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Hardwood Floor install questions
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Getting ready to do some more hardwood floor install in my house and have run into a couple questions I am trying to find the best answer to. Luckily I am more organized than this rambling post may indicate.

Joists run top to bottom so flooring will run left/right. This entire area will get the same flooring. Using 4" Brazillain Cherry/jatoba so very hard and strong. I've installed this same flooring before so familiar with the product.

Front door is at top left, and it appears to get the correct spacing at the door I will need to start there as I need to tuck the floor under the frame a bit there and I don't think there is room to clear the tongue on the last board and get a good fit with the frame.

At the closet I can use a spline and change the direction I am laying the floor so no issues there. I plan to measure and adjust the first board at the front door to make sure I don't end up with a sliver of a board at the carpet junction (Green) directly across from the door.

This is where we get the issues. There is a door at the top of the stairs with a bull nose piece (blue) that will go at the top of the stair. The wife wants a border (red) consisting of two boards running top/bottom between the entry and the dining room to give some separation between the two areas. There is no way to match the exact distance between the gooved bull nose on one side and the tongue or groove flooring at the border with the flooring as is.

So I have two thoughts and if someone has a third, I am all ears.

One is to use the tongue/groove connection at the border between the entry and dining area and butt joint at the bullnose above the stairs. That joint will be in the doorway and if I am afraid of stability I can put a piece of flooring behind it running the same direction and butt joint against that. The joint will be at least partially hidden by the door.

The other is to cut a tongue myself on the last boards at the bullnose so the tongues are at the right place. I am afraid of the precision needed for this and worry that it will look worse than a butt joint and if it isn't precise enough not give me any more stability there than a butt joint anyway.

So would you do a butt joint at the bull nose, cut tongues at the right place to fit the bull nose, or go a third way I have not considered?


I'm beginning to think that we are much more fucked than I thought.
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [j p o] [ In reply to ]
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I am assuming you have a table saw to rip boards where needed. If not, you need one as it will save you a boat load of time. A good table saw, fence and dado blade set to the needed width of the tongue and groove should allow you to make the tongue and groove with enough precision to make it look like it should. The bull nose piece will likely already be nailed in place from the top, you can then install that piece last into the tough and groove, then nail home and set the nails as necessary. I would recommend nailing this piece with a larger nail then what you are installing the floor with, then using a nail set to drive home (4D vs. 16/18 gauge the rest of the floor will be nailed). Fill if you want as the hardness of the wood may not close the hole well.
Last edited by: shoff14: Mar 20, 19 12:07
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [shoff14] [ In reply to ]
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I knew the right answer was to cut the tongues in, but I was hoping someone would tell me, "oh no, the butt joint works great." :)

I've never tried cutting new tongues before. I suppose I should go home and practice while I wait for the floor to acclimate. My fear is that I would leave more gaps trying to do that. Lots of dry fitting and measuring in my future i suppose.

I'm beginning to think that we are much more fucked than I thought.
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [j p o] [ In reply to ]
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You can buy dado blade sets in multiple widths. Some sets will come with a variety of widths. Some blades will come in one width. It really just depends on what you want to buy and how much you want to spend. Secondly, to get the width more exact. You can buy dado blade shims. These are either plastic or metal that already have an arbor hole punched in them for under $10. Just buy blade set, plus shim set to match the arbor diameter of your saw. You will be able to get your tongue dead on with a shim set.

Practice and then sand lightly by hand to get the fit tight. I think you will find using a dado blade is much easier than you are thinking it is. Getting your depth correct will be harder than getting the width correct.
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [j p o] [ In reply to ]
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I bought a special router bit when I did this but I had a lot of it to do because the wife wanted a fancy border around the entire room. Worked great though.
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [knewbike] [ In reply to ]
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knewbike wrote:
I bought a special router bit when I did this but I had a lot of it to do because the wife wanted a fancy border around the entire room. Worked great though.

A router table and fence would work well too with the correct bit. Not well versed on router bits though, there are thousands of them!
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [shoff14] [ In reply to ]
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shoff14 wrote:
knewbike wrote:
I bought a special router bit when I did this but I had a lot of it to do because the wife wanted a fancy border around the entire room. Worked great though.


A router table and fence would work well too with the correct bit. Not well versed on router bits though, there are thousands of them!


Router bit with table is the way to go. Honestly, even just a palm router with no table is preferable to the dado blade, so long as your protect the base of the router with tape so it doesn't scratch the hardwood.

It works Waayy better then a table saw/dado combo, plus you don't have to switch back and forth between dado and regular blade. I'd call a flooring supply place and ask about the correct spline cutting bit for the thickness of the tongue you are using.

Long Chile was a silly place.
Last edited by: BCtriguy1: Mar 20, 19 13:14
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [BCtriguy1] [ In reply to ]
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BCtriguy1 wrote:
shoff14 wrote:
knewbike wrote:
I bought a special router bit when I did this but I had a lot of it to do because the wife wanted a fancy border around the entire room. Worked great though.


A router table and fence would work well too with the correct bit. Not well versed on router bits though, there are thousands of them!


Router bit with table is the way to go. Honestly, even just a palm router with no table is preferable to the dado blade, so long as your protect the base of the router with tape so it doesn't scratch the hardwood.

It works Waayy better then a table saw/dado combo, plus you don't have to switch back and forth between dado and regular blade. I'd call a flooring supply place and ask about the correct spline cutting bit for the thickness of the tongue you are using.[/quote]

See, this is why I posted. Hadn't thought of that and I am sure they can hook me up.

I'm beginning to think that we are much more fucked than I thought.
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Re: Hardwood Floor install questions [j p o] [ In reply to ]
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There are dedicated tounge and groove bits, but I use a stackable set to deal with different width boards. If you only want to do one width go with a dedicated set. Especially if they have a setup block for them. If you don't have a setup block cut for tongues first, then use that to set your groove height.
Your dense wood may require a couple of light passes to keep the cut clean
Edit to add, I have found infinity tools to be a great source for quality bits.

Jim
"In dog beers, I've only had one"
http://www.shakercolonial.com/
Creating custom made furnishing to your requirements
Last edited by: jriosa: Mar 20, 19 16:52
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