AR sleuths! I'm building my AR1, can someone confirm if indeed the rear brake cable housing runs right through the frameset entirely from the bottom of the downtube where it inserts up through the top tube to an inline adjuster? I haven't seen this before, I was expecting internal stops. If so, any idea how much cable housing I need (approximately)?

Are the seatpost bolts 4mm? Seems like 4mm is too small and Im worried it's gonna strip. The shop I got it from says it's 4mm. The stem bolts are 4mm and they seem to fit on my allen wrenches fine.

Really considering the ar5 and installing the bontrager race lite aero (aluminum version) any reason why this wouldn't work? And do you have any idea what's the weight of the stock handlebar? Also, anything special I should know about getting my first carbon road bike after riding for years on a cheaper alloy one?

There is no reason that any 31.8 clamp diameter clip-on bar couldn't be used on the AR5. The stock handlebar is about 318g.
You should make yourself familiar with our carbon care guide included on our website and pay particular attention while fixing the bike to a car rack, repair stand or stationary trainer.

-SD

Can someone tell me where I can buy the 3T part to use a carbon oval rail saddle on my AR1? This was not something I was expecting to purchase.

http://www.bontrager.com/model/11292

but still it was more about cable routing, I'll let the shop deal with it anyway but... I wanted to know if there may be some issues with compatibility to the ar internal routing
Also, Bontrager really should work on making distinct names for different products...

Here is an image of my bike set up ... though the saddle is now about .5 cm farther back. The saddle is fairly centered on a 73.5 STA with zero degree post. Moving the clamp back 2.5 cm would not allow the saddle to fit on the bike ... moving the clamp 2.5 cm forward would not allow the saddle to fit on the bike.

If it did ... it would be at it's "Absolute" limit on the rails ... which if you look at a bike set up that way it means one of two things: 1) the bike fit is horrible or 2) you bought the wrong bike.

My knee sits just behind the pedal spindle with pedals level. The bars can actually be a bit lower, a -20 degree stem would fit better than the -17 I'm currently using. The bike set up is comfortable for 4+ hour rides, I can put out good power (FTP around 360 watts, 20 minute PR 393 watts) and have no ache's or pains while on the bike.

Basically ... I have a bike with the same STA as the new AR, a zero degree post and the saddle nearly in the middle of the rails for good fit. Moving the clamp forward or backward 2.5 cm would mess with my fit ... and thus "Not Fit".

This was in the other thread but I figured I'd post it here. Tames less than 15 minutes to convert from road to full tri using di2 with brake/shift module and aero bar shifters. Swap out saddle, bar/stem module and run brake cables through shimano in line brake quick release for rear brakes.

Went at the shop today to drop some parts for my ar5 ( tires and bottle cages). One of the guy there was like : hey remember how I told you it could take up to 15 days? I was wrong, it's here already! I'll build it up in the next one or two days when I'll have the time!

Got a little look at the frame set and it is looking beautiful!!
Can't wait at all now. It's just pure torture!

@ron burgundy

One of the things I like about the ar was it was not twitchy. I had a felt da before and that felt more twitchy. I guess the da had a short head tube and that made it more aggressive. I don't usually ride tt so this bike was perfect. I used it for a him and it was changed back after the race. One thing is the at is a very comfortable bike in both road and tt mode. I'm not very flexible and had a -17 stem for the race. It was pushing my limits. I may use a standard +-6 next time as pictured. All in all the di2 is perfect setup for this type of thing