I am working my P5X compact crank conversion. I got FD mounting, chainrings, chain, powerlink etc all sorted. I decided last night to play around a bit with the FD tuning, which was working pretty nicely already. I had just a bit of chain rubbing on the inboard ring, smallest rear cog = no big deal. Anyway, quickly looked at a few videos, nothing remarkable.
What I usually do is take one screw tweak it and see if/how the derailleur moves, then go from there.
OK buried in the SRAM install video is this little gem "if the high limit screw is adjusted while in the inboard position, the derailleur can be damaged permanently" Plus the hi-limit screw is reverse threaded.
I can confirm that :(
What happens is if you go a bit too far, the screw gets hopelessly stuck or jammed in the positioning block and it's impossible to retract. Then I stripped the head as I tried to back it out.
Options at this point:
1. Buy a new FD $$$
2. Dismantle the whole thing = yikes, springs, xx hours etc
3. Go for broke at the set screw with a drill
I chose option#3 because I could do that right away in my disgust. Drilling the screw was not easy. I had to go to a router bit to basically pummel the screw so I could finally extract what was left. It's a tough beggar. I was left with a oversize hole of course. That sized to a M5 tap, which was able to run through with conventional thread (ie not reverse threaded).
I have plenty of M5 screws and socket cap screw. Made some of those up- but they were just grazing the crank arm. It's a very tight fit in the outboard position. Funny thing, I needed an M5 set screw and managed to find exactly what I needed hanging around in my tool box, in a dusty compartment!
Seems to be all good. Top screw in photo. Back in business for now, but I am curious as to why the top screw was reverse-threaded ?
Training Tweets: https://twitter.com/Jagersport_com
FM Sports: http://fluidmotionsports.com
What I usually do is take one screw tweak it and see if/how the derailleur moves, then go from there.
OK buried in the SRAM install video is this little gem "if the high limit screw is adjusted while in the inboard position, the derailleur can be damaged permanently" Plus the hi-limit screw is reverse threaded.
I can confirm that :(
What happens is if you go a bit too far, the screw gets hopelessly stuck or jammed in the positioning block and it's impossible to retract. Then I stripped the head as I tried to back it out.
Options at this point:
1. Buy a new FD $$$
2. Dismantle the whole thing = yikes, springs, xx hours etc
3. Go for broke at the set screw with a drill
I chose option#3 because I could do that right away in my disgust. Drilling the screw was not easy. I had to go to a router bit to basically pummel the screw so I could finally extract what was left. It's a tough beggar. I was left with a oversize hole of course. That sized to a M5 tap, which was able to run through with conventional thread (ie not reverse threaded).
I have plenty of M5 screws and socket cap screw. Made some of those up- but they were just grazing the crank arm. It's a very tight fit in the outboard position. Funny thing, I needed an M5 set screw and managed to find exactly what I needed hanging around in my tool box, in a dusty compartment!
Seems to be all good. Top screw in photo. Back in business for now, but I am curious as to why the top screw was reverse-threaded ?
Training Tweets: https://twitter.com/Jagersport_com
FM Sports: http://fluidmotionsports.com
