whatever the industry tells you - it's not about the frame.
get 25-28mm wide tires (6-7 bar max pressure), shallow rims (32-36 spokes) and two bar tapes.
learn how to ride a racebike actively (not kidding).

if you still think it's the frame (or fork!), look for touring style titaniums like litespeed, merlin etc.
but you want a racebike, right?

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CAMPAGNOLO GRAN FONDO NEW YORK

I switched from a caad8 to a six13 and it is smoother. That said, I'm trying to switch back to a system6 for the added front end stiffness. I can actually flex the front end of the six13 so much that the brake will rub the wheel.

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"Oh you hate your job? There's a support group for that, it's called EVERYBODY and they meet at the bar."

Thanks for the input. I am looking to upgrade my bike either way, and yes I'd be more inclined to buy a "racebike".

Can someone explain to me how to "actively" ride a racebike? I have no idea what that means!?!?

Sonny

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"The faster you get, the harder it is to get faster."

That's interesting...just the type of input I'm looking for. I have a Slice Six 13 but have never had that problem, but then again I'm not throwing down big power either :-)

Sonny

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"The faster you get, the harder it is to get faster."

Hi...each person speaks from experiences, so I am sure and I know each bike brand/manufacturer has a bike that probably fits the bill, but you may also consider the new Look 586 (integrated seatposts). I purchased the Look 586 and the reason I think it's worth considering for what you are asking of a bike, is that the seatpost/mast comes with 3 levels of elastomers that go in the post (they are also acting as spacers), which allows the level of "road feel" to be controlled. The 586 is the lighter, yet less stiff frame of the new Look frames (so sprinters may go to the 595, which is stiffened at the bottom bracket and other areas, weighs a little more, but won't flex under massive power surges...which "ain't me"). Just something to consider within the great choices others have offered since you have a built in dampening system within the seatpost area. Good luck!

Also...I agree with the person that mentioned tire pressure as a savior. I have my entire team running their 130psi tires at just over 100psi...I've read some pretty conclusive studies that show it is actually faster than higher pressure depending on how "smooth" the roads are you frequent (kind of like a suspension bike can go over rough terrain faster than a non-suspension because energy isn't lost in the up/down/bounce...same with tires). Obviously it makes the ride smoother also.

What about the Felt Z1 frameset? It is the "relaxed racing geometry" that doesn't make you spen hours in a really agressive position. I am thinking of repalcing my Look 585 with one.

Bob

   
You have to seiously consider the Specialized Roubaix - that's exactly the type of riding its designed for. Great bike.
http://www.specialized.com/...baix&language=US

Titanflex Transition

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Formerly DrD

+1000. If you like your bike, then keep it. Buy some ultegra/open pro 3x wheels and the widest tires that will fit in your frame. Run the tires at a relatively lower pressure. Hell, just start with the tires and go from there. You have a very stiff frame. What kinid of wheels are you currently on?

If it is a really nice frame that you're indeed looking for, you've ID'd some great alternatives. Like another poster, however, I'd recommend that you add the Specialized Roubaix to your list. I bought one for the same reasons that you cited, and it has excelled under rough road conditions.

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BH

"No reserves, no retreat, no regrets..." William Borden

TitanFlex or SoftRide.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

don't just sit there and wait for things to happen. you need good core muscles. your arms and legs are your suspension. have less bodyweight on your saddle (either look for greater seat to bar ratio or move your body into a more sporty position).
read the terrain in advance and act accordingly.

tire pressure again: pro cyclists ride 100 psi back/95 front in many races because not becoming too tired from the pounding outweighs the slightly higher resistence. it is a common mistake among mere mortals to just pump the tires up to the max shown on the label until the wheel is "dead" and bounces instead of smoothing.

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CAMPAGNOLO GRAN FONDO NEW YORK

CAAD8 is perfectly capable of racing. Mario Cipollini won many of his races while with Saeco on CAAD aluminum frames. The comfort issue will be greatly improved with a little larger tire and slightly lower psi.

I ride the parkway too every weekend (as it's about 2 miles from my house). I've been considering heading up to Jamestown and doing the new Patriots Half route instead but maybe I'll try a new set of tires per some of the recommendations and see how that goes.

