what i learned, after my first weimaraner wore a gentle leader - they can be bad for their neck, if there is a sudden movement.
we switched to this
https://ruffwear.com/.../front-range-harness
and this leash
https://smile.amazon.com/...ge?ie=UTF8&psc=1
it has a springy part in it, so there is less chance that you will be yanked off your feet.

our rescue dog had a mysterious episode (just a few hours), and the vet suspects maybe some neurological issue, so the dog only runs very short, slow runs.

To teach directions (left,right,straight), do you just say it at every crossing and they picked up on it? Any other tips? I love running with my pup, and I think directions would be a good step for him!

Yup, we run in suburban neighborhoods often, so lots of opportunities for directional guidance. They both caught on fast, especially if you repeat the same course with some frequency. You *think* that they are just learning the pattern until, one day, you're on a new course and say 'right' approaching an choice and *boom* we go right. Don't forget the praise when they get it correctly during the early training. With the puppy, I'll slow down, praise and pet when she gets a direction correctly. I generally call out the direction just before we need to make a decision and then reinforce as we're making the turn - left, good!

I'm a cat person

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"What's your claim?" - Ben Gravy
"Your best work is the work you're excited about" - Rick Rubin

Every dog is different, but a few key things to consider...
1.) Don't run with a puppy. Leash train on walks first. Resist running with them until around 12-14 months old. The bigger the dog is supposed to grow, the longer you should wait, it will reduce the risk of hip problems later in life. (Growth plates fusing, etc., etc.)
2.) (Most) Dogs are much less tolerant of heat than humans. Their only means of sweating is through their tongue. If it's hot or sunny, keep it short and bring water, or better yet, don't bring them along.
3.) Dogs need to build up to distance just like humans. Don't assume their first run will be 5 miles long. They seek to please, so they'll probably suck it up and do it, but that doesn't mean it's good for them.

Or you could just train the dog properly and not need something over its snout. It's not hard.

my dog and I used to run a ton when it was cold enough. She's a german shepherd, smaller than some at 65-70# and loves to be outside. I'd give her the summer off since she'd crap out in anything over 50 degF. Then one year in the fall she just couldn't keep up and now lasts only 2 miles. She's fine to walk, but not run. Getting old sucks, so I run or walk her a mile or so then go out on my own. I'd get another dog running partner but I think it'd kill her to be left home while I went out with another dog.

All of this is true for humans too......

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Brian
“Eat and Drink, spin the legs and you’re going to effin push (today).” A Howe

You're running too slowly

What worked very well for me...

Wait until dog is at least a year old. Build the distance gradually.

Make sure the dog knows it's your run, not the dog's...no distractions, other animals or people, etc...we are running and we have no interest in what any other being is doing. Only exception is stopping to urinate or defecate.

Use a Gentle Leader harness with a short leash on one hand on dogside. No choke collars.

Be consistent; i.e.always have dog on left (or right).

Works better if dog is slightly ahead of you as you run...if dog gets behind you it can unintentionally touch your closest leg, pushing that leg into the other leg and tripping you.

Watch for dog's paw pad wear on snow and ice surfaces.

My dogs always got excited when s/he thought I looked like I was coming down the stairs with running clothes on.

I like to use the Sporn Halters and a 16 ft. retractable leash.
https://www.sporn.com/...on-pull-mesh-harness

Disclaimer: Have not read all the responses. Credentials: 12+ years as a Vet Tech and now a Physical Therapist.

To answer your leash question: I have run holding a leash, with a regular leash around my waist, and now with a 'shock cord' type leash. By far my favorite is the last. Something similar to this (as a side note - Chewy.com is amazing):

https://www.chewy.com/...WZ-KzGRoC9oAQAvD_BwE

I like this for several reasons. Even a well trained dog can find something suddenly interesting and want to try to go for it. This leash absorbs that shock and prevents you from being pulled off your feet. Also running hands free is much better for your form long term - which can prevent injury. Please whatever you do, never use a flexi-lead.

So much of when it is actually safe to run distance, terrain, etc with your dog depends on breed. I have a 50# dog that reached skeletal maturity at about 10 months. Prior to skeletal maturity (likely 10 months - 18 months) you want to be cautious with 'long' runs. Slowly increasing for her is going to be important regardless of age. Also, your decision to spay and at what age (assuming the dog is not already) can also play into this. Dogs that are left unaltered for at least 1 year have significantly fewer orthopedic injuries than dogs that are 'fixed' early in life. Females also have fewer issues with urinary leakage later in life as well as hormonal and autoimmune diseases. This is by FAR a more significant factor than running at a young age. Also ensuring that the pup is getting adequate protein and nutrition is important. High quality feed is a must if you want an athlete dog. We also have used Iceland Pure omega-3 fatty acids to keep our dogs' joints feeling good. Finally, if you are motivated and want to deal with it - allowing her to go through at least one heat cycle can decrease the risk of some cancers, the dog version of ACL injury, and several other common complaints. We elected to have our dog's uterus removed, but not her ovaries. So she style 'cycles' 2x/year, but can't have puppies. This takes patience and is NOT for everyone, but can be a good alternative. (for the male dog owners - vasectomies exist).

Finally, you will find training advice all over. Positive training is super hot and popular. Other tools used correctly (choke, pinch, e-collars) can be really helpful and be used in NON-abusive ways. Our female is a Kelpie. A high drive Australian herding breed. Our herding trainer had an interesting comment. Do you want your dog to work for payment (treats) or to please you? Now Kelpie's and other highly biddable dogs WANT to please us, so the best method for training her for good leash manners I have found (in 4 years) is the herding trainers suggestion. if she starts to pull, just jiggle the leash. You don't have to yank, yell, or be mean...just make it annoying. The dog stops, you stop. In 2 runs we were having a much better time. Harnesses, gentle leaders, etc - all alter the dog's gait. If you are running distance - their form is as important as your form. Learn how your dog needs to learn and take the time to train.

OK - getting off my soap box.

Good luck and enjoy the pup!

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Don't Just Live, Thrive!
Thrive Kinematics Physical Therapy - http://www.facebook.com/...8178667572974?ref=hl

Thanks so much to all for such great and helpful advice! It seems quite a few of you have some good running buddies. As mine is a golden doodle but only 4 months old, it seems I have a while to get her ready. (How am I going to be consistent with MY running now? ;-))


Thanks also for the great shares of devices that work for you all. It seems there are a lot of good options, dependent on the dog's personality. Mine has loved the dog parks, and is really social with both dogs and people, so I'm really pleased with how well she adapts. I'm sure she'll come around to running in due time. I also appreciate the health comments, especially the spay/neuter advice. I was just talking to the vet the other day and the newer research is interesting. Early seems to cause one issue, and later other ones. That said, I have some time it appears.

Thanks again to all.......you dog loving STer's have helped a ton! Cat lovers ???? you have my sympathy. ;-)