Di2 auto-trims depending on what gear you are in on the cassette. No "half click" anymore (just 2 modes for small and big chainring). But setting it up is the same as a mechanical to have enough clearance for big-small and small-big combos for the limit screws.

The FD does make an automatic adjustment as you run through the cog to minimize rubbing. BUT - that working all depends on the derailleur being set up right to begin with. It is possible to be off just a little and negate the auto adjust such that the FD will not shift. It is a semi dumb machine. It counts on being in a certain known spot under a set known condition so it can move exactly to the next spot. Start it out adjusted to the wrong spot and it won't work right and no amount of fiddling is going to fix it..

This is important - You don't "adjust" electronic shifting like you do manual shifting. With electronic shifting, it is all about setting the correct starting point. The motor and electronics take care of the rest. The magic about electronic shifting is the derailleurs move exactly the same amount with each button click every time. Set them up to the right specs and they work. If the instructions say the tolerance for setting up a certain gap or measurement is .5mm, you need to get out the feeler gauge set and make the setting.

If you make those setting accurately and it still does not work, or you cannot get all the required measurements set at the same time, something other than the derailleur is jacked up. At that point you need to start looking at stuff like whether the chain rings are where they are supposed to be (e.g. bottom bracket issues) or if the derailleur itself is not mounted right (although that is a measurement spec you should be able to check).

Di2 does that automatically, depending on the position of the rd. You don't have to tell it to.

^^this. Follow the Shimano instructions in order. They designed a process that works repeatably.

I would add is that given it’s a new frame, it could be out of spec. Check that the front mech fitting is lined up with the chainrings - outside vertical edge should be vertical and in line with chainrings.

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Developing aero, fit and other fun stuff at Red is Faster

Fuck. Just found out FD is busted. Low limit screw is stripped. Not the screw but the Hinge it's self. Shop says no fixing it. Bought it via ST but I suspect that I am responsible for breaking it.

Fuck!!!!!

So the thread on the H-Limit 'tube' is stripped, right?

I've used a Helicoil (I think you need a 2.5mm) with great success. It might be worth considering as an alternative to replacing the derailleur.

Yeah I think I'm going to attempt to do that where did you procure the screws for it then

I got a helicoil kit from ebay (see my previous response for the link of an example kit).

Do you know what spec limit screw is used (like M2.5, or M3, or M4)? That will determine what kit you should get.

Factory screw was 2mm

Ok. I assume this is an M2 screw then. ...From this site "The actual diameter of an M3 screw is usually about 2.9mm, an M2.5 screw is 2.4mm and an M2 is 1.9mm".

In this case, you need an M2 helicoil thread repair kit like this.

LAI wrote:

Just for clarification this is 9070 not 9150.

This is the correct one for that model.


http://si.shimano.com/...DM-DA0001-09-ENG.pdf

What worked for me was to connect my front mech to a derailleur cable.