Here's an overlay of the frame geometries. (Trek - blue, Exploro - grey, Domane - orange)

The steerer axis (head tube) position of the SC and the Exploro are much closer than the Domane, as is the position of the front axle. So if you can find a suitable stem that would be the easier bike to bring to a similar handling proposition. A larger size Domane might get you in the range too.


FYI, front centre on the Domane calculates out at 602.

Good luck. Last time I asked a question like this I was told to sell my couch and buy more bikes. Lol

The more important question is what happens to your center of gravity by the change in position from "road" to "aero" relative to the bottom bracket.

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Some are born to move the world to live their fantasies...

https://triomultisport.com/
http://www.mjolnircycles.com/

That's pretty nifty, thank you! The 3T and the Speed Concept are shockingly close.

I have an urge to ask “why?” Just of of curioisity

There's a network of clay and country roads not far from me where I could get in some good mileage with very few cars. I hope to get back to racing next year so I'd like to spend some time outside in aero. The clay roads can be extremely smooth certain times of the year... smooth enough to ride safely in aero. TBH they get smooth enough and firm enough that you could probably ride them on a road bike with 28s. With something like 700x45s at a low-ish pressure it would be a very comfortable ride.

I like the thought of it, although my experience is that whenbI set up my Road bike for an acceptable (talking comfort here mostly) tt position, it’s not very comfortable on the hoods or tops. And clip ons with my normal Road position, just doesn’t work for me more than 30seconds at a time.
It’s not only stack/reach, But i usually tilt my saddle Down a bit in tt position and it feels awkward To sit on it like that upright. But if you Can find a compromise, by all means go for it

I don't know your WD on the SC - I've just put in a reasonable assumption. The calculation then shows how that figure would change on the other bikes assuming that you match position exactly.
The longer chainstays on gravel bikes push your weight forward, so you need much more FC to get WD similar
Which means looking at the mountain biker gravel bikes (Racemax still coming from the roadie side a bit more)
You can see the Lauf XL would match up nicely for WD (but maybe hard for position with the extra stack).
The Chamois Hagar has the best name of any recent bike release, no promises that it would feel any good on the road as it is basically a slacked out hardtail with drop bars.

tri bikes have longer front/centers than road bikes, because while road bikes have longer top tubes, the steeper seat angle of the tri bike means the rearward end of the top tube starts significantly forward than that same spot on a road bike. this "pushes" the top tube further in front of the BB, and that pushes the front wheel forward of the BB.

now, on a gravel bike, or on a bike like cervelo's new caledonia, something new is going on, tho it's not really new, because it's been going on with small (women's) bikes for a long time. the goal is to lengthen the front/center without lengthening the cockpit. in the case of both women's road bikes, and with gravel bikes that assume the use of a 700c wheel + a larger gravel tire (say, 36mm up to 44mm) the problem is shoe overlap.

so, how to do this? if you shallow the head angle and you add fork offset, in tandem, you can keep the trail roughly similar, you keep the bike's reach the same, it should more or less fit and handle the way you want, but you add a bunch of front/center. this makes a road bike's FC approach the FC of a tri bike.

so, for me, 6'2", riding a size L tri bike, i'm looking at an FC of about 620mm, or 630mm, something like that. on a corresponding road bike my FC might be 590mm to 600mm. that 30mm difference might not seem like that much, but it is.

these newer bikes with 72° of head angle and 50mm of offset really lengthen out the FC. i write about this a bit in my review of the caledonia. depending on the size i get, the FC is either 609mm in the size 56, or 626 in the size 58. normally i'm a 58, but in the caledonia the stack of that bike is a little tall. the reason i can ride a 56 is because of that mambo FC.

but realize that a speed concept in L and a caledonia in 58 have almost exactly the same FC. this is because the caledonia is made as a road bike that has a lot in common geometrically with a gravel bike. an OBED Boundary has the same FC in a frame with stack/reach of 609/394, which is an XL, but calcs out to more like a size 58 in most bikes. i think a caledonia in 58 has stackreach of 605/396.

the problem with these bikes, if you're trying to get a tri bike position out of a gravel frame, is if/when you can't get the saddle forward far enough. you'd need to lick that. but that might not be an issue if you're riding a split nose saddle.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Yeah, it's about 11mm between the steering axes. In terms of stems though, I'd be looking at a long -35 degree stem or similar. And remember the cosine of that angle becomes significant in making it effectively shorter.

@Slowman, at least on the Exploro Max the seatpost appears to have no offset, so saddle setback won't be too horrible. But it's not a round post so I doubt there will be forwar offset posts easily accessed.

Jumping into this conversation late, but i wanted to see if you ended up buying the 3T Exploro? How does it compare speed and feel wise to your Speed Concept? I have a Road bike, a Speed Concept and just sold my Mountain Bike since I moved to South Florida. I don't race much with my Speed Concept so i'm looking at a fast gravel option (3T) that I can put aero bars for the occasional race when i'm not hitting the road or small trails. Thanks,

Racemax owner here. I love it. I have two sets of wheels, one road, one gravel.
Looking for some light, low stack clip-ons to use it for triathlons and think it will be as good as my current TT bike, albeit less aero with drop bars.