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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [RizzaNZ] [ In reply to ]
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RizzaNZ wrote:
So I’ve got a set of 160mm being delivered soon to replace my 172.5 crankset. So not to sidetrack the thread, but how has everyone dealt with saddle height when you go shorter cranks? Do you end up raising the saddle height the exact same amount as per the drop in crank length?

I think the answer is it depends. Bear in mind you probably also want to push your saddle back as well to maintain same knee over pedal feel, in which case it won't be a simple case of raising same amount as crank reduction.

I only dropped from 170 to 165. Height stayed the same.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [jharris] [ In reply to ]
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TT rig.

145mm crank 165cm height.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [Mudge] [ In reply to ]
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5ft 11
TT bike
Crank length 155mm
Very comfortable in aero position
Road bike
Crank length 172.5mm
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [MarcusT] [ In reply to ]
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MarcusT wrote:
Im 5ft 7 and i ride 170mm cranks on all of my bikes and i find this a great fit for me.

I am the same with same crank length. I was wondering if this thread has a selection bias in that the only people posting are those who are trending to shorter than "traditional" lengths. I always wondered why going back to 40+ years ago why bike manufacturers almost always just put 170's on every bike of almost all sizes. How did the early day guys from 100 years ago come up with 170's? Why not 190's or 140's? There must have been a lot of trial by feel without power meters (obviously). Bottom bracket heights, ground clearance, ankle clearance at rear chainstays would have all factored in along with "feel" and how early day athletes felt more powerful or faster. As gearing was limited back then a longer crank would effectively mean a lower gear too.

When mountain bikes first came out in the 80's they all had 175's for "more leverage. They had higher bottom brackets too. I rode 170's on the road bikes and liked the 175's on the mountain bikes (and its not like mountain bikes needed longer cranks for lower gearing, they already had ridiculous low gearing). The leverage was nice...standing or sitting on steeps with open hip angle. Something you could not really replicate with lower gearing.

In any case, since then I have ridden with 165's, 170's, 172.5 and 175's. My fastest triathlons have been on 172.5 which does not make sense if you look at my height, but I have zero torso length and my body is mainly legs so my lower body is probably closer to someone who is 5'10".

If you look at the math, power = force x distance x RPM.

So when we go to shorter cranks, to keep the same power, either force or RPM has to go up (or a bit of both). I am not a high RPM guy and never seemed to make up with higher RPM for the period I spend on 165's. My legs also felt more dead for the run, probably because of the higher force to get to the same power.

In any case, I've been on 170's for all bikes for the last 10 years. It does not get in the way of getting in an aero position for me. I also like that all my bikes, most spin bikes, most gym bikes are all on 170's.

Unlike many I can feel miniscule deltas in crank length, saddle height, cycling short thickness, running shoe sole thickness, ski binding stack height, pedal stack height, ski glove thickness, tennis racket handle variations etc etc etc. I can see how many people can't feel differences in equipment or body positioning too. Everyone has different spatial awareness.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [devashish_paul] [ In reply to ]
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devashish_paul wrote:
MarcusT wrote:
I am the same with same crank length. I was wondering if this thread has a selection bias in that the only people posting are those who are trending to shorter than "traditional" lengths.


I was thinking the same thing. I’m 172.5 road; 170 Tri (formerly 175 on both). No testing or refined analysis. I’m open to trying others but this is where I’ve landed
Last edited by: DFW_Tri: Nov 8, 20 10:40
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [jharris] [ In reply to ]
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I've always used 172.5 because it seems like a standard size on most bikes and it's never given me any trouble. Two bike builds ago I decided to see if a different size would be better for me so I went to a bike fitter, paid a bunch of money... he recommended using 172.5
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [DFW_Tri] [ In reply to ]
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Maybe given some of your rowing background, you are used to applying a lot of force with a completely closed up hip angle too. I noticed that since I started using the rowing erg, I can stay in an aero position on 170's on very steep hills with high crank force and high RPM and not have to sit up or stand. If you look at Sebi Kienle, the guy is on 175's with a very closed up hip angle and ultra aero. He also runs very well off the bike. Would he be faster on 170's or 165's? I don't know. Closing down the hip angle CAN help generate more force from glutes too.



