You might want to post a video of you riding the bike on a trainer to see if your position can be improved.

If you'd stored it in a waterproof, dark place, should be mostly fine, no need to spend crazy money to replace stuff. Personally, I'd send it to a bike machanic for a full look over. unscrew all the bolts and check them for any corrosion that may have seized them, same with nipples, change the cables (after eight years they may be stretched or simply not as smooth anymore). The grease in your bearings might have dried out, as would have any carbon assembly paste and teflon grease. So it would generally be a good idea to go through all this just to make sure everything runs fine down the road.

Welcome back to the sport.

If you can then I'd get new tubes and tyres. They should be OK after 5 years, but equally rubber does perish and that's something you don't want to blow out on you.

Equally, the brakes are the other thing that's life critical, but unless the outer cable somehow had water in it as your bike went into storage, then the inners shouldn't have rusted. If you can yank the brakes hard and then close, then open again, chances are you'll be fine.

Of more concern is the shifter cables. If you left it in a cross chain inner ring/small cog then there wouldn't have been tension so do some up and down shifts and if it works, sweet. If on the other hand it doesn't then see if the shifting is still fine. If it is you are away. If on the other hand the shifting starts making a noise and switching between cogs then get new inner cables (don't adjust the limit screws / cable tension - stuffs stretched over time and just replace the inners.

Saddle (unlikely)/bar tape (likely)may have started to flake. If they have, then you know what needs replacing there....

Your biggest issue is likely to be if you did want to swap stuff then pedals, bottom brackets , etc may have seized.

Headline, test the brakes whilst stationary. If they are ok, then have a test ride. If everything works, then enjoy yourself, bikes are simple things*, it's not like a car where you would be thinking oil, hydraulic fluid, brake fluid changes, etc. Bikes almost exclusively work on tension - metal strands pulling something (gear cable, brake cable, chains, spokes, rims, half of the frame). The bits that aren't in tension are in compression and in that case are mostly separated from the thing it touches which is also in compression by ball bearings.


*2012 bikes are / were simple things. Todays DI2/hydraulic braked things are less straightforward unfortunately.

I would be concerned about spiders or earwigs in the stem or seatpost.

Other than that, tubes, bar tape, water bottles.

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Thanks all, I'm reaching out to my old fitter and got a bisaddle for the butt. I'm on new tires and tubes but the brakes are a great idea and an easy change.

I'll go over the bolts and replace any that look rusty and torque everything that I know the values for.

I'm updating the pedals to power pedals so that's new.

I'll pull the seat tube when I get fitted and look for stuff and hopefully that will cover everything.

See you'all at IMCalifornia with any luck.

Welcome back. Cool bike!

Duncan mentions brake cables, but new brake shoes are probably a good idea too.

Whilst I get where you're coming from, of my fleet of 10 bikes then I think all bar my current disc braked road bike have pads more than 5 years old, and my cyclocross pads are at least 15 years. Having said that, I accept that given they never really did anything to reduce speed when brand new, so there's no way I'd notice if they lost ability due to age ;-)