I always figured the Parkway added a ton of rolling resistance and would make me feel faster on race day. Turns out I'm still slow :)

I ride a 2007 Specialized Roubaix Expert and agree that on rough roads its the best as far as vertical compliance. I live on the Mississippi gulfcoast and since Katrina I would have to say we now give Louisana a run for there money on the the "worst roads in the US"
Robert Driskell

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Robert Driskell
Certified Master Body Geometry fit Technician
Certified Master Retul Fit Technician
Zipp Service Course Specialist
Bikes Plus Pensacola Florida

Thanks for the input guys...it really helps!!

What do you think of titanium frames?? Are they more forgiving that Carbon??

Thanks again,
Sonny

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"The faster you get, the harder it is to get faster."

I agree with Uli on frame materials not making much of a difference, but if you want more of an explanation try Sheldon Brown:
http://www.sheldonbrown.com/frame-materials.html

The article is probably a little dated, like when he talks about carbon still being a little unproven, but his points are still worth listening to.

Buy a CX bike and two sets of wheels. One with 35 tires and 32 spokes for smoothing things out. One set of wheels with aero rims and bladed spokes and smaller higher pressure tires. You will be every bit as fast as any other bike out there but tons of comfort and flexibility.

t

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My Blog:
http://www.staggerforwardrejoicing.com
Ultrarunning & Parenting: There is no finish line.

titanflex for sure-better than my Serotta Ottrott ST's and Serotta Meivici which are the next best and WAY more expensive.The frame DOES matter and a suspension such as the Titanflex really enhances comfort on long rides over rougher surfaces,The Titanflex is the best value out there and unlike the Softride Rocket and FASST which fall apart it will last forever,

I'm a big fan of Cannondale road bikes. I race a SystemSix and my wife races a CAAD8 (she's won 8 races in 2008 on that bike, thank you very much!). That said the SystemSix would be the first bike I would immediately eliminate from a "comfort" decision. It is specifically designed to be as stiff as possible. It is a wonderful crit bike and a great bike for sprinting and those attributes are the exact opposite of what you want for comfort.

That said, you'll find more variation in comfort by changing tires, tire pressure, and saddles than you will find in different "race" bike frames.

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Justin in Austin, get it? :)

Cool races:
- Redman
- Desoto American Triple T

I can't believe the Cervelo RS hasn't been mentioned yet. R3 performance, comfort and weight with a more relaxed geometry.

BTW, I ride a custom TI (Everti) which I wouldn't trade for anything.

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http://www.speedtheory.ca

how about a pegoretti steel bike???

GEt a Titan-Flex. Your butt won't know that it's not smooth pavement.
My Pro2Race are pretty smooth and run at lower pressure than most.

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Dick

Take everything I say with a grain of salt. I know nothing.

If you like Titanium, I'd give the Litespeed Siena a look. My previous three road bikes were Cannondales. About 1.5 years ago I decided I wanted to try something new and that I wanted a good durable all around bike. I was looking for something I could do long training rides, fast group rides, centuries, the occasional road race, etc.

At some point I pretty much made my mind up that I would get a Soloist Carbon. Luckily the shop I bought from had Litespeed and Cervelo in stock and I spent a good amount of time going back and forth between a Carbon Soloist, an Aluminum Soloist and the Litespeed. When all was said and done, although I loved the Cervelo, I felt the LS had the best ride quality and would be the best all around bike for me.

The Siena has been good to me, I've done a lot of solo miles on it. I've done at least 10 road races and two hill climb TTs. Plus the beauty of Ti is that it looks about as good today as the day I brought it home.

I agree with the others that the frame is only part of the equation and that fit, saddle, tires, etc. all make as much difference. With that being said, anyone that has ever owned a CAAD 3 or CAAD 5 Cannondale can attest to the frame impacting ride quality. My previous road bike was a CAAD 5 Cannondale R3000si with full Dura Ace Group. I rode it with the same Michellin Pro Race tires I still use at the same pressure (110-120). All I can say is that the Litespeed is a much smoother more enjoyable bike to ride.