Recently Lionel Sanders did the hour record on 165's with some of the highest gearing of all time (61x13) and barely rode at 88 RPM. So a higher crank force at 50.3 km for the hour.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [TiOneOn] [ In reply to ]
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TiOneOn wrote:
I've always used 172.5 because it seems like a standard size on most bikes and it's never given me any trouble. Two bike builds ago I decided to see if a different size would be better for me so I went to a bike fitter, paid a bunch of money... he recommended using 172.5


Why did the fitter recommend 172.5mm cranks?
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [jimatbeyond] [ In reply to ]
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It was a formula he had based on body measurements. It was based on inseam and overall height and a couple of other things, I don't really remember the specifics now but he showed it to me at the time.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [TiOneOn] [ In reply to ]
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Did he test your power output with a variety of crank arm lengths?
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [devashish_paul] [ In reply to ]
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devashish_paul wrote:
MarcusT wrote:
Im 5ft 7 and i ride 170mm cranks on all of my bikes and i find this a great fit for me.


When mountain bikes first came out in the 80's they all had 175's for "more leverage. They had higher bottom brackets too. I rode 170's on the road bikes and liked the 175's on the mountain bikes (and its not like mountain bikes needed longer cranks for lower gearing, they already had ridiculous low gearing). The leverage was nice...standing or sitting on steeps with open hip angle. Something you could not really replicate with lower gearing.

If you look at the math, power = force x distance x RPM.

So when we go to shorter cranks, to keep the same power, either force or RPM has to go up (or a bit of both). I am not a high RPM guy and never seemed to make up with higher RPM for the period I spend on 165's. My legs also felt more dead for the run, probably because of the higher force to get to the same power.

A few things I think you have missed or didn't consider. I find the 175 length on mtb and I like on gravel bikes are nice because your position isn't as aggressive and it is more likely at some point your pedalling may come to an almost stop and you have to muscle big power to get up to a cadence again over a short sharp climb or the like. I think the slightly longer leaver comes into it's own there unlike a tri that is a relatively constant effort and cadence.

As for shorter cranks and generating power as you shorten the crank and open your hip angle I found I was able to generate more or same power due to being able to pedal in more of a circle. With a longer crank it may be harder to get over the top and start applying force in your pedal stroke again but applying the same amount of watts over a few more degrees of rotation equals more watts or even equal watts per rotation at a lower average force but more degrees applied force.

I come from a cycling background and I certainly don't pedal circles but as I went shorter it feels amazing like you are pedalling in circles but as I mentioned in this post at 150 it felt like I was 360 degrees engaged or couldn't coordinate my muscles to pedal in a circle that small. The longer you go seems to allow more of an up down pedal stroke and is a safer zone for me. Finding the happy and most efficient medium combined with fit is the key and everyone will be different.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [TurboVette] [ In reply to ]
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TurboVette wrote:
I’m 6’3” (well like 1/8” off but close enough). 33” inseam and I ride 175’s on all my TT bikes and my road bikes. Not sure exactly what the fixie or the beach cruiser is but those were Craigslist/garage sale finds.

I’ve aero tested (along with a re-fit) from 155 to 190 (the ones above 175 were difficult for me to find and the power meter sponsor isn’t compatible with them).

And between all those the fastest position I could find was 175’s.

Anyone who says “shorter crank is more aero” is full of complete crap...

What a load of nonsense.

Are we required to register as short crank supporters or opposers? The way you are talking as though we have all picked a side and there is a bunch of emotion invested in this makes your input questionable. Seems likely there's bias here.

A shorter crank will require a raised saddle position for equal maximum leg extension, all else being equal. That in isolation will increase the riders frontal area and total drag would likely increase. However, since the lower knee height a the top of the stroke facilitates a more aerodynamic torso position for many riders that issue can easily me overshadowed. Cranks don't dictate aerodynamics in a meaningful way, but positions do and cranks can facilitate position improvements. If this wasn't a problem for you, you shouldn't expect aerodynamic improvements to follow from a crank length change and your testimony is worthless. If it was a problem for you and you achieved no improvement, that's utterly contradictory and your testimony is worthless. Take your pick!

TurboVette wrote:
...When I tried the 155 I had to spin at 115 to generate the same speed that the 175’s achieved with 93(ish). Also it was about 5-7 watts slower depending on the yaw angle.....

I can absolutely guarantee you that had you used the same gear and the same wheel/tyre, you'd achieve the same speed for the same rpm.... Don't you agree?

