School me on using a hand held router -updated with a finsihed project

Apr 1, 18 16:56

Post #1 of 24 (3359 views)

I have an old hand held router someone gave me about 10 years ago. A few weeks ago I was going to order my kids a trophy/medal display but instead decided to make them. When I bought the wood I picked up a basic set of bits. Watched a few YouTube videos. Then today I dusted off the router.

I routed 3 sides on the top of the shelf. In the videos it was suggested to do the ends first since they tend to split or get a little beat up. So questions are when routing the wood how do you start? If I am doing an end do I start in the middle of end section then move right and left. Same thing on the front on the shelf. Start in the middle and then work both ways.

The router did bite once or twice and I could feel it pulling. I was going with the grain so not sure what would cause that?

Corners - not sure how to explain this but hug the corners making the turn or make the pass in one direction and then go to the next side and make a full pass?

Suprisingly I got it to look right after a few passes each direction. The only time I have seen anyone use one they just kept going over the board until it looked right. Any tips for next time ?

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Last edited by: Leddy: Jun 15, 18 12:31

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 16:58

Post #2 of 24 (3357 views)

Replying to myself cause I can’t edit text after adding a pic for some reason.

The picture attached was my first go at it. It’s a little off in spots but not as noticible in person.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 17:41

Post #3 of 24 (3337 views)

A router is designed to work in one direction, moving from left to right. There are special occasions where you would go opposite (called a climb cut) but you don't need to worry about that for what you are doing.

The biggest issue you have is blowing our end grain. If you are routing around all 4 sides it is usually not a worry, since if you blow out a bit of grain at the end of the first edge, the starting cut in the second edge will clean it up. However, in the case where you did 3 sides it is advisable to use a piece of scrap clamped.flush to the end of your lady cut to prevent blowout.

Depending on the bit size and hp of the river, learn to take several light passes to get your final profile or depth. Trying to do it in one pass can be very uneven, especially if the grain changes direction on the cut

Good results, buy good bits. I recommend Freud, and if you can get there Quadra cut in the profile, do it.

Some bits should never be used hand held, but if all you are doing is profiling, trimming, or dado and rabbet, hand held is fine.

Any questions?

Jim
"In dog beers, I've only had one"
http://www.shakercolonial.com/
Creating custom made furnishing to your requirements

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [jriosa] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:02

Post #4 of 24 (3319 views)

I'm no expert, but do the cross grain first so if it splits, that material will be removed when you go along the grain. And pretty much always move the timber so you're pushing against the direction of the spinning bit. It can get costly very quickly, but a table that can house a router and/or saw is very useful as it's much easier to work with tools that are fixed to a table. You have much more control over your work and it's much safer.

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:25

Post #5 of 24 (3304 views)

Router the profile first on an over-length piece of stock, then do your corner miters. That way you're not starting or finishing your router cut right on the mitered corners. And as the others said: only go in the direction against the bit rotation; and if you can, find a router table so that you can push the wood around instead of the router. I know you said "hand held" but usually, if you can do the routering on a table it will give better results more quickly.

What you ended up with in the picture looks good so that's what counts, in the end...

PS: Wear ear and eye protection. Routers, like any high speed power tool, are essentially nothing more than electric mistake amplifiers. If you bork a piece of wood that's one thing but when it injures you or a bystander that really sucks.

Less is more.

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [nickag] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:33

Post #6 of 24 (3303 views)

You are right about direction.

If you are profiling 4 sides of a board, you are actually better to start on edge grain rather than end grain. By relieving the profile you reduce end grain blowout. If you start with end grain without a block to prevent tearout, you could damage the piece beyond repair. Depends on the wood to some extent, but say African mahogany would shatter without a block, beyond what you could repair in the next cut.

Tables are great, until you have to profile a 3x8 foot face frame.

Jim
"In dog beers, I've only had one"
http://www.shakercolonial.com/
Creating custom made furnishing to your requirements

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [jriosa] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:38

Post #7 of 24 (3302 views)

I bought a cheap set of bits just to see if it was something I would get into. I knew going into it that would be an issue. The one you mentioned came up a few times when I was looking online today. Because now I’m definitely a little hooked.

For what I did can I run the router back and forth working to get the right depth? I did what you recommended somewhat by accident trying to get the right depth. I tried a scrap piece first and made the mistake of trying to do it in one pass.

How do I start the cut ? That’s the biggest question I think I have. It must be real noob question cause I couldn’t find it explained anywhere.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [nickag] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:43

Post #8 of 24 (3297 views)

Set up was the best. I had it clamped to a saw horse. I have a couple projects to finish before I can build a work table in the garage.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:46

Post #9 of 24 (3295 views)

Do not run back and forth. This is a safety issue. Going left to right, as designed, you are pushing into the grain and against the bit rotation. This gives you control. Right to left will tend to try to throw the router out of your hand. As I said, there are only rare occasions you want to do that.

As to starting the cut, most profiling butts will have a bearing surface the sets the depth. Start the router with it resting on the piece, but in a place it doesn't tuck it. Ease in slowly. If you are heavy you will start on the end grain, just ear back a bit. I tend to make a first light cut, then a second pass to finish.

