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"A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace
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I have my first full coming up and am doing everything possible to make sure it goes as planned. The last thing I want is a mechanical issue on the bike. I am going to take my bike in to the LBS to have them do a race prep on it to make sure everything is working properly but was wondering about replacing things to prevent a mechanical issues. I will have tires that will only have a couple hundred miles on them, thought about replacing the tubes (clinchers) a couple of weeks before, have heard horror stories about chains breaking.....should I be on the safe side and get a new chain? Any other pointers/tips/suggestions?

Thanks
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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Chain, cables. I always do new tires but yours sounds pretty new. I have a multi tool that I carry that has a chain tool on it.
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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chain, cables, and cable housing. I mention the housing because mine always look fine from the outside, but what I've noticed is where they connect to the frame, or where they insert into the frame (any place where the eye cannot see) they are a corroded mess from where my sweat or hydration mix has seeped in. It seems to collect at the ends of the housing and stay preserved by the frame. Past 2 times I've looked the housing is so frayed at the end I have no idea how I shifted. Tubes are a cheap fix that gives you peace of mind if tires are in good shape. Good luck



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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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A new cassette and chain. No need to replace your der/brake cables unless they are frayed. Clean and lube the drive train.

New tubes. Make sure you check the outside of the tire closely for any embedded materials. Take them off completely and look closely for anything that may be poking through. Normally, I'll always replace my tires before a race regardless of condition and put the old ones on my training wheels.
Last edited by: oceanlife: Sep 27, 13 3:39
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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Totally depends on the condition of the bike now... And how important the event is for you...
If you want total piece of mind, and if its been a season since it was stripped and rebuilt, the. A total tear down inspection (for wear damage And cracks) and rebuild would be smart.
I.e all bearings, cables inner and outer, pads, tyres, tubes, Chain, Free hub, cassette and rings, bar tape, every mating surface cleaned and prepped ie carbon paste etc...
All relevant fasteners loctited after assembly and torque checked...
And all dimensions confirmed to your fit spec sheet...

Then get at least 50kms on this to bed everything in working through gears and brakes etc.
Then re torque check everything afterwards.

Now show the same diligence to your shoes, spares kit and storage solutions on the bike...

Hope there's something in there that prevents you having an issue...
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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Not exactly a bike component but replace your cleats if they are really worn.

Other things: tires, tubes, brake pads. Clean the drivetrain and true the wheels too.
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [amaterasu] [ In reply to ]
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Do all major mainteance completed least 1 week before the event s oyou have a couple "shake down" rides. If something is off, it's going to be found early on. Be very, very observant. I think Murphy loves IM's. Seems like you could go 5000 miles or more all season without a mechanical and maybe one flat, and you go to a big event and BAM... you have issues.


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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [amaterasu] [ In reply to ]
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amaterasu wrote:
Not exactly a bike component but replace your cleats if they are really worn.

Terrible idea. Don't replace your cleats unless you are more than a month or two out from the race. You don't want to give yourself an injury because of a slight misalignment.
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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I'm going to go against the grain here and answer your question "what should I replace" and say: Nothing.

Just keep your bike in good shape all the time. Greg K put together a great bike maintenance schedule: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...e_Schedule_3877.html

Okay, if you're not on the schedule yet, then my answer is: ask the bike shop mechanic what needs replacing.

Cheers,

Damon Rinard
Engineering Manager,
CSG Road Engineering Department
Cannondale & GT Bicycles
(ex-Cervelo, ex-Trek, ex-Velomax, ex-Kestrel)
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [damon_rinard] [ In reply to ]
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damon_rinard wrote:
I'm going to go against the grain here and answer your question "what should I replace" and say: Nothing.

Just keep your bike in good shape all the time. Greg K put together a great bike maintenance schedule: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...e_Schedule_3877.html

Okay, if you're not on the schedule yet, then my answer is: ask the bike shop mechanic what needs replacing.

Cheers,

Gotta agree with Damon here.....especially if your bike is working well, overall. The ol' "If it ain't broke, don't fix it" mentality goes a long way here, IMO.

Look at it this way....if the bike is working well and there are no visible / noticeable issues (frayed cable ends, poor shifting / braking, etc) then anything you do now introduces a degree of uncertainty into the mix. I have seen new chains fail just as often as old chains (which, BTW, is pretty rare). Likewise, I have seen new tires / tubes flat on their maiden ride.

If everything is running well, get a basic tune-up 2 weeks out from your event to dial it in. That gives it time to "set" and ensure everything is still running okey-dokey. Replace / repair any major issues (frayed cables, worn tires, etc), but just because your "A" race is coming up doesn't mean your bike needs an overhaul.

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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [NeverEnough] [ In reply to ]
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1.) Check your tires the week before the race, deflate them, then go around the whole tire, pinching an inch of tire at a time and making sure you have no glass particles or other debris embedded in the tires. Pick out any glass or whatever that has stuck into the tire. If a cut is large, then maybe even consider changing the tire.

2.) Chains last about 4000 to 5000 miles. So if you are not close to that mileage, I wouldn't change the chain. Last thing you want is a new chain that may start skipping around on a worn cassette, or any number of other issues.

3.) Check to make sure carbon parts are bolted down securely enough. If the course is wet, the aerobars/seatpost could slip and really mess up your race. So have the bikeshop check the bolts and apply carbon paste where needed for that extra level of security.

4.) Check your computer and any magnet alignment etc. to make sure all that is working perfectly. Especially if you rely on power or cadence.

5.) Check both wheels and make sure they spin freely and have no major wobble to them. Then check both brakes. Squeese a bike lever fully and then with the brakes engaged, check each rim pad to make sure it is not close to rubbing against the tire sidewall. You wouldn't believe the number of people that don't check brake pad alignment, and then get a hole worn into their tire.
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [damon_rinard] [ In reply to ]
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damon_rinard wrote:
I'm going to go against the grain here and answer your question "what should I replace" and say: Nothing.

Just keep your bike in good shape all the time. Greg K put together a great bike maintenance schedule: http://www.slowtwitch.com/...e_Schedule_3877.html

Okay, if you're not on the schedule yet, then my answer is: ask the bike shop mechanic what needs replacing.

Cheers,

I agree with everything here. If you keep a proper maintenance schedule, you should be fine.
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Re: "A" Race Bike Checklist...what should I replace [JoshR] [ In reply to ]
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Rim tape. The most overlooked hidden problem. Over time, original rim tape slides to the side or gets pushed into the nipple holes by long-term high-pressure. When you change your tube, you'll feel around the inside of the tire, find nothing, attribute the flat to a pinch or a "bad tube," and rinse/repeat.

Check your rim tape.
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