Seal backwards

Dust cover can't be backwards. The seals are shaped like this. Note these are not the actual seals since it's pressfit, I just grabbed an image to show the basic shape of the seals. They into the BB not just set on outside.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

did you adjust the preload? If you didnt, you may have torqued the crank arm bolt down more and now have too much preload on the BB bearings.

Did the preload adjuster on the non-drive side move or twist, causing it to put more preload on the BB than before? Use a 2 or 2.5mm hex key to loosen it, then twist it to get the desired “play”.

There is no preload on the nondrive side. The bike (OEM) did not come with one. Here is a diagram of how it looked. I only have the green washers, I did not need the optional yellow ones. I do have wavy washer on nondrive side. This is how it came OEM.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

 


It took you thirty minutes to change a chainring?




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Once, I was fast. But I got over it.

Don't hate on him, he's an economist.

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https://www.strava.com/...tes/zachary_mckinney

Thanks for your contribution to the subject matter. I also took off spider to clean and then cleaned the area around the BB on the bike.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

If you took off the spider, did the all of the T25 bolts go back in the entire way? If so, can you remove the crank again and see if the BB bearings turn when you push on them with your finger — just in case something did happen when you reinstalled the crankset?

Sounds like the bearing might have been crushed in this, take the crank out, have a feel of the bearings, they might be stuffed.

Might be a trip to the local bike shop for this one.

Is it the same size chainring?

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They are adaptors, not bearing covers.
You have posted up picks of two different types of BB.

If you are running a BB30 as you have shown in the diagram, then if you have fit the dust cover/seals in backwards, they will drag on the bearing seal face.
Make sure any raised lettering on them face outwards and that the slightly raised centre circumference mates with the bearing inner race.

You will either have a wavy washer or a mechanism to set the preload.
With either of those, the tightness of the crank fixing bolt will influence the preload and it is common for inexperienced people to not torque to spec and just do it up too tight and increase the preload above design.

Exactly. I’d back off the nondrive crankarm a bit and see if it spins then. Also, did you use a torque wrench?

I did use a torque wrench. The BB is PF30, the crank spindle has both BB30 and PF30 written on it. Assuming that's just to show it works for both. I showed the BB30 because it's the only image I could find that had the wavy washer on the nondrive side. No preload.

I have a wavy washer on the nondrive side, which is how it came OEM. I never removed the washers, etc. from the spindle when I took it off (nondrive) so I know that side is correct. There was only a dust cover (picture) and one washer on drive side. Two items. That's it.

I backed off the torque a little but then there is play in the crank.

It's so frustrating because I swap cranks on my bikes all the time. I have a Quarq that bounces from road bike to tri bike a few times a month.

I may just change my BB, which I guess is good. I can change it to accept my Quarq (GXP). Wasn't going too since it's a gravel bike and power is not so relevant on gravel. It's $80 for new BB. I'm thinking taking my bike to LBS would cost similar.

I cursed a lot on this one. So simple but not working.

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The curious task of economics is to demonstrate to men how little they really know about what they imagine they can design.

Is this the first time you've taken this particular crank off of this bike since buying it? If so, it's likely that whoever put it together just reduced the torque rather than put in correct spacers/washers. Try backing off the torque ever so slightly until it spins freely, without introducing play in the cranks. For the proper fix, try a thinner washer (may need series of them since the thinner ones are quite a bit thinner).

Point is that if you back off and it spins freely, but not when it is torqued to spec, then likely not the BB and is the spacing or something I put together correctly, but not the bb. Especially If you don’t feel any grit or hesitation, or hear any grinding in the bb.

I'd also take out the spindle clean it real good and in particular inspect the inside wall of the bearings for grit/stones. Its possible in the transition something fell into a different position and when you put the crank back in you pushed some grit against the inside of the bearing cup or something and it is fouling when torqued up.