Is there the fixed stem for the Bayonet 2? If so that would work great for you. No spline and it screws right into the top of the fork. I got one a few years ago for my DA and it is way better. No creaking and looks much cleaner. I was thinking of going wit a new fork so I could run a standard stem but with a 1 inch steerer it is very hard to find a good aero fork.

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Looking at the Bayonet 3 manual there is a thread on nut to some kind of normal seeming stem diameter clamping surface. It looks I could perhaps buy a couple of those parts and then run an Aeria clamped to that part.

I'll keep thinking.

I could ditch the top "steering adjust" shim nut stuff and use the big 6mm threaded hole. Buy some 1 1/8" metal round stock and play around with it.

When I went with the fixed position stem it was so nice and easy. 2 long bolts to connect to fork then the one screw to tighten stem around the tube. All of my other parts are now buried in a box somewhere because I have had no issues with it and only mess around with it for cleaning. So if you can get a fixed stem that is probably the easiest way to clean up the cockpit.

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On a Bayonet 3 you could not put any type of stem on the "thread on nut."

It is the preload adjustment held in place by the stem that is bolted onto the fork.

I looked into this more, and you're right. I couldn't do that.

Looking at the Bayonet 3 one piece stem system, that would work but the height of those little steps between the fore/aft mount points there wouldn't really match up to my old Felt DA.

So, that appears to leave me with fabrication of a bracket to replace the spline assembly. Basically a 1 1/8" cylinder on a base plate. The new assembly bolted down using the original three M6 mounting points.

I'll think some more. I like the bike overall enough I don't have the money to go to a "newer age" frame.

It's a minor point, but seeing that area on the bike just makes me cringe when the rest is all the best tricks like the Tririg brake, PDQ bars, 1x, etc...

First attempt at making the bracket was a failure. I transferred the hole locations poorly. I wanted to save as much material as possible in strength so chose to start again instead of increasing sizes or rounding things out. That's why I bought an 18" long bar to work with!

Second attempt is going better. I have the three mounting holes transferred and countersunk and test mounted the full bar without cutting that yet. I have the mount point for the stem "rod" started. For that I went with a really big fastener. I don't have a bit big enough to countersink that so will need to shave about a mm off the countsunk head on the outside of the fastener. The size of the bar and fasteners are total overkill, but, that's a good think in this area!

Next step is to setup the mounting rod for the stem to clamp to. Once that's good, I'll work on cutting the mounting plate from the large bar and rounding off things nicely.

The extra thickness of the mounting plate versus the original hollow alum spline assembly is reassuring even with the fastener holes. As that piece also had the same size mounting holes obviously.

It's looking that this will work for sure. I just need to measure thrice and cut once to keep it clean and solid.

Overall due to the drop in stack on that Aeria Ultimate stem, plus the extra stack up in the thicker mounting plate.........it'll come out to lowering stack by about 1/4". That's fine. I have more stack spacers for the base bar risers.

Pictures?

Probably tonight. Needs a bit of polish and finishing up first so it makes more sense what folks are looking at.

Idea came courtesy of a UK-TT forum member! Good stuff over there.

jaretj wrote:

Pictures?

It took a good bit of work last night to finish, but ask and ye shall receive...........

It dropped the stack probably a good 3/4 to inch, but I have plenty of risers to play with for later. I'll ride it as-is to test it out and get new fit video taken of the stack. Reach is identical (barring stack change) due to fact I designed it to mount so the reach wouldn't change. This is the 70mm Aeria Ultimate. It fit without modification to the "PDQ" style open mold TT bars from Selcof/PlanetX.

Oh, important. If you do this yourself be sure to drill a tiny dowel hole thru it all and drive in a hardened pin to not have the shaft rotate off the fastener. Or have it welded.