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I was reading about what bike to ride on trainers in another post. I would have to say the answer to any "what bike in the trainer" question IMO would be "Not a bike you need".
I have (had) an old Basso that I would jury rig together with what ever it took to get my parts on it - even duct taping aero bars to the top of the drop bars on the bike. I had a to long, over extended seat post and a 10 speed wheel jammed into a 170mm rear end made for a 6/7 speed. The bike had a bent ass front wheel with a dry rotted tubular tire that has not held air since the mid 90's.
That is a trainer bike.
Now, I may be wrong BUT. I think that attaching my rear QR into a static mount that will hold the bike in a fashon that the bike was really not designed for - then hammering out intervals on a trainer while standing on the bike watching the BB rocket 3" side to side is just not good for any frame. I got my Basso frame for less than $200.00 from somewhere with old Campy parts on it. That was a great bike that I never hit the road with but spent much time on. With out worry.
Now on my rollers I will ride a real bike, that to me is just like a REALLY REALLY smooth road to a bike.
So anyways...the other day I tore the BB shell right off of the down tube of the frame. Rather that bike than one of my new ones. I cant imagine the stresses that a Litespeed with Carbon seat stays will take in a trainer - that I would imagine no Litespeed engineer really paid much time looking into because bikes are not made to be ridden while mounted to a frame that will not allow any side to side movement of the frame.
I guess my point is - be careful with your bike in the trainer - unless it is your trainer bike, and then train to break it.
My next trainer bike is a 1994 Can-of-Ale that has been itching to break - 2cm to big for me too.
What if the Hokey Pokey is what it is all about?
I can't agree more. If your going to ride on an indoor trainer, use the cheapest bike you own. The stress being put on the frame (especially while in a climb) is very high. Not only that, it is put under a load in which it was not designed for. If you ever took a look at a bike while on a trainer, the frame is constantly twisting. This is obviously stressing the frame with every crank. Now, I know you didn't lay out all that money for a bike that is now going to last only half of it's expected life. Save the pretty bike for when other people see you. Train on that ugly duckling.
R9T, glad you are back. Now I am going to disagree with you.
I used to use an old bike on my trainer, but needed to rid of it for space reasons. Now I use my race bike. I have actually used it before, and have used it again for two seasons. I don't want to use my road bike, because I use a different rear wheel for the trainer. So my race bike always has an old wheel and tire on it during the winter.
If you look at your bike when normally riding it, there is twisting going on also, just less due to some being absorbed by the wheel. However, i do not stand up and crank hard intervals. I do all my intervals seated. As a triathlete I don't do many sprints.
The bike is no worse for the wear. I love, have raced on it for years, and enjoy training indoors on it.
"Remember: a bicycle is an elegant and efficient tool designed for seeking out and defeating people who aren't as good as you."
I've rode carbon and alum. bikes over the years in a trainer and have had no trouble. However, I don't do anything out of the saddle on the trainer either. I can wind it up pretty well on the seat . . .
I agree ..... use the old piece of S on your trainer. Mine is a 1989 Centurian Ironman Expert steel frame with Suntour GPX components. It thrives on the trainer every day through the winter and has a nice long rust strip down the top tube from constant sweat drenching (but why worry!)