Really? Around here, the advice would almost universally be 6/6 or 5/5 for road bike and 6/disc or 9/disc for TT. I can’t imagine why anyone would recommend 6/9 for TT.

I don't want a 9 front. My question was either 6/6 or 6/9.

For Tri's

Neither for Tri. Disc rear. 6 front.

I went through almost the exact same exercise a year ago when was looking to upgrade from Fulcrum Racing Quattro Lg (not a Tri wheelset by any means) and was choosing between HED Jet 4/5/6. You've got a lot of helpful advice here - rim depth isn't the only characteristic to pay attention to, and friction losses are often neglected while they don't grow exponentially like aero.

I ultimately went with a pair of 6s because of better hubs and spokes, and it took some time to break in the rear hub - initial impressions were that the new wheels were holding me down because I had to ride in lower gear compared to my regular riding habits, it took about 2 weeks of riding to break them in.

If you're concerned with crosswind stability, I'd get 4/4, 4/6, or 6/6. If you cannot go above the price of 5s, I'd recommend Fulcrum Racing 4 or save the money on one more skinsuit or helmet.

If you want weight-weenie meets aero wheels, you'll need to go full carbon and sacrifice aluminum brake track, or a little bit or rim depth - Fulcrum Racing Zero are a good choice (no personal experience with them, but I wish).


P.S. Re: tri setup of 6/disc - I'm not a triathlete but it's my understanding that it's more of a race day setup. A pair of 4s or 6s is a solid choice for wheels that you train on and race.

Hey all - i recently picked up a pair of these from MBS (HED Jet RC5 Plus Disc Brake to be exact) as my first ever set of "fancy wheels"! When I got the box, i pulled out the wheels and was kind of shocked as they feel like plastic? meaning, i can easily push in with my fingers the deep part of the wheel (relax, i didnt actually do it, but i could). is this normal? If so, are these wheels durable? I purchased these and plan on using them as my regular wheels based off of many reviews i read but now I am having second thoughts. Any help is greatly appreciated.

Thanks

HED jet wheels are an aluminum rim with a carbon fairing. I have seen 1 cracked fairing in my group that includes a lot of sets of jets. I hit the side of a truck at 30 mph on my jet 6+s and the fairing is still fine, but the aluminum has a crease in it.


They are tough and you will never need to have the wheels trued...

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Normal.

Yep, perfectly normal. The strength of the HED wheel is from the aluminum rim, that is what the spokes actually attach to. They just pass through the fairing on their way to the rim. The fairing is glued on for aerodynamics. The wheels are awesome, and tough. Enjoy them.

that is normal. Carbon is very tough, you should not hesitate riding them daily.
We made thousands of mountain bike Jets in the 90s, when courses and bikes were such that aero made some difference. They were trouble free.
enjoy your wheels.

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Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)

Thanks for that info!

1 last question - am i doing something wrong or is it normal to struggle to get on my Conti GP4Season (28mm) clincher tires on the rim? if its normal, any specific helpful tricks?

TIA!

Are you putting the tire's bead in the center channel?

Make sure tire bead of the first side of the tire is down in the trough of the rim, you should finish mounting the tire at the valve stem.

They are a mofo to mount, but you will love the wheels, the jet blacks where the hardest to mount tires on.

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putting a tire on any tubeless rim is different than "old" rims, Jet included.
You're probably going to want tire levers.

once you have your double tape layer on (use the included tape, not cloth or vinyl), start putting the tire on. Make sure the tape is adhered all the way down in the center.
the first side should go pretty normally.
next, stick the tube in and get it all positioned to that it is inside the tire and unwrinkly. Take your thumbs and smoosh it up in there so that when you go to push on the other bead you won't have tube stuck under the tire.
start pushing the other bead onto the rim starting OPPOSITE the valve hole. work around the rim as you normally would, pushing that bead on.

