Looks great. Further improvements would be to take Jim's advice and go to shorter cranks. For every mm the crank gets shorter, you need to raise the saddle 1 mm to compensate. For every 10 mm you raise the saddle, bring it forward another 2-3 mm to compensate (generally, the need to bring the saddle forward depends on the bike and the seatpost angle).

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)

Thanks a ton for your feedback throughout this cycle, Trent - I really appreciate it!

I'll take a look at cranks and see if I could find something used - I'd hate to spend more than the bike cost me on them, but I do want to eventually get a power meter so maybe this is that jumping-off point.

Back to the 120mm stem - sounds like that's only $50 and 30 minutes. From where I'm at now does it make sense to go ahead with that change, then cranks after?

Travis

I think you can go either way and be ok.

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Trent Nix
Owned and operated Tri Shop
F.I.S.T. Advanced Certified Fitter | Retul Master Certified Fitter (back when those were things)