Thanks

To make it work required a mod not for the faint of heart... I did the top tube mod for FD/RD cables as well as the diy rivet tool mod to allow a bento box to be directly mounted. Obviously both void your warranty considering it involves drilling into your top tube. I got help from a carbon materials guy to ensure safety.

you might...MIGHT gain 30s over 40k by buying a $6k P5 with the way your p2c is setup.

I don't know... do you need more reach than your P2s have? Nick showed the 56 P5 was slower than a 54 P2 set up with his parts.

Oh hm why didn’t they use the same size bikes to compare oranges to oranges

Just found a “new” P3 frameset...I want to wait and try the 51 speedshop bars...but even with this base bar and extensions...I don’t think this is much different than a P5...and I just love these older cervelo bikes...

Isn't that the "old" P3C frameset?

Yes...”new” frame set was meant as it was a brand new item...not the actual newest model

I ride a 2009 P2C, cables are not routed great, cockpit is pretty basic, BTA hydration, Flo AL/Carbon wheels, normal rim brakes. I have let several people try it out, several did not fit well on it, and all of them ride much newer and more expensive bikes. Most agreed that the P2C felt just as fast as their bike. The P2C is a timeless classic. IMO most of the newer tech that gives you substantial aero benefits can be bolted onto the P2C. Wheels, cockpit, etc.

Knighty76 - I have a similar P2 frame as what you have (might even be the same year based on what I can see of the color scheme, 2010) and curious how you got the front/rear shifter cables so well hidden since they enter on the side of the bike frame

I'm actually in the same boat as this whole thread in that I have a 2010 Cervelo P2 with the stock basebar/aero extensions and considering upgrading to a new bike or getting a TriRig Alpha One setup with a gamma front brake

Thanks

Did you drill new holes into your top tube to not use the side entry for the shifter cables?

Yes... Under the careful eye of an expert in materials who works in the automotive field. It involved multiple drill bits, protective cover and some sealant.

http://www.codybeals.com/2013/04/cervelo-p21-diy-internal-cable-routing/
It's pretty easy if you are careful.


I just got a Plasma 5 this year after riding a 2007 P2C for a loooong time. The 5 is faster but it's not by a lot. I'd say 45s over 40k based on my rides this year.


The P2C has the cable routing mentioned above and Zipp Vuka Stealth front end. I didn't ever do the tririg brakes and that would of been even better. I still love that P2C but I got a great deal on the Plasma and pulled the trigger.

It is a really good method, but I would have a proper think about using segmented housing like in my piccy. It really simplifies the job because instead of having to bond some tubing or liner under the end cap, you just leave some extra inner liner to run into the frame and clear the bend. It'll make sense when you've read Cody's thing.

awesome, thanks so much for the help

how long ago did you do that and have you seen any degradation over time with the frame or excessive cable wear?

I'm in the same boat here and have done everything here short of drilling my top tube for the cables. Has anyone used something like the X-Shifter to remove the need to do so? Seems like I could go to 1x by removing my front derailleur and changing my chainring, and I'd be all set. Their TT shifter button seems dumb to have out in the wind up front, but I like the look of the mini pod