Note: Power is not speed. I don't know what "5-7W slower" means in this context. You're wrong regardless ;)

What are you trying to say with the above quoted comment?
Why did you use a significantly different gear on the two crank lengths and then try and compare speed and rpm?
Cadence is proportional to speed unless you change gear, or change the wheel/tyre diameter. Crank length doesn't even come into this equation. If you are trying to say something about pedal speed, pedal force, or any other measure that is actually related to how you use the cranks to produce torque or power or speed, please let us know. As it stands, all you've told us is that you used a 24%(ish) bigger gear with the 175mm cranks. You haven't told us why.

TurboVette wrote:
...If anyone recommends changing, do it and test, even if it’s not aero testing, I would adjust my fit and cranks. Run a course (in the exact same gear) and then record time, rpm and power (heart rate too). Then pick the best one for you and your style.

What is the specific test protocol and how many times do you suggest repeating this test in order to determine if any differences are statistically significant? Why do you want to use the same gear and why do you want to measure rpm and heart rate? You do realise that if using the same gear the rpm and speed are proportional and there's no need to measure both? But why dictate using the same gear? Silly. And why try and read anything into heart rate which is going to vary as a result of a myriad other factors and simply confuse the data?

I don't think you know what you're trying to test, or how to test it.
Last edited by: Ai_1: Nov 9, 20 5:20
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [jharris] [ In reply to ]
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jharris wrote:
I use to always use a 172.5mm
I’m 5’10”

Last season I tried a 165mm. I can’t say it was terrible. Maybe I gave up some leverage on the climbs.

Gave up some leverage?????? Go get fitted.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [Ai_1] [ In reply to ]
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Ai_1 wrote:
TurboVette wrote:
I’m 6’3” (well like 1/8” off but close enough). 33” inseam and I ride 175’s on all my TT bikes and my road bikes. Not sure exactly what the fixie or the beach cruiser is but those were Craigslist/garage sale finds.

I’ve aero tested (along with a re-fit) from 155 to 190 (the ones above 175 were difficult for me to find and the power meter sponsor isn’t compatible with them).

And between all those the fastest position I could find was 175’s.

Anyone who says “shorter crank is more aero” is full of complete crap...

What a load of nonsense.

Are we required to register as short crank supporters or opposers? The way you are talking as though we have all picked a side and there is a bunch of emotion invested in this makes your input questionable. Seems likely there's bias here.

A shorter crank will require a raised saddle position for equal maximum leg extension, all else being equal. That in isolation will increase the riders frontal area and total drag would likely increase. However, since the lower knee height a the top of the stroke facilitates a more aerodynamic torso position for many riders that issue can easily me overshadowed. Cranks don't dictate aerodynamics in a meaningful way, but positions do and cranks can facilitate position improvements. If this wasn't a problem for you, you shouldn't expect aerodynamic improvements to follow from a crank length change and your testimony is worthless. If it was a problem for you and you achieved no improvement, that's utterly contradictory and your testimony is worthless. Take your pick!

TurboVette wrote:
...When I tried the 155 I had to spin at 115 to generate the same speed that the 175’s achieved with 93(ish). Also it was about 5-7 watts slower depending on the yaw angle.....

I can absolutely guarantee you that had you used the same gear and the same wheel/tyre, you'd achieve the same speed for the same rpm.... Don't you agree?

Note: Power is not speed. I don't know what "5-7W slower" means in this context. You're wrong regardless ;)

What are you trying to say with the above quoted comment?
Why did you use a significantly different gear on the two crank lengths and then try and compare speed and rpm?
Cadence is proportional to speed unless you change gear, or change the wheel/tyre diameter. Crank length doesn't even come into this equation. If you are trying to say something about pedal speed, pedal force, or any other measure that is actually related to how you use the cranks to produce torque or power or speed, please let us know. As it stands, all you've told us is that you used a 24%(ish) bigger gear with the 175mm cranks. You haven't told us why.

TurboVette wrote:
...If anyone recommends changing, do it and test, even if it’s not aero testing, I would adjust my fit and cranks. Run a course (in the exact same gear) and then record time, rpm and power (heart rate too). Then pick the best one for you and your style.

What is the specific test protocol and how many times do you suggest repeating this test in order to determine if any differences are statistically significant? Why do you want to use the same gear and why do you want to measure rpm and heart rate? You do realise that if using the same gear the rpm and speed are proportional and there's no need to measure both? But why dictate using the same gear? Silly. And why try and read anything into heart rate which is going to vary as a result of a myriad other factors and simply confuse the data?