Jim
"In dog beers, I've only had one"
http://www.shakercolonial.com/
Creating custom made furnishing to your requirements

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [jriosa] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:55

Post #10 of 24 (3288 views)

Thanks!

Right to left, now that you say that I realize that’s when it pulled away from me. Feeling like when a saw bites I guess.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Big Endian] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 18:59

Post #11 of 24 (3283 views)

Quote:

PS: Wear ear and eye protection

I did. I’ve gotten much better with that stuff the older I get

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 19:06

Post #12 of 24 (3273 views)

And one more piece of safety advice, always unplug the power when you're changing bits/blades etc. It only takes a bump on the power button to remove a finger (and no, I've never hurt myself and don't intend to).

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [nickag] [ In reply to ]

Apr 1, 18 19:30

Post #13 of 24 (3264 views)

I’m pretty anal about that. I unplug anything I’m using for that reason and more importantly I have little ones around.

My son is 9 and he started helping me with another project I’m working on. We talk A LOT about safety. He’s getting his first tool box. The first thing I gave him for it was a tape measure, hammer and safety glasses.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [jriosa] [ In reply to ]

Jun 15, 18 12:30

Post #14 of 24 (2591 views)

Thanks for the tips. I tried to post a completed picture a few times but timypic has been finicky with me.

I started this cause the wife shot me down on ordering one. So instead of spending a $100 to buy one I spent $200 making one. True cost was under a $100 to make two. Most of that was stencil and cheap router bits. (I know but this was the experimental project). It was fun doing it with my son who got his first tool box and some tools out of it.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 15, 18 12:32

Post #15 of 24 (2584 views)

Nicely done!

If there are no dogs in Heaven, then when I die I want to go where they went. - Will Rogers

Emery's Third Coast Triathlon | Tri Wisconsin Triathlon Team | Push Endurance | GLWR

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 15, 18 13:52

Post #16 of 24 (2540 views)

Leddy wrote:

So instead of spending a $100 to buy one I spent $200 making one.

as it should be.

Dan Empfield
aka Slowman

Re: School me on using a hand held router -updated with a finsihed project [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 15, 18 17:03

Post #17 of 24 (2500 views)

So, if I understand the content of this thread correctly, we're not talking about a new type of wireless internet device, right?

Take a short break from ST and read my blog:
http://tri-banter.blogspot.com/

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 15, 18 17:30

Post #18 of 24 (2492 views)

Well done.
Now just stay away from the Lee Valley catalogs.

Jim
"In dog beers, I've only had one"
http://www.shakercolonial.com/
Creating custom made furnishing to your requirements

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [jriosa] [ In reply to ]

Jun 16, 18 4:23

Post #19 of 24 (2430 views)

jriosa wrote:

Well done.
Now just stay away from the Lee Valley catalogs.

Thanks and now I have that page book marked so I’m in trouble

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 16, 18 5:48

Post #20 of 24 (2414 views)

Nice work, the cost of the tools on a per unit basis lowers as you make more stuff!
I refuse to pay someone to do a job I can do myself, so having some new skills always comes in handy. Hate to turn this into a triathlon thread, but I learnt some new skills in stripping and painting a carbon bike frame in 2011 that cost me less in buying the tools than paying someone else, and still looks great!

Hope you can start looking for some new projects.

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 16, 18 7:16

Post #21 of 24 (2398 views)

well done!

Steve

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Steve Hawley] [ In reply to ]

Jun 16, 18 9:03

Post #22 of 24 (2377 views)

Steve Hawley wrote:

well done!

Thanks. Kids work compared to your rifle project.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [nickag] [ In reply to ]

Jun 16, 18 9:14

Post #23 of 24 (2373 views)

nickag wrote:

Hope you can start looking for some new projects.

I agree. I’d typically rather buy / borrow tools and do it myself. Admittedly I have gotten myself in over my head once or twice.

I ripped out all the 2x4s in the garage that we’re used for hanging stuff. Which was an excuse to use router on new boards to put hooks in. I made a golf bag rack and used a trial shelf for a stick rack.

"I think I've cracked the code. double letters are cheaters except for perfect squares (a, d, i, p and y). So Leddy isn't a cheater... "

Re: School me on using a hand held router - woodworking [Leddy] [ In reply to ]

Jun 16, 18 16:21

Post #24 of 24 (2334 views)

So instead of spending a $100 to buy one I spent $200 making one.

This used to bother me until I realized that if I tried to actually buy what I made it would have cost me $400. I'm by no means a professional woodworker in fact I'd consider myself barely a novice, however if you bought that same thing it probably would have been made out of crap wood, glue and staples. It cost you $200 bucks because you used real wood, real fasteners etc etc.

I'm in the same boat with a few book shelves right now. I could go out and buy a few right now but they'd be made out of press board and staples. If I bought book shelves that we made of the same materials that I would use they'd be the same or even more of what it would cost for me to make them. This gets even more pronounced when you get into higher quality stuff. I could not believe the cost of bed frames. We ended up getting a rather low end one because they were stupid expensive. If I ever get back to wood working more seriously and get my shop organized I could make one for considerably less.

~Matt

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