Here's where the magic happens: when (or maybe before) you start to despair of ever getting the tire on, grab your trusty tire levers. I happen to think Panaracer are the best thing going, especially for taking tires off. stick a tire lever in as normal, but don't immediately get to work levering the tire on.
With one hand, just use that lever to keep tension on the bead. With the other hand go back around the part of the tire that is already on the rim and squeeze it so that the bead falls into the drop center section of the rim. Go all the way around the mounted part of the tire. You'll hit one or more sections that where the bead is up at the bead seat in the mounted and inflated position. Squeeze it down into the center and as you do you'll create slack in the bead be able to push more of the tireup where it belongs. When you make some slack take it up with the tire lever that's in your other hand.
You might have to do this a couple times: Lever keeps tension, squeeze the bead to make some slack, push the tire on some more.
Tires with stiffer sidewalls like (ahem) the GP4season will be a little harder to mount because the stiffer sidewalls make the bead want to spring out and live up on the bead seat. during mounting the bead should be down in the well.

Removal is a variation on this. With tubeless rims you have to break the bead seal no matter what your tire is, just like on a motor vehicle. The thing that works best for me is to put my palms on the rim and tire, then curl my fingers over the tire and pull back (toward me) and slightly up to squeeze on the tire and break that seal to let the bead fall into the well. it's backward to what I used to do (pushing with my thumbs) but it is more effective for me.
I'm not gonna lie, some tires are really tight. My co-workers often come to me when they can't get a tire off. So far I am undefeated, but yesterday I came really close with a Bontrager tire.

I hope this gives some clarity and direction. If for some reason you can't get your tire on just bring it over and I'll show you.

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Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)

Do i need the tape if I am setting them up as clinchers for now?

You need some type of rim tape.

I use Scotch 8896.

right. Tape is NOT optional.

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Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)

The Jets are Hed Belgium rims with a non-structural carbon fairing attached. Non-structural meaning that it can’t take having spokes mounted to it. I think there may have been one alloy-carbon hybrid wheel that had a structural carbon segment, and I think it was made by Shimano. That wheel had the nipples mounted to the carbon. If you mounted nipples to the Jets’ fairing, the fairing would crack as you brought it up to tension. But that’s fine, it’s just there for aerodynamics.

Steve's first spoked wheel, which was the first example of what we all now think of as an "aero wheel" was carbon with an alloy brake track. 60mm deep section, alloy brake track, tubular. That was in the late 80s and was the HED CX. We started making clincher versions in the 90s, and in the 2000's we did an RTM variation called the Alps.

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Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)

Managed to get my tire on last week with some serious effort, all the while thinking how screwed I would be if I was sweaty and stuck with a roadside flat. Given your comment about the GP4Seasons, which tires would you recommend that would be easier? I happen to be in the market for a new 30mm set. TIA!

GP 5000 has been good to me. Tubed is easier than not. I hear good things about schwalbe, I have only used their tubeless items, not the tubed stuff.

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Andy Tetmeyer (I work at HED)

I just bought the RC5 wheelset (for disc brake). Front weighs 890, rear 1040. 1930 total. These are going to be my training wheels on my Parlee TTiR.

I think the RC5 and it's predecessor, the HedJet 5 Express are an incredible deal and offer a fantastic ride quality, especially if paired with Specialized S-Works Turbo tires (which are far easier to mount than Conti 5k's) at around 70psi.
In particular, the 5 seems to be the optimum balance between aero yet stable in cross winds, for me at least. I've owned the C2 version of the Jet 6 and the Hed Vanquish 6. Maybe because I have an upper body like a T-Rex but both of the 60's really freaked me out in the cross winds. The RC5 is much more stable for me. I also have a Vanquish 4 which is a fantastic wheel and I would love to know the aero comparison to that vs the RC5 vs the 6.

This all said, Hed makes some great wheels which are a pleasure to ride!

Not sure if this has been answered but I just got the RC5 wheelset from mybikeshop.
Front wheel is 890 grams
Rear is 1040

FWIW, I also have the Vanquish 4; 730 grams.

Based on my experience, the 60 profile (narrow J6, wide J6, Vanquish 6) doesn't work for me. I get blown around too much in the cross winds. I'm 154lbs, 6 feet tall but have T-rex arms.
I *love* the RC5 as a front wheel and have used both disc and rim brake versions. It's amazing what a 10mm difference will do w/respect to cross winds.
The Vanquish 4 is also a great front wheel though I wish they would sell a 5. I'd be first in line.