I had same bike, same issue years ago and added some glue between the metal cam and the carbon hole and that held it. Just be absolutely sure that the saddle tilt is where you want it when you let the glue cure. I'd recommend putting it in a trainer, get the bike level, ridding it, tweaking it and the measuring it with any angle tool (some cool apps on phone do this now).

Ian

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Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com
I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan

Thanks Ian, I will try that. If you vaguely remember what kind of glue you used, would be helpful. I tried blue (normal) loctite in there, and it wasn't strong enough. I just ordered "Gorilla Glue Adhesive Spray" that I'm hoping with make the metal surfaces more adherent, but if that fails, I'll probably just just a strong permanent adhesive glue to lock it in place and hope for the best.

I had the same issue. I installed a new clamp and fixed it.
https://www.excelsports.com/...Rjfn6hIaAlWKEALw_wcB

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Not a coach. Not a FOP Tri/swimmer/biker/runner. Barely a MOP AGer.
But I'm learning and making progress.

I have used a little bit of JB Weld on the clamp to hold it in place. Really not that hard to get off either, you can just very carefully use a torch to heat it up a bit and you can get it undone if you need to. Definitely won’t slip though. Seat tilt slipping was a real weakness of these frames.

I an intrigued by JB weld - I have no experience with that kind of stuff.

Do you think a 700-1000 degree heat gun could get it off? Or how would a propane torch do it? Do you heat it up and then just loosen everything?

According to JB Weld’s website it fails at 500 deg f, so a heat gun should do it. I should mention that even after the clamp is glued the seat clamp still works fine for swapping saddles if you need to do that. Just the inner clamp faces get JB welded to the seat mast.

That sounds promising! Last question - to which surface did you apply the JB weld. Did you apply it to the silver area where the small ridges are?

The glue solutions will work. I just bought a new clamp and that worked fine.

Yep on the ridged sliver surface.

Thanks everyone.

I'm going to do both suggestions above.

I ordered a new clamp for $50 (they were sold out on the link above, but found another source that was the right old-school design), mainly because I remember that I've been applying so much force to the hex bolt that I'm rounding off the edges seriously (wayyyy over the recommended 12N-m for sure) so I don't want to be caught with a stripped bolt.

I've also ordered both spray adhesive (lightweight surface sticking) as well as J-B weld (if it still slips despite the new clamp) and will use one or both as needed.

Appreciate the tips. This clamp thing has been getting worse and worse over the years, which makes sense now, as I'm grinding down the gripping teeth every time it gets knocked astray.

Just an update - I fixed it.

I purchased a new clamp ($50) exactly the same as the link you posted above, which worked great.

Just for anybody with similar problems and dealing with the clamp, a few helpful tips that will make it easier:

- My old clamp seemed locked into the seatpost, took me awhile to figure out how to get it out, but it's actually very easy. I used a rubber hammer to tap the back part of the clamp complex (after removing the screw and railholders of course) and that loosened it very easily, didn't have to hit it hard at all.

- My old clamp also seemed stuck together - I had to use a screwdriver to gently wedge between the two interlocking pieces and then pry them apart. Also wasn't hard, but confused me for awhile.

- The clamp itself has polarity, meaning the metal cone ridged side can only be inserted in on direction on the seatpost. My new clamp polarity was actually reversed my old one - I mistakenly tried rubber hammering it in on the old side to no avail before I tried it on the reverse size and it easily slid in.

- You need 2 allen keys to tighten the screw properly.

I also threw some carbon paste (not glue or adhesive) on mine to see if it would provide enough grip, and it absolutely did. I also did clean out the seatpost hole thoroughly before installing the new one, got a fair amount of old grime/debris out which would have contributed to the seat angling. In retrospect, I may have been able to just clean my own clamp completely and reinstall it, so worth doing that first if anyone has the same problem.

My clamp is now so tight I can't budge the angle of the seat at all even while bouncing on the nose with all my weight, and I didn't need crazy tightness of the locking screw to get it that way. Life is good!