My only experience is the Schwalbe Pro One, which is the racier end of their line. They're easy to install and to get the initial seal. They hold pressure great, and I've had no problem sealing without any sealant (for at least the 10 minutes or so in my installation test process before I dump in the sealant). They seal up quickly when punctured. They have good grip. The ride quality is good (latex tube-like).

The knocks on them are that they seem to have marginally less tread life and are marginally more fragile than a GP4KIIS. E.g. there are rumors that they are more prone to catastrophic sidewall cuts than some other tires, but I have not seen this personally. The tread life issue I confirm. The Pro One's do wear down to the casing in maybe 2/3 of the time I'd wear down a GP4KSII

I wanted to go tubeless on my racing bike which is mounted with deep rims wheels (60mm front, 90mm rear).
So far I abandoned the idea since I simply could not find long enough valve extenders that are threaded all the way!
It's no joke! Yes, there are some on the market, like Stan's, but they are only 40mm long and extremely expensive.
If anyone knows of a 60 or 80mm fully threaded valve extension, I'd be very happy to get a notice...
PS: they have to be fully threaded so the valve will be locked in place airtight with a nut.

i found some on amazon that's what i useWilliams Cycling Tubeless Presta Valve Stem - 100mm - Pair

https://www.jrc-components.com/collections/skewers
https://www.boydcycling.com/...ies/tubeless-valves/

MTB&Gravel = no brainer

Road not sold....

I've only tried Schwalbe Pro Ones.. nice tire.. semi light, feels fast and supple. Installed on Enve 2.2 with Silca tubeless tape and valves. Have to use soapy water to ad in getting the bead to seat and one of those fancy dual chamber pumps. Needs about 100psi to get fully seated and you can reduce from there. My front is looking fairly new still, but I have destroyed 2 rears already with large cuts that did not seal well with orange seal. I kinda patched one up and it seems to be holding but I have not rode on it yet, but I'm thinking I will feel it since it has a little bulge in the repaired spot. First tire is FUBAR.

It's an unholy mess when you get a large hole.. sealant everywhere..shoes, bike, legs etc etc. I hate that part since it's happened twice now.

I suppose it all comes down to use case of where you ride. Ive never had a major puncture or blow out, just the tiny little punctures from thrones that end your day or pinch flats.

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-Of course it's 'effing hard, it's IRONMAN!
Team ZOOT
ZOOT, QR, Garmin, HED Wheels, Zealios, FormSwim, Precision Hydration, Rudy Project

Specialized Roval 64s come with long threaded valves. I just converted mine on the weekend. I am sure a specialized dealer could get some in for you.

Im getting the Roubaix's on my training wheels. :)

---

-Of course it's 'effing hard, it's IRONMAN!
Team ZOOT
ZOOT, QR, Garmin, HED Wheels, Zealios, FormSwim, Precision Hydration, Rudy Project

For tires 30mm and larger, I think tubeless is the clear winner. When I use a tire that large, it means rocks or really crappy surface and tubeless allows running low pressure (less rolling resistance) without fear of pinch flats. Sealant also seams to work well at plugging small holes in tires run around 30 to 40 psi. Since I am also wearing a bike jersey with pockets when riding with 35mm tires, I carry a hand-pump and hole repair kit (bacon) in hopes that I do not have to try to insert a tube. If you have a large cut and need to boot it, inserting a tube and remounting the tire is usually quite doable (but messy) with tires this large. However, I have had some tire/rim combinations that are very difficult (good luck getting a WTB Cross Boss on Stan's Crest rim).

But you are asking about triathlon. For tires around 25 mm, and for triathlon without jersey pockets, I am not completely sold. On smooth roads, tubeless tires do not roll appreciably better than good tires and latex tubes. So it comes down to ease of set-up, maintenance, and flat protection. If you are riding somewhere with very rough pavement (great risk of pinch flat) or thorns (high risk of very small puncture) I think tubeless may be worth the hassle (difficult set-up, remembering to add more sealant, setting up again at beginning of next season). Not getting such a flat keeps you in the race. However, if the flat risk comes from glass or debris, I prefer using standard tires and latex tubes. I have found that anything but the smallest hole does not seal with Stans at 80 psi (maybe Orange Seal is better?).

