I'm confused on the performance. Looking at:

https://flocycling.com/...disc-carbon-clincher - under time savings it says that the disc is 4:18 faster than a mavic open pro

but ALL of the new wheels are in the 6min + savings (iron distance)

https://flocycling.com/...-wind-tunnel-results

Does this mean that the new wheels are faster than a disc or is there a difference in the testing, etc?

Good question. The description talks about savings for one wheel or two. For a FLO DISC you can only have one, so the time savings is for the single wheel. When looking at other wheels, the calculation is based on two wheels. In all cases a FLO DISC is the fastest wheel. I hope this helps.

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

What does "pmh" mean in the x axis label of the power comparison charts?

It's a mistake. It's meant to be mph for miles per hour. We are in the middle of correcting it.

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

Sorry for the hijack, but I am wondering what is your tire recommendation for the old Flo wheels that was designed around the GP 4000s 700x23. I just ran through my last pair 4000s and I can't find the 4000s tires anywhere. I purchased a set of 5000s 23s for another set and they seem too narrow with rim exposed. Would 5000 25s work best? Or what is your other recommendation? Thanks

Why do they seem to narrow? I'm curious, can't imagine it! For reference, my Gp5k's in25mm width blow up to about 28mm on my 21mm internal width race wheels

Great question. We’ve found that the new 5000s are smaller than the old 4000s. For example, the 28mm 4000s are similar in size to the 32mm 5000s.

The FLO 45, 60, & 90 were designed with 23mm 4000s so we would recommend the 25mm or 28mm 5000s as you’ve suggested.

Feel free to give me a call if you want to talk through this more. 702-518-2998. I’ll be around all weekend.

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

Speaking of the older FLOs set up for the 4000s.

Can the older FLOs converted to the tubeless 5000s?

Great question. Yes, all FLO wheels can be converted to tubeless. You will need a Stan's conversion kit or similar and you are good to go. The 5000s are a great choice.

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

When you say ALL, does that include the original circa 2013 FLO's with the aluminum brake track? I've got an old 60/90 set I may need to update if so. How about the 30's?

Yes, all wheels are compatible. The original wheels from 2012 on. Now, the original wheels may be more challenging to seat, but there is no issue running them tubeless.

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

I can't seem to find the Stans kits for road bikes. Have they been discontinued?

Stan's is recommending that road users use the Stan's Yellow Rim Tape and their Standard Sealant for road. Below are a few notes we recommend when going tubeless and working with Stan's No Tubes Products

Rim Tape
Choose a rim tape size that is 2mm larger than your internal rim width. Stan's makes tape in 21mm, 25mm, 27mm, and 30mm. To make this easy we recommend the following tape sizes for our products.

First Generation FLO Wheels 2012-2015
21mm

Second Generation FLO Wheels 2016-2019
21mm

Third Generation FLO Wheels 2020-Current
All Sport Line: 25mm
Gravel Line: 27mm

Sealant
Use the standard sealant not the race sealant.

Extenders
We recommend you use a total valve length of rim depth + 15mm. To make this easy here are the total valve lengths we recommend for our products over the years.

2012-2015
FLO 60: 80mm
FLO 90: 110mm
FLO DISC: 48mm
FLO 30: 48mm

2016-2019
FLO 45 Carbon Clincher: 60mm
FLO 60 Carbon Clincher: 80mm
FLO 90 Carbon Clincher: 110mm
FLO DISC Carbon Clincher: 48mm
FLO 60 Aluminum + Carbon: 80mm
FLO 90 Aluminum + Carbon: 110mm
FLO DISC Aluminum + Carbon: 48mm

2020-Current
FLO 49 AS: 65mm
FLO 64 AS: 80mm
FLO 77 AS: 90mm
FLO G700: 70mm
FLO G650: 75mm

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

So there is no problem with tightening the valve stem nut against the carbon fairing? That was my concern, that you could damage the fairing...

---

"I'm thinking of a number between 1 and 10, and I don't know why!"

If you are tightening this enough to keep it secure you are ok. If you over tighten then yes, you could cause damage. There is no reason you cannot apply enough force to make tubeless work and not damage the fairing.

---

Jon Thornham
Co-Founder FLO Cycling

I hear the silca speed shields are good for distributing the pressure of a tubeless nut as well