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Campact vs standard cranks
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Okay, I am trying to look at maybe buying a terminator bike. But, they only offer the rear gear in a 12-23, not an option for 12-27.

But, they do have an option for a compact crank. So, here is the note I sent off to Tom. Looking for folks inputs on compact vs regular cranks.

On the low end, either terminator option is better than today. But on the high end, and I have lots of hills, the 39/23 will not cut it. The 34/23 is a little better than what I mainly use. I very seldom get into the 29 gear.



Thanks for your opinions.





Okay, let me see if I have this correct.

On the terminator, you offer two FSA crank options. One is 53/39, the other is a compact 50/34.

Now, what are the pro and cons for the regular cranks vs compact?



Now, let me see if I get the gearing correctly. Today, I have a 53/39 and 13-29.

So, here are the gear comparisons I think if I got this correctly.





Today

53/39 and 13-29

low 53/13 = 4.076

high general use 39/26=1.5

Highest 39/29=1.344



Teminator standard crank

53/39 and 12-23

low 53/12=4.417

high 39/23=1.695



Terminator compact cranks

50/34 and 12-23

low 50/12=4.166

high 34/23=1.478



Is the above correct.



So, on the low side, either of the terminator options are better than I have today, and I do run out of gears.

On the high side, the compact is a little bitter than what I usually use.



So, since I ride in the hills and flats what is your opinion, would I be better to get the standard cranks and just buy a 12-27 gear,

or do the compact cranks give some real positive?



Thanks



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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I can't give you the numbers, but I have used both a 53/39 with 12-27 and a 50/34 with 11-23 extensively. I will tell you that after going compact I will likely not go back to 'standard'. I get better top end and bottom end in the gears and with the spacing set the way it is on a 11-23 all the gears in between are right where I feel they should be.

Some purists have an issue with compact thinking that the extra low end robs you of high end, which is not accurate. Ultimately, this choice should be made on appropriateness to the rider; so, if you are like me and there is no way or need to be running some monster 56 tooth big ring, go compact and enjoy the broader range and closer gear ratios. I found running the 12-27 53/39 combo that the middle gears felt far apart and I was often changing gears back and forth never finding one that felt good on the flats.

Going compact also gives you those gears that make you feel like your dancing up the steeps like Lance on a Col.

I personally use the FSA SLK Mega XO Compact. Couldn't be happier.

No body plans to fail...
ostomyathlete.com
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [ostomyathlete] [ In reply to ]
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Have you had any issues of the 50/34 spacing? Some say it does not shift smoothly.

And I would assume if I go with 200mm PC, that I should really be able to get some leverage on the 34/23.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Martin C] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks, pretty cool



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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Generally, the purpose of compact cranks is that they allow you to spin faster. If you are going to be riding 200's, you are not going to be doing any kind of spinning. The only place you might need that kind of leverage on a 34/23 is on a true hill-climb race. Other than for a race where you might actually struggle to drive a 34/23, racing with compacts and 200's is probably not the best combo. If you are even considering 200's, you should have enough strength that you don't need a compact.

"Non est ad astra mollis e terris via." - Seneca | rappstar.com | FB - Rappstar Racing | IG - @jordanrapp
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Rappstar] [ In reply to ]
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I am not strong.

I ride lots of hills.

I am old. :o)

Sure wish I could try 200's without having to buy them first. They work find on the trainer, but that is not real life with hills.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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How did you come to the 200/compact conclusion? It is just a very odd combo. That doesn't make it wrong, obviously, but it is odd. It isn't really so simple that longer cranks offer more leverage. I mean, in some sense, they do on a fundamental level, but I gues more I mean that more leverage doesn't automatically translate to more speed or an easier time of things. Especially on hills, you may struggle a great deal in a certain parts of the pedal stroke with cranks that long. Just something to consider.

"Non est ad astra mollis e terris via." - Seneca | rappstar.com | FB - Rappstar Racing | IG - @jordanrapp
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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Dave,

You can spin just fine with long cranks. When I went from 180s to 190s it took me a bit of time to get the spin back, but by duathlon nationals I averaged over 90 rmp with the 190s for 1:06. On my shorter races it was even higher. It may take you a while to develop the muscles to lift at that rpm, but it will come. If you have problems climbing then you will like the 34/23.