When you do flat with a tubeless road setup, you are going to wish you had a non-tubeless rim and tire. The fit of any tire on tubeless ready rim is usually tighter than on a standard rim. The fit of a tubeless road racing tire on a tubeless ready rim varies from very tight to nearly impossible. (I have found the Specialized tires to be easier to fit than most). So as you pull to the side of the road you know that inserting the tube and remounting the tire is going to be a bear. It takes me at least twice as long to remount a tubeless tire. It also blisters my hands and makes me say bad words. It also seems the chance of not pinching or destroying the tube in this process is about 50/50. If the tire finally sealed at say 15 psi you might be tempted to try refilling it with the CO2 and getting back into the race. However, if the CO2 blows the sealant out of the hole (which is very possible since it is very difficult to control the flow) you have just wasted a CO2. Maybe you carry a hand pump and several tubes during a triathlon. I do not. Maybe you practice meditation and can resist the urge to hurl your bicycle into the woods when you have destroyed your spare tube and used up your CO2 and still have a flat. Maybe I can, but maybe not.

So in short, if there is a high risk of a pinch flat or small puncture, I would run tubeless. If the risk is glass or debris, I would use standard tires and tubes since your chance of successfully replacing a tube in a standard setup is much greater than with a tubeless setup.

Did anyone convert a 404 nsw to tubeless yet? thinking about it, but would not like to roll a tire during high speeds etc...

By the way, i tried tubeless for mtb, cx and road. Mtb was a no brainer.. didnt work well enough on cx (burping in corners), but i have bought my last set of non-tubeless road wheels. Just works great and it has sealed the most ridiculous punctures. No catastrophic failures, yet...

I have the flo 90 in the rear, and I used the Silca 80mm valve stem with the silca 40mm extender.
https://silca.cc/...ers-with-speedshield
https://silca.cc/...?variant=17937895300

Been rolling Bontrager TLR wheels and tires for 2 years now, and they have saved my bacon numerous times- especially on high speed square edged hit we seem to get on some courses.

Thank you for your quick response, tyme.
I have the same wheels, so that will be the way to go!
but you agree that $56.- is pretty steep for a pair of valves...

I have Hunt Wheels (up and coming UK brand that sells direct). They are tubeless compatible and I had Schwalbe 25's on them for the last 5-6 months. They were great and do save you with small flats. The liquid saves you enough to get home if you do flat, but I ended up changing to the normal tube/tyre set up. I'm just not that confident or knowledgable enough to put on tubeless tyres. Even though carrying tubes and changing can be a hassle, it's just easier to deal with.

Taking off the tubeless tyre was a LOT of work as well. I had to literally cut the tyre with scissors to get it off. The liquid makes the tyre slippery and messy so you have to be careful. I'm sure I'm losing some ride quality and maybe watts, but the wheels are on my road bike which is more for training anyways.

On the tri bike, I've switched to Vittoria Latex tubes. I just tried them this weekend at a Half IM (B race so I wasn't that worried). Like others, I am worried about puncturing, but they seemed to be fine. Ride quality is nice and smooth vs Butyl. Not sure on saving Watts, etc..They do lose air a lot, I'm pumping them up a few times/week even though I don't ride the bike outdoors that often!

No such thing as random latex holes.
Same for melted latex tubes.
I have continually challenged anybody to post up a picture of a latex tube melted from braking, never a one, it's just a myth.

they seem to get holes in them when they get hot. I was going down a super steep hill mabe 1/4 or a half mile long with a "T" at the bottom so i was braking alot. After it happens twice you don't wonder why anymore. It doesn't happen to me on normal descents when i go on and off brakes

I experimented with training on tubeless last year. The used bike I purchased had them setup, so I figured I'd try it out. Went great the first couple months with no flats and it was a nice ride at lower pressure. Then went through a string of at least one major flat a week, for a month, that I couldn't get to seal. Putting a tube in does work but it's a major pain on those tires and huge mess. We might have more debris where I ride in the SE valley than where you're at in the NE valley. I really wanted it to work! I gave up on the tubeless experiment and went back to running clinchers. I've been training on the Vittoria Rubino Pro for about 5-6 months now and haven't had a flat yet. However, I do only ride outside on my TT bike 1-2 times a week at most. Glad I tried it out, but personally have had much better experience going back to clincher.
Cameron

Yeah, probably a bit pricey, I figured for a one time purchase that is not too bad, one of the cheaper things in the triathlon/cycling scheme of things. I do like that you tighten the nut down onto the speed shield instead of onto the rim.

I've not made the full leap to tubeless yet but I tried latex tubes for the first time last weekend. What a revelation - a super ride feel. I'm a convert from butyl for sure.

No fitting problems and I only have to give it a couple of pumps with the track pump before a ride but that's 30 seconds of hassle at most.

How do you like your Hunt Wheels? I've been considering a set of the 50's/disc. Seems like a good build for the $$