QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes

Nov 5, 18 13:18

Post #1 of 20 (2101 views)

I've had my CD0.1 for 5 years and it's generally been really good to me, with the exception of the rear brakes. They constantly get gummed up and "stuck" after applying the brakes. In those cases I have to stop, dismount, and manually pull the rear brakes apart or they will rub on my rim very badly. I'm then left to finish my ride with only my front brakes until I can get them cleaned out (either by my local shop or occasionally I'll do the cleaning.)

So the CD0.1 has these 2 little set screws that screw into the frame as part of the brake setup. For the front brakes, these are never a problem. I have worked on my front brakes many, many times with no issue.

The rear brakes, however, are another story. One of the set screws has never... never... been usable. I didn't need to actually use the screw until _after_ the warranty was up. During bike check in at IMTX in 2017 I took it to the QR booth because my rear brakes were rubbing (this was the first occurrence of this problem) and the QR tech said that the screw is stuck permanently and it's part of the frame... so there's nothing they can do. He was able to (with much difficulty) get my brakes working again. It took him, _the_ QR bike tech at least 30 minutes to simply take the brakes off and put them back on.

Now, 13 days before IM Cozumel, my rear brakes are rubbing again. When I go to take the rear set screw out that has been working, the hex key just spins. It's stripped out just like the other one.

So I'm guessing that I'm pretty much SOL, no? Anyone have _any_ experience with these CD0.1 brakes that could give me some pointers?

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 5, 18 14:27

Post #2 of 20 (2080 views)

replace it

https://quintanarootri.com/collections/parts-accessories/products/trp-922-1-rear-brake-caliper-for-cd0-1

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [Clutch Cargo] [ In reply to ]

Nov 5, 18 14:33

Post #3 of 20 (2074 views)

I'm pretty sure the caliper is fine. I'm thinking the problem I'd the set screws.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 8:55

Post #4 of 20 (2023 views)

I have a 2012 cd 0.1 and although I have loved that bike, the one recurring problem I have had is with those rear brakes! In the past I’ve used the spacers to widen the break pads, or adjusted the cable to the proper length due to the same problem you are having. A lot of the time for races I end up riding my rear brake a little on the loose side because I’m not able to get the brakes to the right spot without rubbing.

Good luck!

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 8:57

Post #5 of 20 (2022 views)

After a few years of giving the CD01 brakes an honest effort - reading and following everything written on the “right” setup, keeping them clean and tuned, replacing bitty parts that looked worn, etc - the only true solution I arrived at was replacing then with direct mount brakes from tri rig.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [davetallo] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 9:02

Post #6 of 20 (2017 views)

Would you happen to have an pictures of the tririg brakes on your CD01?

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 9:05

Post #7 of 20 (2013 views)

I’ll post later tonight.

From a purely functional perspective, the tri rig actually brake, in comparison to the stock TRPs.

It’s rather a nice feature to have in a brake.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 9:48

Post #8 of 20 (2001 views)

Horrible brakes! Even the upgraded TRP-922 is garbage and overpriced. However, I didn't realize how bad they were until I upgraded to a DB Serios AF earlier this year. It came with a direct mount Shimano Dura Ace (BR-9110-R). It works great with excellent modulation. It's design negates the need for the set screws with 1 large spring used for the return action. Just another option that would work for you and might be easier and quicker to procure.

Good luck in Cozumel! I will also be there racing with my cousin.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 10:25

Post #9 of 20 (1989 views)

I switched my rear brake to a Shimano (105?) Direct mount. It's been better, but not perfect. And at 1/10th the cost of a tri rig, a no brainer.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [davetallo] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 10:26

Post #10 of 20 (1986 views)

I'm curious to see how this went as well.

Did you replace the front brake as well? (If so, I assume you'd al so be replacing the fork.)

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [gmh39] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 11:00

Post #11 of 20 (1977 views)

Front brake is also a tri rig, on a deeeeeeep Blackwell bandit fork.

