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Another novice chain mechanic question
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In a previous post I asked some questions about chains, and received may helpful responses. Now one more.

Per advice, I bought a new Connex chain. In preparation for my first waxing exercise, I did the mineral spirit cleanse, did the degreaser, and did the acetone bath. I have the wax, the crock-pot, and I am ready to go. Except that the new chain is about 9 links too long. I looked at some You Tube videos on how to remove links without the fancy tool, but I am unsure if that is the right way to go. Advice?

My real question is this. When I line the Connex chain up with my old chain, the last link on the old chain is an inside link (where the speed link goes) and it does not line up with a similar inside link on the new chain. It lines up with an outside link. It appears that the links on the Connex are slightly shorter, so by the time both chains measure at the correct length, the original chain is half a link shorter. To get the speed link to work, the Connex chain will be either 1/2 link short, or 1/2 link long.
Does this matter?

Or should I pursue professional help.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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Use the fancy tool, there are pocket multi tools that have a chain breaker.

Also, don't base your chain on length, but on number of links.

An old worn out chain will be longer than a fresh chain due to wear in the pins etc. In fact the length discrepancy measured is a good way to check and see if your chain is worn out, chain checker tools are based on this.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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How old is your old chain?

The links are not shorter, it sounds like your old chain is really worn out and you'll be changing chainrings and cassette as well.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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A few things:

Did your old chain work fine? If yes, count the number of links on it and make sure the new Connex chain has exactly the same number of links, ignore the difference in length otherwise (the difference is due to the old chain wearing or "stretching")

Regarding shortening your Connex chain, you MUST do this with the proper chain tool. If you use some kind of jury-rigged method, most likely the new chain will fail at the worst possible time. This is kind of important, so if you are not completely confident in your abilities, for sure get professional help.

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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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OK, sounds like the real tool is the answer.

The original chain has only 500 miles on it, so I don't think it has stretched that much. The number of links make sense.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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If the old chain only has 500 miles on it, I would for sure save it, it probably has a lot of life left on it (like 98% left) on it so why toss it away...

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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [DarkSpeedWorks] [ In reply to ]
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I was planning on piggy-backing off another posters MO of having two chains, one waxed on the bike, and another waxed and ready to roll when it came time to switch.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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Bleucheese wrote:
OK, sounds like the real tool is the answer.

The original chain has only 500 miles on it, so I don't think it has stretched that much. The number of links make sense.

Only 500 miles? You're right, it's likely not stretched much.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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It's not just a matter of how old it is, but how it's been taken care of as well.

If it's legit half a link long, that's hella stretched out.

Take a tape measure to it, each link should be 1/2 inch.

Over 24 links or 12 inches, if you are off by 1/16th of an inch, it's replace / throw away

https://www.parktool.com/...a-chain-on-a-bicycle
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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I would be concerned however if the same number of chain links would not align when set side by side. The max for an old 10 speed chain was 1% stretch but newer chains should be changed a lesser % I think the balancing act is around 0.5% So if there are 130 links in your chain and you are out by the 1 link, ie 130 in both cases but the old chain is about 1 link longer that is roughly 0.75% stretch so may be too much or would need to be tossed per Park Tool.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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"My real question is this. When I line the Connex chain up with my old chain, the last link on the old chain is an inside link (where the speed link goes) and it does not line up with a similar inside link on the new chain. It lines up with an outside link. It appears that the links on the Connex are slightly shorter, so by the time both chains measure at the correct length, the original chain is half a link shorter. To get the speed link to work, the Connex chain will be either 1/2 link short, or 1/2 link long."


The Connex link is half a link.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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to state the obvious, the chains need to be straight when you are measuring them, and start at the same link.

I don't usually bother, I just trim to the appropriate length by measuring "on the bike". big/big - RD cage should be at about 45 degrees. double check in the small/small, the chain should have a little tension on it.

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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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Bleucheese wrote:
I was planning on piggy-backing off another posters MO of having two chains, one waxed on the bike, and another waxed and ready to roll when it came time to switch.

Good luck with that. That was my original plan as well when I started waxing my chains. Turns out it's never happened because I procrastinate too much and end up doing 2 chains at once.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [Bleucheese] [ In reply to ]
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I'd just resize it at this point anew, using the easy method of "Largest cog and Largest chainring" (bypassing RD) as per Park tool:

https://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help/chain-length-sizing


It has a paragraph that I think describes your problem:

"It can occur that, when we pull the lower section snug, an outer plate meets and outer plate. This cannot be the reference rivet because the chain cannot be joined here. Add one rivet. This becomes the reference rivet and from here we add two additional rivets, cut the chain with a chain tool, and the chain is sized."
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [JasoninHalifax] [ In reply to ]
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JasoninHalifax wrote:
to state the obvious, the chains need to be straight when you are measuring them, and start at the same link.
.

What I do to make sure I've got the chains straight is put a thin screw driver through the end link on both. Then hang vertical with the chains side by side.
Easy to see if the old chain is getting 'longer' (=worn) with the alignment of the links next to each other.
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Re: Another novice chain mechanic question [logella] [ In reply to ]
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logella wrote:
Bleucheese wrote:
I was planning on piggy-backing off another posters MO of having two chains, one waxed on the bike, and another waxed and ready to roll when it came time to switch.


Good luck with that. That was my original plan as well when I started waxing my chains. Turns out it's never happened because I procrastinate too much and end up doing 2 chains at once.

I have 2 chains. I wax them both, swap chains after around 300km, then when I have accumulated 300 km on the 2nd chain, wax them both again.

It takes about an hour for my crockpots to heat up(I use the 2 pot method), but waxing itself only takes about 10 minutes of my time. This is more efficient than waxing 1 chain after 300km.
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