I don't think you know what you're trying to test, or how to test it.

Of course the aero is relevant with crank length as much as anything. But it’s to stay within the context of things. If clearance between knee and chest/belly is an issue getting into your position, then yes, it’s relevant to address. If it isn’t and you Can still put out the power, then you’ll probably be less aero, as you change the position up and nothing else and then crank length is probably not something you should address. Maybe there are flexibilty issues than should be worked on instead?
But it’s hard to say, as bike/rider integration is hard to predict, so the higher position might be the faster.
But changing you crankset to a shorter one, just for the sake of doing it because it’s “better” - don’t.
As for leg speed, that’s offset by the lack of leverage, so I dont buy that argument. You’re effectively “gearing up” with a shorter crank, But not really. In the sense that in the same gear, at the same cadence, you’ll ride at the same speed, But you’ll have to put out more torque to keep that cadence. However, you should be able to ride more comfortably at a higher cadence in a lower gear. But that’s a preferrence as Well. It’s say, go for the longest crank arm, where you’re comfortable with your position
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [TurboVette] [ In reply to ]
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TurboVette wrote:
I’m 6’3” (well like 1/8” off but close enough). 33” inseam and I ride 175’s on all my TT bikes and my road bikes. Not sure exactly what the fixie or the beach cruiser is but those were Craigslist/garage sale finds.

I’ve aero tested (along with a re-fit) from 155 to 190 (the ones above 175 were difficult for me to find and the power meter sponsor isn’t compatible with them).

And between all those the fastest position I could find was 175’s.

Anyone who says “shorter crank is more aero” is full of complete crap.

When I tried the 155 I had to spin at 115 to generate the same speed that the 175’s achieved with 93(ish). Also it was about 5-7 watts slower depending on the yaw angle.

I’m sure the short crank supporters will say “this is n=1” and that’s fine.

If anyone recommends changing, do it and test, even if it’s not aero testing, I would adjust my fit and cranks. Run a course (in the exact same gear) and then record time, rpm and power (heart rate too). Then pick the best one for you and your style.

Yes your n=1........at best.

But to be "full of complete crap" I'm 6'2' always road a 175, got a professional fitting, went down to a 170 (tested from 165 to 180) gained 6 watt avg, and had a smoother cadence (peddling analysis).

Yes, I will take that crap every day but I would never say someone is full of complete crap because of my n=1 case.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [TurboVette] [ In reply to ]
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TurboVette wrote:

Anyone who says “shorter crank is more aero” is full of complete crap.


In my case it is. The shorter crank allowed me to drop my front end without closing my hip angle, and also opened my knee angle (which was the main limiter for my position and comfort). I'm faster for the same power, and more comfortable as well...

"I'm thinking of a number between 1 and 10, and I don't know why!"
Last edited by: Warbird: Nov 10, 20 10:42
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [Rideon77] [ In reply to ]
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Rideon77 wrote:
jharris wrote:
I use to always use a 172.5mm
I’m 5’10”

Last season I tried a 165mm. I can’t say it was terrible. Maybe I gave up some leverage on the climbs.


Gave up some leverage?????? Go get fitted.

I was fitted, but I didn’t try different crank arms during the fit. While going to a shorter crank, I admit I felt more comfortable in a Tri position.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [brasch] [ In reply to ]
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brasch wrote:
Ai_1 wrote:
.......

Of course the aero is relevant with crank length as much as anything. But it’s to stay within the context of things. If clearance between knee and chest/belly is an issue getting into your position, then yes, it’s relevant to address. If it isn’t and you Can still put out the power, then you’ll probably be less aero, as you change the position up and nothing else and then crank length is probably not something you should address.....

From an aerodynamics perspective - no. I agree.
However aerodynamics is not the only, or even the main reason, that I think it's worth considering a change to crank length. I reduced the length of my tri bike cranks over 2 years ago. The main reason was not aerodynamics, although it has aided me a little there too. The primary reason was to open the knee angle at the top of the stroke as I felt it would mitigate long persisting knee ache that I've had on long rides. I was delighted to find that it did indeed reduce this problem dramatically. It also seems to have improved my power figures, at most durations except perhaps a short all-out sprint, although it's hard to be sure. It would be rather difficult to figure out if the cranks are responsible or to identify the mechanism of their contribution. My suspicion based on how it feels to ride the tri bike compared to my recollection with the longer cranks and my road bike which is still equipped with longer cranks, is that the dead spot at the top of the stoke is reduced and I'm applying useful force for a larger proportion of the stroke, but that's very subjective so I'm not going to claim it as fact.

brasch wrote:
....Maybe there are flexibilty issues than should be worked on instead?
But it’s hard to say, as bike/rider integration is hard to predict, so the higher position might be the faster.
But changing you crankset to a shorter one, just for the sake of doing it because it’s “better” - don’t....