But the original fork/brake combo reportedly tested just as fast. And that original TRP front brake actually worked, unlike the rear.

Last edited by: davetallo: Nov 6, 18 11:38

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 13:33

Post #12 of 20 (1940 views)

Hi, m_reese.

The set screws in the frame were put there so the spring pressure of the brake could be adjusted beyond what the brake offered alone. This set of screws usually isn't necessary, but gave and added range of spring bias from left to right.

Your problem sounds to be cable friction or a dirty brake. If our tech removed the brake from the bike, the brake mounting posts were cleaned, greased and brake functioned for IMTX? It sounds as if this was just enough to get you through the race and didn't last as long as you'd have liked. I completely sympathize. For a 100% solution, I suggest having a mechanic who loves cabling (not all do) replace the cable, housing, and possibly the routing tube which feeds into the brake. This little routing tube often gets kinked and causes excess cable friction. If the cable housing has kinks or wear causing the cable drag, it is often in the stem and handlebar area.

Yes, the TRP brake doesn't setup as easy as a conventional caliper. However, when all the necessary maintenance and setup is done, it should serve you well. The key to long term reliability for you is how it is cabled. A nice clean job without too much excess housing should greatly improve your current situation.

Brad DeVaney
QR

Last edited by: B DeVaney: Nov 6, 18 13:35

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [B DeVaney] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 14:59

Post #13 of 20 (1928 views)

Thanks Brad. I dropped the bike off at Playtri this morning and they recommended replacing cables and housing first. We'll also look at a different caliper. I was under the impression those set screws were required for functionality. I'll chalk it up to pre-IM stress levels.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 15:25

Post #14 of 20 (1926 views)

Only halfway serious as I replaced my rear brake w a tririg one, but how much do you rely on your rear brake? I replace my front pads twice as often on any bike I ride.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [fisherman76] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 15:36

Post #15 of 20 (1922 views)

Not that much, but I'd like to be able to use them without manually opening them back up.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 17:29

Post #16 of 20 (1900 views)

I've got the same bike/rear brake. It's a PITA. I've had the thing apart (off the bike) a couple of times. I recabled. Still, twitchy as hell. In my case, those set screws appear to do next to nothing. They move in and out easily, but I can't tell that they are anything but a placebo. Finally got things dialed it. The clearance between the pads and the rim is practically zero - any more and there isn't enough pull to really get any braking. I'm looking forward to the pic of the alternative brake setup... As far as your stuck set screw...the diameter is small, so forces are not high. You might be able to clean the screw recess and dry it - clean the end of a long hex wrench that fits as well as possible and you don't might tossing. Then epoxy them together. That ought to get the set screw out - as long as you don't epoxy the screw to the inside of the hole in the frame...

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [giorgitd] [ In reply to ]

Nov 6, 18 17:38

Post #17 of 20 (1895 views)

Truth. I'm on ENVE 8.9s and the rim clearance is very, very tight on the front and back. When I'm really getting after it on a climb I hear the pads rubbing on the front rim because of the flex (I assume). I start counting the watts I'm losing and prepare the excuses if my training buddy beats me to the top, ha.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 7, 18 6:29

Post #18 of 20 (1861 views)

We love wide wheels.

Please make sure there is no spacer between the brake pad holder and brake arm. If so, move the spacer to outside the brake arm with the concave side of the spacer facing outward, cradling the head of the bolt. This will increase rim width capability by 6mm before any cable adjustment (if even necessary).

Thanks, m_reese!

Brad DeVaney
QR

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [m_reese] [ In reply to ]

Nov 7, 18 7:51

Post #19 of 20 (1846 views)

I just make sure the rear brake doesn’t rub and then never use it :)

Most of your stopping power is on the front so you rarely have to use the rear brake anyway.

Re: QR CD0.1 Rear Brakes [jth] [ In reply to ]

Nov 7, 18 8:34

Post #20 of 20 (1836 views)

This is also my strategy.

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