. I don't think the watts thing is real. I it really only seems to apply at the 11t and I only have a 10t on one other bike. With a 44t chainring, the front is still pretty efficient on my gravel bike and I still run a 54 on the tri bike.
5. The lost watts at 10 or 11t cog are probably offset by the time not spent soft pedalling a front ring change. Current 12s 1x stuff shift so well under power you don't really need to soft pedal anymore for a shift unlike waiting for a front change to occur

Totally want this on the new Ridley gravel bike. Was kind of hoping Campy would push an electronic version as well though.

This is (almost) exactly what I need for my new road/gravel bike (Exploro)!
only 2 major concerns

1) The 3 cassettes are too wide for my use-case, esp. for road-use; I'd like something like a 10-33T (10->17 straight then with increasing increments from there!), with a 42 or 44T front, this would surpass a 53x39 12-28 range which is sufficient for even very long steep climbs and faster grouprides
2) no crank power-meter option available