Chad
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Rappstar] [ In reply to ]
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Lets see. If I buy the terminator, I get two choices on front cranks. Either 53/39 or 50/34. The back is always 12-23. I know for the hilly races where I live, the 39/23 will not work. I have been using a 39/29 going up the donner hill. A 34/23 is close, 1.344 vs 1.478. So, do I use the 53/39 and just buy a rear 12-27, or go the compact route. I only have two choices.

And totally independent of this, using the formulas, my inseam gives me a 200mm crank arm. And, there is no way to try this w/o buying. :o(



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [cdw] [ In reply to ]
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Chad, thanks for input from someone who is using the longer cranks.

The whole reason to get started early in the off season was to get used to all these changes. Having to return the velotron and PC's sets me back quite a bit. Trying to quickly recover so I can get back to training and making the changes.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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My inseam recommends a 210, I believe. I ride 175's. I've thought about trying 180's, but nothing longer than that. And I'd only go to 180's if I planned on lowering my cadence. Some people have made the switch to the super-long cranks with success. But most riders find success with regular 170-180mm cranks. The other thing to consider, selling 180's is much easier than selling 200's if you find that they are not right.

My suggestion -- buy a 12-27. Then you have that for hilly courses and the tighter gearing of a 12-23 for flat courses.

"Non est ad astra mollis e terris via." - Seneca | rappstar.com | FB - Rappstar Racing | IG - @jordanrapp
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Rappstar] [ In reply to ]
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Jordan, great inputs. Yes, resale is definitely a concern. Not sure how many folks would want 200.

So, what is your inseam? So, you have never tried longer cranks.

I guess having a 12-27 and longer cranks would allow me to keep the cadence up.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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37~ish. 175's work fine. I've pondered 180's, but I've got other things that I'd rather buy for now. And I've got an DA-10 SRM, so it would be no small decision to change.

Shorter cranks allow you to ride a higher cadence. That is the general rule of thumb. I usually race my 1/2-IM's at an average (which includes periods of no-pedaling) in the mid-90's for cadence (if the terrain allows it).

"Non est ad astra mollis e terris via." - Seneca | rappstar.com | FB - Rappstar Racing | IG - @jordanrapp
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Rappstar] [ In reply to ]
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Yep, we are the same leg length.

I guess the way I am thinking about it, for all the time and effect one spends in this sports, if us tall folks can use this to our advantage with better equipment, I will find a way to get the money. Guess I may end up being another experiment with this.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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In Reply To:
Have you had any issues of the 50/34 spacing? Some say it does not shift smoothly.

And I would assume if I go with 200mm PC, that I should really be able to get some leverage on the 34/23.



Dave


The 50/34 shifts perfectly.

Leverage on the crankarms won't help you if you're in the wrong gear. You still have to make circles with them. Don't buy PCs in a length you're not going to ride on your bike in races. Buy the same length.

I have a rough idea of your bike power range. Get the compact, and eventually get around to buying a 12-25/27. I'm not putting you down -- that's what I ride and I think we're pretty similar. I rode 5:37 at Davis with a compact front setup and my everyday 12-25 cassette. I rode the same setup to a 2:42 at Ralphs, and to a 1:06 in an Oly race. It's a gearing setup suitable for an extremely wide range of courses for somebody that races in the 150-225 watt range (depending on race distance).
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Ashburn] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks for the inputs. Hye, I need all the help I can get. Wish I could do an under 6 hour bike on the IM. Next year I hope:o)

I guess the 34/27 1.259 would really be a positive with longer cranks if I have yet to build up the strength. Boy would that spin.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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Hello, I guess I'm missing something. Surely Titanflex will put whatever cassette size on you want. Just because it comes with a 11-23 or whatever doesn't mean it can't be changed.



Styrrell
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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [smtyrrell99] [ In reply to ]
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Yes, took me a while to figure out this one. On the terminator model, Tom has a contract with folks that determine what and what can not be changed. As, the read cassette is one item of many that can not be changed. Now, if I build my own with the TF frame, yes, I can do what ever I want.



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [Martin C] [ In reply to ]
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Yep, thats my current thought



Dave

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Re: Campact vs standard cranks [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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In Reply To:
Yep, thats my current thought



Dave


But still get the compact -- you won't ever regret it.
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