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We made a mistake in here the other day. We sent a bike out with 1.8" of spacers under the stem (I wasn't here when it happened- damn it....). I spoke with the customer after he got his bike and we both questioned this. I asked him to return for a refit (I gave him some free stuff to compensate him for his time) and he is here now, with his bike i the stand. Here's the point: The Reynold's website states (in the technical installation manual PDF file) that the maximum amount of spacers is 1.5" between the top of the head tube/headset and the bottom of the stem. When I go to triathlons I see absurd amounts of headset spacers between the frame and the stem. We have a guy back in here, tearing his bike apart and rebuilding the front end, over 3 tenths of an inch: I see people with four inches of spacers. That is very unsafe and shoddy workmanship- according to the companies who make the parts. Technically this is wrong. USAT has minimal technical standards for bicycle safety that include things like plugged handlebars. I am against mandating or legislating safety and common sense but, come on people- we have to be responsible for our own equipment. If your bike has a ton of spacers under your stem and it "looks" a little odd ask questions. Get it fixed. There are alternatives if you need your bars high. Spacers stacked 3" high are not the way to go. It's unsafe.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
Tom:
I am going on memory, but isn't the Reynolds spec that says you are not to exceed one inch of spacers? I have a one inch steerer tube.
I have the printed PDF file installation manual in front of me from the Reynolds website. It says 1.5 inches.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
Is it better to have fewer spacers or is it just less noisy?I know this is a no no but I like the way it looks with a combo of black and your favorite carbon spacers.
Tom, haven't we also been told to use aluminum spacers vice the much more cool looking carbon spacers? I don't remember where I read that, probably on this forum, probably from you. Anyway, someone recs not using carbon spacers since they can compress. What's your take? How about if one only needs 1cm of spacer? Not much room for the carbon to compress there!
I've questioned people before about riding 2 and 3 inches of spacers. When you really look at what and how they're riding it becomes obvious that most of these people are riding the wrong bike, or at least the wrong size bike. They use a smaller size bike than they should because that particular bike has a long TT and they are too stretched out on the proper size in the aero position. Anyway, you can articulate this better than I can. Bottom line, they're often using those grand stacks of spacers to make up for poor bike choices.
Please keep in mind that this is just MY OPINION, no more. I do not prefer carbon spacers. I like nice qulaity aluminum ones.
Tom Demerly
The Tri Shop.com
This discussion has caused me to rethink my present set up. Last year in prep for IM Utah I was refitted by a well respected professional using a combination of PK, Serota, computrainer, video analysis etc... We determined I needed to raise my handlebars a bit. The result was the application of a type of extender if you will. It bolts directly to the steerer and then the stem clamps to the extension. It is a professionally developed piece of equipment, however, I am reconsidering the efficacy of the part given the discussion. Being 6'4" it is tough getting a proper fit on factory frames without going custom. The questions I have are thus:
1) Is this a common practice or at least a safe practice?
2) What are some examples of tri specific frames sized for well proportioned taller athletes?
Thanks.
Uhm, well, I have about 2" of spacers above my headset! Is that ok? Sheezh...
Also, someone mentioned clamping forces on the carbon steerer tube the other day and I notice I have my stem clamped directly on my 1" carbon steerer tube without any shim or piece of metal to distribute forces evenly. Is that a problem? It's a two bolt stem. It seems to be working fine....
-Robert
"How wonderful it is that nobody need wait a single moment before starting to improve the world." ~Anne Frank
If memory serves, Reynold's restriction is for carbon steer tubes, not their alloy Ouza Comp model (right?). Still, there's an issue with size if you've got 3-4 inches of stack. A riser stem is worth investing in, provided you ensure you're reach is compensated for adequately.
Also, you can order a one-piece aluminum spacer to take the place of several once you've got the height set. Wheels Manufacturing makes black and silver spacers in various heights and in 1 and 1 1/8 inch diameters. One solid 2.5cm spacer is better than several smaller ones.
of course, the simplest solution is just to use a threaded fork and quill stem.. looks better and is far more adjustable. It's not necessary to buy a new stem if you want to change the height of the bars by an inch or more. But we retrogrouches seem to have lost this argument..
"It is a good feeling for old men who have begun to fear failure, any sort of failure, to set a schedule for exercise and stick to it. If an aging man can run a distance of three miles, for instance, he knows that whatever his other failures may be, he is not completely wasted away." Romain Gary, SI interview
Looks better?? Puuleeze! Besides, and system that requires a mallet for "adjustment" is too old skool for this cat.
If you need a mallet for adjustment, you're doing it wrong..
"It is a good feeling for old men who have begun to fear failure, any sort of failure, to set a schedule for exercise and stick to it. If an aging man can run a distance of three miles, for instance, he knows that whatever his other failures may be, he is not completely wasted away." Romain Gary, SI interview
Can someone tell me what a steer tube spacer is? I think it is the black rings that are in between the frame and the stem, but I don't know for sure. Anyways, I have a Cervelo One, and I have one spacer above the stem, and several below. Does this make a difference to have one above the stem? How much is too much below the stem?
Thanks,
Jack
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"What the mind can conceive and believe, the mind and body can achieve; and those who stay will be champions."
I've always been told / read / and used the mallet technique to loosen a quill stem wedge after loosening the bolt. Another method would be appreciated. I still have a couple quills...
I've never needed to use any significant force to move a quill, perhaps because I've always installed them myself and used enough grease. Plus removing and replacing once a year, same as for a seatpost. If the wedge is cranked down hard enough that it takes a mallet to move the quill, there's a good chance the steerer tube will be distorted..
"It is a good feeling for old men who have begun to fear failure, any sort of failure, to set a schedule for exercise and stick to it. If an aging man can run a distance of three miles, for instance, he knows that whatever his other failures may be, he is not completely wasted away." Romain Gary, SI interview