It's probably not worth spending money on shorter, or longer, cranks unless you have some reason to think they'll suit you better. But similarly there's no reason to think the size that came on your bike is likely to be best. Crank length doesn't seem to be hugely critical for most people, but the size supplied stock on bikes is pretty arbitrary, so there's equally no reason NOT to change, besides cost and convenience.

brasch wrote:
...As for leg speed, that’s offset by the lack of leverage, so I dont buy that argument. You’re effectively “gearing up” with a shorter crank, But not really. In the sense that in the same gear, at the same cadence, you’ll ride at the same speed, But you’ll have to put out more torque to keep that cadence. However, you should be able to ride more comfortably at a higher cadence in a lower gear. But that’s a preferrence as Well. It’s say, go for the longest crank arm, where you’re comfortable with your position


That's not technically correct. If you stick to the same gear with a shorter crank, you don't need more torque. You do need more pedal force (at least on average).

Power = Torque * Rotational Velocity (i.e. Cadence)
Torque = Force * Radius (i.e. Crank Length)

So, since power is proportional to speed (assuming unchanged aerodynamic, rolling resistance and drive train losses), we can say power is fixed for equal performance. For equal output, we simply need the product of average pedal Force, Crank length and Cadence to remain constant.

Force_long * Crank length_long * Cadence_long = Force_short * Crank length_short * Cadence_short

you can already change the balance between force and cadence just by changing gear, no need to change crank length. Some prefer to use a higher cadence and lower pedal force, others prefer lower cadence and higher pedal force. However without changing the crank length, the product of these and the path of the pedal remains unchanged. The length of crank that best suits you from a power production perspective would therefore seem to depend largely on pedal speed, and stroke path preferences, not cadence, leverage, torque....etc. If you haven't enough "leverage" you just need more gears in my opinion. Incidentally, I tend to be a "grinder" compared to many. I tend to cruise at around 80rpm and like to climb at about 70rpm. I've reached 150rpm+ during brief sprints but typically the only time I'll stay over 90rpm is a short time trial at or above FTP. I've seen it said that shorter cranks are for people that like high cadences. I like shorter than typical cranks (160mm) and my cadence has not increased since I changed, nor has my power dropped. I think I apply force more effectively around more of the stroke rather than now using a higher peak pedal force. But again, that's an educated but still somewhat subjective best guess, not a fact.
Last edited by: Ai_1: Nov 10, 20 0:37
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [Ai_1] [ In reply to ]
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6'7" run 170 on both TT and gravel bike.
Played with length from 160 to 180 during fit, had a very hard time telling them a part, all felt pretty similar.
No doubt it allowed me to get a little more aero, also helped me really focus on bringing my cadence up a hair.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [ In reply to ]
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5'7. Went from 175 -> 172.5 -> 165


I would like to confirm that my run off the bike is faster than before so I'm keeping 165 crank.
Bike time is same or better, so I'm not losing any time on the bike either.
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [Ai_1] [ In reply to ]
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I don’t necessarily disagree with you. I was just trying to make a point against people saying “shorter crank arms” for no obvious reason. And tbh it’s not like there’s a huge difference between a 165 or 175mm crank arm. I Think it’s more for tweaking a position than a basic Ball park fit
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Re: What crank length do you use on Tri bike? [brasch] [ In reply to ]
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brasch wrote:
I don’t necessarily disagree with you. I was just trying to make a point against people saying “shorter crank arms” for no obvious reason. And tbh it’s not like there’s a huge difference between a 165 or 175mm crank arm. I Think it’s more for tweaking a position than a basic Ball park fit

If you're positioned at your limit, then a 10mm difference is huge. On my tri bike I can't even get over the top of the stroke with 175s, used to be able to (but not anymore) with 172.5s but was never comfortable, was better with 170s, and with 165s I'm much more comfortable and able to put out more power. Even on my road bike, going to 165 from 170 was noticeably better...

"I'm thinking of a number between 1 and 10, and I don't know why!"
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