What are your stack and reach numbers?

Good question. Can you link me to something that would help me figure that out?

Depending on how you answer the questions about fit, the Shiv Comp is an excellent value for the money. New overstock 2012's can be found at about $2700 or so.

Note that I already have race wheels. (60mm front, disc rear).

Assuming with 10% of MSRP (because if you just keep it open to anything then everyone will know of a deal that you probably can't get), the Specialized Shiv Comp, and 2013 Felt B12, are taller bikes; Cervelo P2/3 is a longer/lower; Quintana Roo Cd.01 is long/low. All of them are pretty good bikes in my opinion.

A Cervelo P2 and some hookers and blow.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

How about just hooker and blow?

I agree, I ride a Shiv and can't be happier. I have to say the bike fits me well (clearly may not be the same for you) and it's stiff enough for me that power transfer isn't an issue. Happy shopping :)

Everyone is going to try to say that their bike is the best. Which makes sense as they chose to ride their bike! Shiv here, and I love it.

But honestly the answer is to spend a couple hundred to get your stack and reach numbers on a fit bike from a fitter. Then come back here and we can give you a range of bikes that would work for your numbers. Then you see what you can afford from there and whether it's worth it to upgrade to the latest frame. Depending on stack and reach numbers, I would go with something like a P2/Shiv Comp/BMC TM02/Scott Plasma 30.

The P2 is a proven design, though several generations old, but can be had, especially used, for next to nothing. The Shiv Comp shares the exact frame shape as the best S-Works model you can buy, so it does make sense to get something like that as you can shop on a budget and still get bleeding edge aerodynamics, assuming you fit it. The BMC is a great bike, too. Aluminum, very close to the TM01's shape (though I believe the TM01's shape is supposed to be not great aerodynamically). The Scott Plasma 2 frame is a great value and faster than a P3 iirc. It's just that it only works for a small range of fit coordinates. But, I almost never see the non-premium Scott Plasma frame out at races or riding, which to me adds lots of value.

Not really a good question, no offense.

Best bang for buck is almost always in the entry-level frame class. These are the least sexiest of the bikes, and aren't the fastest, but for $650, you'll get a bike that's 99% as fast as a $5k Cervelo. And as good bang for buck these bikes, it's not likely a good choice for you as upgraditis is huge in cycling and you'll probably lust after a new bike the moment you buy a lower-end bike with your budget.

Forget bang for buck and just go for a bike that looks awesome to you (looks are huge, believe it or not), inspires you to ride. All the major manufacturers and now the minor ones are good enough that for an AGer they're essentially equivalent. (You're not going to be changing your race results by swapping TT bikes.)

FWIW - I've loved my Cervelo P2c from 2008 from the day I bought it and I still feel like it's a 'new' bike. Have not had any upgraditis. And am not lying when I say my $650 road bike that costs 4x less, is just as fast when I'm riding it.

Well maybe not everyone...

I'm certainly not going to say my bike is the best! I have a p3!

P2 is good because its great and you have money left over for hookers.

Then I would look at the trek 7, and shiv tri.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

first get a propper fitting. then go from there. i think cervelo p2 is a great bang for the buck.

I think that covers a night with Suzy Hamilton.

For my $3,000 when I spent it (over the last season) got a speed concept 7 series and upgraded the gruppo to SRAM Red and changed the cockpit to zipp/ritchey carbon and still came in well under $3,000.

I think people put way too much emphasis on getting fit first. Get the bike you want based on looks, feel and than get it fit. As long as you are close you can make anything work well.

Well, you do need to have a clue about the fit before you pick the *size*, and it is good to make sure. Some people are shaped funny and occasionally a given bike will be impossible to fit without introducing some sort of compromise.

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Kat Hunter reports on the San Dimas Stage Race from inside the GC winning team
Aeroweenie.com -Compendium of Aero Data and Knowledge
Freelance sports & outdoors writer Kathryn Hunter

"I think people put way too much emphasis on getting fit first. Get the bike you want based on looks, feel and than get it fit. "

Given the number of terrible positions and people you see sitting up on the hoods 10 miles into a race, I think a lot of people follow your plan.

I agree you need to have a clue but the idea you need a fitting to pick the right bike is crazy. Most bikes are adjustable to get you dialed in if you get the right size. So yes I agree you need an idea.

Typical condescending ass slow twitch remark. I rarely do a races where my bike split is not one of the better splits and I get a new bike every 1-2 years and than get fit based in my general serup. You need a basic idea but bike sizing is not like romance - you can have more than one soulmate in the bike world
I take the same approach in road racing and do well enough in the p12 fields.
Just my .02$

Fixed that for you.

:^)

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Advanced Aero TopTube Storage for Road, Gravel, & Tri...ZeroSlip & Direct-mount, made in the USA.
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+1 on the Shiv. Use the remaining $300 on a better wetsuit, aero helmet, or a downpayment on a powermeter.

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ECMGN Therapy Silicon Valley:
Depression, Neurocognitive problems, Dementias (Testing and Evaluation), Trauma and PTSD, Traumatic Brain Injury (TBI)

I agree and would also add that it seems like half the people that I see get a bike "fit" are in worse positions than they would be if they just took some video and did it themselves. There are far too many bike fit "experts" out there that seem to have no idea what they are doing. Anyway, my point is you can make most bikes to fit if you're close enough to start with. Most shops will tell you fit best on whatever bike they have in stock.

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Don't listen to anything you have read in this thread so far !

For $3,000 (plus shipping) I will sell you one , very used, 2007 entry level Fuji road bike. Size? Fit? It doesn't matter. This is the ride you have been looking for. Upgraded saddle ( I destroyed the original learning how to unclip from pedals when I bought my bike...fell right over) and new wheels (kinda cheap, but ugly). Well maintained and cleanish. I will even throw in the cheap wired bike computer that still works on 90% of my rides.

She has carried me on many a ride over 54 miles. A proven warrior at your race distance.

I will then take your $3,000 and get myself a beautiful new road bike.

Act fast, an offer like this wont last forever.