I use the same stand that Dave recommends (Feedback Sports) and as you can see in my pic above, I generally clamp the top tube with a microfiber to further soften and protect at the natural center of balance so I don't need nearly as much tension on the clamp.

The top tube does not have a constant cross section anywhere along the length of the tube. Follow the warning decal instruction on the frame, do not clamp the frame in a stand with the top tube as the clamping jaws will point-load the area of contact.

The AR and IA seatpost are unlike any seatpost made today. Every other design is designed to be held in place with a crush load from the outside of the post - just like a frame stand.
The AR and IA seatpost are designed with an "expansion" plate inside the post. The seatpost is not designed to be crushed - indeed closing the jaws of a repair stand overly firm can damage the seatpost or frame.

Holding the seatpost at the top where there is no split or using a front QR mounted stand is recommended to ensure a long life for the product.

-Dave

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I'll have to play around with the clamp to see how I can clamp up there hard enough to hold it in place. The rotational force when trying to clamp that high and that far back from the center of gravity is huge. In my pic above, the jaws aren't even tightened. But I can see the concerns re: point loading in the middle of any of the frame tubes.

If you were to build an AR1 frameset with 10 speed Di2, does the electrical wiring harness go into one of the holes in the down tube or can it still be routed behind the stem like an AR2 or AR FRD frame?

Dave,

Pleeeeeease the good news.

Are they shipping this week? Today even!?

Long have I been patient.

Thank you,

greg

Hey Dave, I know you commented on the aero differences between the AR1 and the Di2 version as to being around 6-7 watts. Now is that the frame itself or simply due to the cable routing? I.e. If I run the DT port covers will the mechanical frame be as fast as the non-mechanical frame?

Luis

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Greg,
Yes, yes.
Thanks for your patience,
-SD

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Hi Dave,

Have there been issues with the inserts for the seat post falling out? They seem to pop in and out easily, and we had one customer loose a set already.

Well, I already crashed mine. :)

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CC5u1qW1blc

You'll see me at around the 40s mark. My teammate got the worst of it after someone hit him after he was down.

Luis

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Absolutely not, they shouldn't move if installed correctly. They have a double lipped catch and plenty of contact. The low durometer makes them easy to seat and remove/install with your hands but they should never move on their own once installed.

-SD

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I am very interested in knowing this as well.

one down side I have noted with AR, and it is not having stock carbon pads for direct mount rear brakes :) set screw is not in standard place

Whatever you do, do NOT do this:

Leave them off.
Set screws are just safety devices, lawyer tabs for your brake caliper arms.

It would be unsafe for me to even suggest it.
Making brake pads with cartridge inserts without a set screw would be too risky.


-SD

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Looks like I found the answer:



I'm going to go out on a limb and say that most of those 8 watts are from the cables and their routing.

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Is it still possible to route electrical systems in the same manner as on the AR2 with an AR1 frame, or do those cables have to go thru the ports in the down tube?

You can route the same as the electronic only frame-sets. Then you can cover the DT cable ports with the provided block off plates. I was keen to get the AR1 over the FRD for the simple reason that I had options and could add Di2 when I was ready. The FRD would have been sweet and the price difference wasn't that much for me.

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I agree with you completely. Thanks for your response - once I can find one I will be getting one. And just like that 6 years of Cervelo loyalty will be broken....

jeffp

It's not hard to modify carbon pads to fit the new position of the safety screw on the direct mount brake. I did mine just with a sharp modeling knife. Just be careful not to take too much material at first, better to take small amounts away until the fit is correct. Dave is of course correct and it would be dangerous leaving them out, but they'll only stop the pad coming out the holder if the brakes are applied whilst traveling backwards which in itself doesn't happen very often.

You can use the OE pads as a guide in terms of where to remove the material.

 

>It would be unsafe for me to even suggest it.

n=1, I've had a pad come out mid-ride while not using set screws. Maybe I hadn't fully seated it. But I'm pretty sure I had. And even if I hadn't, I'd have thought that normal braking would have seated it pretty quickly anyway. In my experience pad tolerances can vary pretty significantly. Some, like stock Shimano, fit snug. Others are kinda loose.

This was on a DA-7900 brake, with pads that came with an Enve wheelset I was borrowing.

Yes, the AR1 (and AR3 RED and AR4 and AR5) comes with the cable guides needed to route the electronic systems (Di2 e-tube, Di2 Gen2, and EPS) through the top tube omitting the need for the downtube cable guides and their holes. The DA mechanical shifting top tube cable plug is needed for hydraulic shift systems and is not included with any of the ARs currently.

-SD

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You didn't mention it, so I will ask: will it work with 10 speed Dura-Ace Di2?

Yes, the Dura-Ace Di2 7970 (2nd generation "hard" wired harnesses) will fit. We designed the frame so it could be used for any future customer service, crash replacement, or VIP/Ambassador tradeups of previous generation AR1 owners. There is an external battery mount for the 7970 group on the bottom of the downtube (not seat stays like our other road models) as well as intake and outlet ports large enough for the 7.4mm 5 pin plugs instead of the much smaller cambus coax e-tube plugs.

The "biggest" electronic system is Campagnolo EPS with the nearly 8mm plugs and larger 3.4mm rear derailleur wire and oversize "juntion B/brain/power unit".
If a bike works with EPS there's a 99% certainty it'll fit 7970.

-SD

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oh, i used a drill bit to take material out. simply inserted pad into holder and turned set screw to mark spot, removed, drilled out a little bit checked and all good. i was caugfht off guard initially as i did not think to check that when installing them

So the ar frd di2 comes with firecrest 404s

What pads does it come with.

Am I missing something?

Shimano Dura-Ace brakes have the option at the OEM level to include their latest carbon brake pads: R55C4-1 for wide carbon rims.

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