A few things here:

You absolutely need a narrow-wide chainring to run 1x. Everything else is pretty much optional, but that 1x specific ring is crucial. Sram makes great ones that are relatively cheap but only for 5 bolt so depending on your crank that might not work. With 1x specific chainrings, they only come in even numbered tooth counts. So you're looking at 50 or 52. Also your current gearing is a bit odd as is. Usually with a 52 big ring youd have a 36 or so small ring, so you're gearing is narrower than it could be at no penalty right now.

Don't worry about getting a clutched RD.

The gearing gaps might feel big initially but you get used to them and then won't even think about it. I've only ever used 1x on my tri bikes so the gaps are completely irrelevant to me.

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Benjamin Deal - Professional - Instagram - TriRig - Lodi Cyclery
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Budget 1x TT rings......Garbaruk from Poland I think. Love mine. 54T and 12-25 is my go-to for anything that averages 50ish feet per mile or less.

When going 1x, instead of trying to buy a "one cassette to rule them all".........I'd just own multiples. I'd own a tight 12-25 or 11-23 then also own some stuff with bailout up top if you wish. Corn cobs for the flat stuff and dinner plates for the steep stuff.

But I wouldn't shoot myself in the kneecaps right away by saying I'm only buying one cassette to both have an 11t and a 30/32 or even 36t bailout.

Also, a lot of folks talk about spinning out 12t cogs and talk crap about them..........spin out a 12t cog on a big front ring. You'll be moving the freak out, around 40+mph. I consider those situations outliers anywhere where if you're descending and putting out power at 50mph.........that's special and would need special considerations and some cajones.

Otherwise, a 12t is much more efficient when needed and also puts a lot of the 23 to 28mph flat speed riders right in the most efficient "meat" of the cassette for chainline.

@ realbdeal. Thanks I had read about the narrow to wide chainring but had forgotten all about it.

@ burnthe sheep. Thanks. TBH I change cassettes on current set up depending on course so not sure why I felt I need to move away from that approach.

1 more question. Any issue regarding the chainline if using a double crank and just removing the inner ring?

Thanks

Yes. My understanding is that 1x specific rings are offset for chainline purposes. I don't think just removing the inner ring and keeping that chainline with the outer ring would work optimally.

Just noticed typo. Current is 39/53