I am thinking pedal-based, but does that literally enable me to switch between tribike and roadbike -as with normal pedals- without extensive calibration/installation etc? TIA
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Re: Which power meter should I buy [Pmswanepoel]
[ In reply to ]
You'll want to do a zero offset before each ride, so that includes when swapping bikes.
And, if you have different crank lengths it might be a PITA (depending on what watch/head unit you have) to change that setting.
Other than that, it's as simple as changing pedals.
I can recommend the Favero Assioma. Fully potted internals should mean that you (or I) won't have to worry about any water/condensation issues.
And, if you have different crank lengths it might be a PITA (depending on what watch/head unit you have) to change that setting.
Other than that, it's as simple as changing pedals.
I can recommend the Favero Assioma. Fully potted internals should mean that you (or I) won't have to worry about any water/condensation issues.
Last edited by:
minimalist: Oct 31, 18 1:18
Re: Which power meter should I buy [Pmswanepoel]
[ In reply to ]
steer clear of the vector 3s. ive had nothing but problems with not one, but TWO. after the fiasco with the first set i finally told garmin i wanted my money back. great customer service and great reps that ive talked to, they offered a brand new set that supposedly fixed all the issues.
here i am now with constant connectivity and drop out issues using bluetooth. they cant even connect to my phone to properly sync.
im still within my year warranty. im going to be contacting them again and returning and getting some of the favero assiomas.
80/20 Endurance Ambassador
here i am now with constant connectivity and drop out issues using bluetooth. they cant even connect to my phone to properly sync.
im still within my year warranty. im going to be contacting them again and returning and getting some of the favero assiomas.
80/20 Endurance Ambassador
Last edited by:
damon.lebeouf: Oct 31, 18 1:50
Re: Which power meter should I buy [Pmswanepoel]
[ In reply to ]
Hello
2 years ago I was looking for a power meter to use on my TT/Tri bike, track bike and road bike. Only possibility for simple swap was to go with pedal based.
Power Tap P1s (single side version of P1) was my 2016 Christmas gift. At this time Vector installation was much more complicated, with strong torque carefully calibrated needed.
I'm using it for nearly two years, constantly swaping from my TT (P3 / Rotor crank) road (Time / Shimano crank) and track (Dolan / Sugino crank). And I'm very happy with it.
You install it like a normal pair of pedal (no specific torque needed)
It connect to my Garmin Edge 510 (now 5 year old, 2013 Christmas Gift) and my Garmin FR935 (one year old, 2017 Christmas gift). Both collect the data.
You perform a zero calibration from the Edge. Take 10 second.
And that's it.
When the 510 indicate low battery, I swap the AAA battery. Take 5mn.
Edit : Regarding crank length, I'm 172.5 mm on all 3 bikes. But these values are indicated as parameter in each bike profile. When swapping, I also change bike profile, was already doing that before, because each bike have its own other captors (wheel rotation for speed indoor on the track bike, ...)
Perfectly happy with it. Work well, reliable (never an issue), power measure is fine (sometime compared to a Stage left crank arm Shimano), swap is really easy. It is like having a power meter on each bike.
Apparently Power Tap is now issuing P2, and probably later P2s.
2 years ago I was looking for a power meter to use on my TT/Tri bike, track bike and road bike. Only possibility for simple swap was to go with pedal based.
Power Tap P1s (single side version of P1) was my 2016 Christmas gift. At this time Vector installation was much more complicated, with strong torque carefully calibrated needed.
I'm using it for nearly two years, constantly swaping from my TT (P3 / Rotor crank) road (Time / Shimano crank) and track (Dolan / Sugino crank). And I'm very happy with it.
You install it like a normal pair of pedal (no specific torque needed)
It connect to my Garmin Edge 510 (now 5 year old, 2013 Christmas Gift) and my Garmin FR935 (one year old, 2017 Christmas gift). Both collect the data.
You perform a zero calibration from the Edge. Take 10 second.
And that's it.
When the 510 indicate low battery, I swap the AAA battery. Take 5mn.
Edit : Regarding crank length, I'm 172.5 mm on all 3 bikes. But these values are indicated as parameter in each bike profile. When swapping, I also change bike profile, was already doing that before, because each bike have its own other captors (wheel rotation for speed indoor on the track bike, ...)
Perfectly happy with it. Work well, reliable (never an issue), power measure is fine (sometime compared to a Stage left crank arm Shimano), swap is really easy. It is like having a power meter on each bike.
Apparently Power Tap is now issuing P2, and probably later P2s.
Last edited by:
Pyrenean Wolf: Oct 31, 18 2:31
Re: Which power meter should I buy [Pmswanepoel]
[ In reply to ]
Yes. I have the PowerTap P1, and I routinely swap them between my TT bike and road bike. It takes less than 5 minutes to swap them. There are no special installation, alignment, or calibration steps any different from a normal set of pedals. They are perfect for this application.
Assioma FTW!!! Love em and the battery lasts forever!