You're an asshole, instead of ridicule them maybe offer to teach them

I teach someone how to install tires, tubes, valve extenders, and cassettes almost every day.

I show them the tools that they need and then send them a link on where to buy them for a great price. I also tell them that they owe me $100 if they don't buy the tools and teach someone else how to work on their wheels.

It kills me when someone says that they are going to a bike shop to have them install tires or a cassette.

You don't need the perfect tools to work on a bottom bracket.

A monkey wrench will work on threaded bottom brackets.

For press-in types, a hammer, piece of wood, metal rod, long bolts, washers, sockets and many other common items can be used to install them.

And yet more time in researching, getting tools, making sure you don't damage your BB (using a monkey wrench can cause serious external cosmetic damage to a BB if not done VERY carefully)....

I would wrap the bottom bracket cup with a rag, old t-shirt, or piece of an old inner tube before using a monkey wrench on it.

Yeah, I tried that too on mine. Not so easy, when it's tight. And my LBS (correctly) installed it TIGHT.

Much, much easier using the CORRECT tool. As folks will often learn the hard way, and spend LOTS of time and money.

Yes, you seem to be obsessed with using suboptimal tools and ignoring vital things like torque wrenches for carbon parts. Not a good idea. As can be seen from the OP's results, even with non-carbon parts.

I have all of the correct tools. Recently, I even got one of my brother's extra Snap-On torque wrenches for installing Rotor cranksets.

I just don't want to see people bringing their bike unnecessarily to a bike shop. You can look around your house and find tools that will work. You don't have to have the correct bike tool when a hammer and piece of wood or a screwdriver can get it done.

Imagine being in a hotel room unpacking your bike before a race. You find a bent or broken part. You don't have the bike tool to fix it so you need to use whatever is handy.

In most cases, a torque wrench isn't necessary. It gives the user a false sense of security and I have seen many people break bolts and components because their torque wrench didn't "click", so they kept applying more force.

When I am teaching someone how to install a cassette, I tell them to feel how the lockring gets notchy as it gets tighter. Generally, about five of those notches (clicks) is properly tight.

I am literally that person you are trying to teach/impress with your 'use basic tools' and don't buy extra stuff so they don't become totally reliant on LBS.

I can say firsthand - as a nonexpert, very infrequent bike repair person, using the BEST and most appropriate and SPECIFIC tools is your single best route to success. Bar none. And even if you order all these specific tools, you will still come out far ahead in terms of cost and time saved compared to LBS or using suboptimal tools.

If you're an expert at the procedure in hand, or have done it so many time you can do it in your sleep, that's the time to start messing with alternative, suboptimal tools. As a rookie fuggetabout it. World's biggest waste of life and time.

Try dialing in an indexed RD without a derailleur hangar adjustment tool. Congrats you just wasted 4 hrs of your life trying to cheap out on it. Buy the tool, spend 1-3 mins straighteningthe hangar, and in most cases you don't even have to touch the barrel adjuster of the RD for perfect shifting.

I actually tried a wrench + rags on my BB before I bought the specific tool for it. Scratched it all up, and got nowhere in the process. Sure, I could have used a BIGGER wrench, but that would have made it worse. Once I had the right tool that fit on the splines perfectly, it was literally trivial to remove it. Tools count. A lot.

You don't need a rear derailleur hanger adjustment tool.

Anddddd ok....we all trust you now as a bike mechanic....I'll gladly pay for my LBS to NOT use a DAG on my errant RD that I brought in and trust that it'll work - NOT.

Definitely need to improve your maintenance habits.


Bingo!

. . and some preventative measures!

1. Try and keep the place you ride a cooler temperature

2. Get some BIG fans going!

3. Lot's of towels! To cover key drip points on the bike

4. Head sweat-band with a replacement for longer rides as well as a replacement top - both can soak up a lot of sweat.

5. With a dry towel, towel the bike down after the ride.

6. About ounce a month - pull the stem off, and any spacers, check head-set top and bottom bearings over and clean out if needed, light regreasing of everything and put back together. Check over bottom bracket for signs of corrosion. Take chain off and spin crank freely to see how it feels. If any changes or feels strange, pull it apart yourself, and check over, or have a shop do it.

7. Use carbon handle bars - alloy bars can really corrode quickly with heavy indoor use.

The above is what we do, and we ride a moderate amount on the trainers in the winter.

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Steve Fleck @stevefleck | Blog

Most used tool in the shop apart from hex keys.

That comment is bordering on moronic.

I hate to have to tell you this, but you're only supposed to pee on the bike during races.

 

For me I hate owning more tools. And time is money. I gladly pay my local LBS to get it done right and if anything happens its on them and they make it right. And supporting my LBS means that the night before my buddies decide we are going to trail run 30 miles I can pop in and grab some nutrition so I don't die in the morning

Wow! Sorry you are experiencing this:( I have had my first road bike, a Lemond Zurich, on my trainer for almost 20 years...I ride 2x a week, year-round on my trainer. It's still absolutely fine and I only have to tune it up every once in a while. Good luck and hang in there!

Try an indoor trainer specific corrosion inhibitor. I thought it was a bit of a gimmick until I tried it, but found it too be very good.

https://muc-off.com/...oducts/sweat-protect