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.:: Dropping Drop Bars ::.
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I have a 2003 Specialized Allez road bike (58cm) that I will be using for my '04 tri season. It has sloping top tube geometry and the head tube is 19cm. I have already flipped the stem and removed two 1cm spacers from the headset. I have two more 2.5cm spacers to remove. Once all of the spacers are gone, I don't think that the drops will be usable for me. I plan to use Profile Jammer aerobars and swap out the drops with a Profile Airwing pursuit bar. Any words of wisdom on this upgrade?

Thanks,

-kb
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [MachV] [ In reply to ]
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If the drops won’t be usable because you can’t reach or feel uncomfortable then the handlebar is way tooooo low.



If the drops won’t be usable because o the type of racing you will be on to, then a pursuit bar is the best option. I think Francois Chabaud used, a few months back, the same combo that you want to use (pursuit bars and jammer gt) in a road geometry bike (before being sponsored by litespeed).



Sergio Marques

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S�rgio Marques
When it hurts is when it feels good ;-)
Sergio-Marques.com
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [sergio] [ In reply to ]
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No road racing at all. Just tri's and tri training rides. I just want to get the bars low enough (with the tall headtube) to get a good aero position.

-kbarber
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [MachV] [ In reply to ]
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The Jammer aero bars are really designed around the Big Slam position, so I don't exactly know why you are concerned with getting these so low. It seems to me it would create a pretty tight angle at your hips, causing your knees to get close to your chest when you pedal. You can still use the Airwing bar or similar in the Big Slam position, just make sure the ends are where your hoods would normally be.

BTW, every time you lower the bar height, you are lengthening the reach. To make sure the bike fit stays consistent, you should move the seat forward and up every time you lower the bars.
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [JohnA] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks. If I knew what I was doing I wouldn't post here for advice :-). I have not purchased the the bars yet; I don't want to waste money if this isn't a workable idea. I may not need the bars as low as I think when I actually get the parts to work with. Maybe a better question is this: Is putting the Jammers on a pursuit bar on a road bike a dumb idea? (or maybe just not neccessary?). Would Aerolites be a better choice?

Thanks,

-kb
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [JohnA] [ In reply to ]
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"The Jammer aero bars are really designed around the Big Slam position"

i don't believe that's true. jammers are the correct length for a road position. john cobb used jammers as the basis for his big slam bar, and outfitted the jammers with visiontech armrests. but they're a good length for just plain ol' road angles.

one way to get the position lower without lowering the stem is to drop the armrests as low as possible. is the 1cm lift kit in the jammer GT bars already? take it out, that gets you closer to the goal. the jammer GT is a nice bar, and it's nice that they added the F22 armrest (or F19, whatever), but it would be nice if in its next iteration the armrest provided for a lower profile armrest.

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [MachV] [ In reply to ]
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Putting the aero bar is not stupid. Aero and power don't always mix. you can improve your aerodynamic position on your bike without killing your ability to produce top power maybe not as aero as you want, yet probably an improvement. By attempting to obtain the most aero position on your bike, you may find manuverabilty of your bike, is drastically reduced and power output is reduced. You have a nice bike it just has some limitations. Check out Dan's articles on Bike fit on this website also check out what John Cobb has to say these on his site.
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [MachV] [ In reply to ]
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go ahead and upgrade if you want, but remember that you will also need to get a shorter stem (2-3 cm) to compensate for the extra length of the pursuit bar. Otherwise you'll be putting a lot of weight over the front wheel, especially when you stand. I'm also assuming that your seat position isn't changing.

I wouldn't recommend using the Jammers with a pursuit bar, since you'll also need a shorter stem to compensate for the bar. The Jammers may not extend enough, particularly as you are on the tall side.



Are you switching to bar ends from STI's as well? If not, what i would do is:

1) keep the drop bars, lower the bar. The drops become unusable, but they aren't hurting you either. Reason is: cable routing with STI brake levers is a lot cleaner with a drop bar than with a pursuit bar, unless you start drilling things.

2) look for a shorty aero bar with a low pad height. The Jammer GT is no good for this, but Deda clip-ones will work well, you'll just need a tubing cutter. Or try the 3TTT clip ons (sub-8 or mini-sub8), they can also be adjusted to be quite close to the base bar. The Profile Carbon Strykes, and a few other models, can also be adjusted close, and have a lower pad height than the Jammer GT, but slightly higher than the 3ttt or Deda bars. By using a bar with a low height, then you can have the base bar a little higher, making the drops usable for descending.
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Re: .:: Dropping Drop Bars ::. [jasonk] [ In reply to ]
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If you mount the jammer gt below the base bar rather than on top, you are able to put the pads exactly at the same height of the handlebar.

The TTT bio arms with about half of the tubes thrown away, is widely used by ITU athletes. The mini sub8 have no adjustment other than the armrest placement, but both TTT have a very low pad height.



Sergio Marques

=====================================
S�rgio Marques
When it hurts is when it feels good ;-)
Sergio-Marques.com
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