I can’t recommend any fitters beyond the good folks here via video uploads. But I did get positive feedback from that process.

For a road bike bodge, you’re probably partly on your own because to do it effectively you will likely be throwing some unusual parts at it that a fitter might not have on hand. In short, you have to rotate your bum up and forwards and your bars down and forwards, around the bottom bracket, quite a lot.

It might not look pretty, but a decent position can be achieved, if you do all these things:

Aero bars: as low (ie elbow pad stack height above the bars) as possible. I have some of the older 3T bars that are inline with the base bar. The Profile Subsonic is the best current similar one, or an under-mount of which there are many.

Stem: something with a lot of downward angle like a MTB stem upside down, or a track stem (eg BBB BHS-24 or a Cinelli Pista). Long, not short (the steeper angle eats up some of the effective reach - cosine(theta)).

A seatpost that can be offset forwards. Profile Fast Forward is good, but you can find similar cheaper, just with not as much offset.

A saddle that lets you rotate your pelvis, eg an ISM or similar. The length of an ISM and your position on it will make up for not having such a steep post.

My basic method to achieve a decent position was to bone up on Slowman’s fit articles, work out what saddle to bar drop I needed based on his static fit calculations, then find a stem that got me that low. So learn to use a tape measure to determine your reach, stack, and Pad X/Y.

I didn’t add the saddle and post until later, but both are an absolute must-do if you don’t want to waste your money trying to fit up a road bike and road saddle/layback seatpost with aero bars only.

Final nice touches are bar end shifters and a dedicated base bar. (and probably shorter cranks, but then you're getting more expensive.)

If I were looking for a fitter, I would call every fitter in the area and talk to them. See what kind of vibe you get. Bedside manner and communication are so key to the fitter providing you a good service. Calling and talking to them can help you gauge their potential. Are they easy to talk to? Do they listen to you? Do they seem like someone who will focus on your needs? How do they approach your fit?

Fitting is both art and science. The science is the easier part. As a fitter, I have certainly have had some really good results and some not-so-good results. I am never happy with my work and always feel that when I come up short, it's because I used the right science to come up with the wrong art. I gave you a Monet when you wanted a Picasso.
Everybody who walks through the door is a new challenge and a clean canvas. My best bike fit is the next one.

There are a lot of really good fitters, but we can't be good without you. A bike fit is a team effort, and any good team has to communicate well. What will separate the adequate fitter from the spectacular fitter is the ability to get inside your head, understand your needs, and provide a solution that meets your objectives.

So, reach out and see if you find someone who seems to get you, and I think you'll be happiest. I hope that helps!

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Travis Rassat
Vector Cycle Works
Noblesville, IN
BikeFit Instructor | FMS | F.I.S.T. | IBFI
Toughman Triathlon Series Ambassador

You can start here:

https://www.slowtwitch.com/...pectations_3595.html

Slowman used to have a list of articles related to your question over on the right...but, it seems to be gone now.

I've had 4 fits - - two were simple set-up type fits when I purchased a new bike and two were full-on "let's dial this in" fits.

The best advice I can give you:

1. Don't let the fitter turn your 3-hour fit into 90 minutes (60 of which is spent measuring flexibility and switching out parts)
2. Come prepared with patience
3. Come prepared ready to actually ride
4. Go to the fit studio BEFORE buying the fit. The outcomes of both my "professional" fits were easily predictable based on the studio after seeing it in person. A website with pictures and a list of services can very easily misrepresent the skill/engagement of the fitter.

My experience is, if you let them, the fitter will put you in a position and ask "How does that feel?" If you say, "Fine", you'll find yourself out the door lickity-split. You need to ride at power and for time to let those uncomfortable points appear. This is also why you need to go prepared to ride and with your patience because you may need to try 3, 4, 5 positions for 10 minutes at a time to realize any differences.

My first fit was on a bike that put me in a hundred different positions for like 10 seconds each. No actual riding under load. I ended up with something that was very much more aggressive than what I went in with but yielded no gains at all during the racing season.

The last fit I had was supposed to be Retul with all kinds of analysis. I drove an hour to get there and when I arrived, the fitter said they weren't going to set up the Retul bike because they really didn't need it and the bike was currently configured for a kid so they needed to make lots of adjustments. Really? That fit was a complete waste of money.

Some fitters list these services (for example):

Physical Assessment

Foot Structure Analysis

Cleat & Shoe Analysis (shims and wedges at an additional cost)

Initial 3D Motion Capture & Bike Fit Assessment

Dynamic Fit Adjustments

Post-Adjustment 3D Motion Capture w/Video Assessment

Pre & Post Monitoring of Pulse and Oxygen Saturation

Post-Fit Digital Bike Scan

Comprehensive Post Fit Report via Email.

Dynamic Fit Session includes Fitting at least three effective seat Angles w/Pulse and Oxygen Saturation levels monitored

Video Capture Utilization Included when indicated

If you are going to choose a fitter who sells this stuff, you should ask to see what the final product looks like for an actual fit they've done. The two fits I've had that promised this type of stuff either didn't deliver, delivered something that was just a few dots on a graph, or said these parts weren't working properly that day.

At one of my fits, I was told (at the end of the fit after I was off the bike) that I could switch to 165 cranks from the 172.5 I was riding. When I pushed pros/cons, I got word salad. No additional testing, just "Do what feels good. Give it a try".

I don't mean to bash fitters. I'm just suggesting that before hiring them, you interview them like you would the guy replacing your roof. If they say they will replace the shingles, you have to ask, "What shingles are you replacing and with what brand shingles are you replacing them with? What techniques will you use to remove the old shingles and attach the new ones?"

Get specific with your questions both before and during the fit. If you get lots of bland, generic answers from your prospective fitter, go elsewhere because you are going to a bland, generic fit.

Here's what I write on this every year.

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Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

I'm in the same boat as you kawasaki, I'll adapt my road bike for triathlon.

I can already suggest to find a second 27.2 mm seatpost (If you keep the CAAD). This one will be used for your TT/Tri setup, probably the setback will be placed forward to achieve a correct TT/Tri position. And you'll only have one bolt to unscrew-screw to swap the (seatpost-saddle) ''combo'' when you go from Tri workouts to road setup.
You won't be upgrading much by buying a new road bike IMHO, as a CAAD10 is a very good road machine.
I personally would invest in a TT/Tri bike.
.

Louis :)