clean chain, dry lube, should be good to go for quite a while indoors.
towel over the bars/headset and any obviously sweat soaked areas to reduce corrosion.

I wax my chain, indoors it lasts a long time. It's easy to relube (I rotate through 2 chains, so I just have to swap chains, plug in crockpot, drop chain in, take out after the workout is done and wipe off excess and hang to swap out the next time I want to lube) towel over the bars, headset and cable entry points. wipe down after rides.

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That's what I ask myself sometimes too.
Do not ride indoors so much as many here, but it will be once or twice a week in the winter.
Have not done anything to my chain in YEARS. Still seems to run smoothly.

I used to live on the esplanade in Cairns,Australia so I had the double whammy of sweating on the trainer and salt air from the Coral Sea.Now I have no doubt that the ST gurus will question the product but I used Vaseline on everything.Took out all the stem bolts,steerer tube and bolt,brake bolts,aerobar bolts,etc,etc,etc and covered them in Vaseline before putting them all back.Wiped all the cables,cable hangers,brake housing,etc,etc with a thin coat of Vaseline and never had any issues with corrosion.

I still do the same thing with my touring bike,panniers and trailer when I am on the road and never have any issues.

lube the chain with tons of thick, heavy wetlube.
Take the bike outside and hose it down after a heavy sweating session, then put it back on the trainer.

rinse and repeat.

And - keep your favourite bike locked up in the corner, lovingly lubed and polished and untainted by the winter.

I try to wipe down the bike pretty good after each ride (3-4 rides per week) and lube the chain the workout before each ramp test. That's about it for me but I'm using a dedicated trainer bike.

That's a really good idea!

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IG - @ryanppax
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Now I have no doubt that the ST gurus will question the product but I used Vaseline on everything
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My lbs guy suggested something similar, but instead of petroleum jelly, he recommended a clear car wax-type product for the bolts areas. Then cover the head tube with a towel or one of those indoor bike condoms.

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Take a short break from ST and read my blog:
http://tri-banter.blogspot.com/

After seeing some of the horror movies posted on Zwift FB groups, if you're using aluminum bars (even if you're using a bike guard, towels etc), you might want to consider re-taping them before taking the bike back out on the road so you can check for corrosion that might be hidden under the tape.

I'll apply a very little bit of grease to all the fasteners in the cockpit (both the threads and heads) to prevent corrosion. Then do a good check of the bike every few weeks to make sure theres's no sweat accumulating somewhere I didn't anticipate. Also found a hat helps keep sweat from pouring onto the headset area.

If you applied Vaseline (lubricant) to all the bolts I hope checked the correct torque for lubricated threads over dry threads. It’s not a small difference in torque

Hahaha I was waiting for a Slowtwitch tech geek to chime in. I just tighten the bloody things so the shit they are holding doesn't move..Never had an issue in 33 years of triathlons and bike touring so it is far too late in the game for me to change now. :-)

Ha ha... I’ll turn my geek up a notch then.

It’s different if you lubricant just the threads then if you lubricant the threads and the underside of the bolt head as well. The tightening friction is made up of 2 components, thread friction and head friction. They work together to turn your rotational turning into clamping force.

Glad to know your are safe and your method is working for you.

One example I always like to use when discussing torque , clamping force and friction is actually just the opposite of yours that people seem to be able to relate to.

We’ve all at one time or another cross threaded a bolt and nut. You get lots of torque and zero clamping force. Man the bolt is tight ( cross threaded ) , why does my seat post keep sliding down?

The big ones are the headset, and all the stem and aerobar bolts. If you are a really heavy sweater, the bottom bracket might get some abuse also.

Watch your wheels, especially the front wheel, you might start seeing some corrosion by the spoke nipples and maybe even brake track (assuming aluminum).

I usually put some plastic wrap over the stem/headset, and then towels on top.

I think it’s important to look at your derailleur hanger and make sure it’s securely fastened to the frame.

Here’s why — I take my Shiv TT bike on and off the Kickr all the time, and I think the stress of that, or just of using the bike on the trainer frequently was causing the two tiny screws that connect the hanger to the frame to come out. So one day, I was taking the bike off the trainer and the hanger came off the frame. I screwed it back on because the screws were still there, but then the same thing happened the next time.

I ended up replacing the hanger and it was an inexpensive remedy.

But you know those photos that people post where the hanger failed on an uphill effort, and the derailleur is pulled into the spokes and ruins the wheel and the derailleur? That’s what I think I prevented.

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Sharon McN
@IronCharo
#TeamZoot
Clif Bar Pace Team 2003-2018

Last year I tried to adjust the seat post on my trainer bike and discovered it had completely seized due to corrosion. It was like it was welded to the bike and wouldn’t move. The first bike shop I took it to said they couldn’t do anything and to try taking it to a machinist’s shop. Fortunately I found another bike shop that had the expertise to deal with it — I was relieved the carbon frame wasn’t damaged in the process. Lesson learned: If you have an aluminum seat post make sure you grease it. I hadn’t thought about other bolts and screws, but now that I read this thread I see that I have some more work to do.

Thanks that makes sense, will check the wheels for sure!

Thanks, any specific lube you recommend over another? I see some saying wax which I have not used before but will look into

Don’t use handlebar tape, keep bare and just use a good towel over handlebar so easy to clean.
Sweat loaded tape accelerates the corrosion.