eTap will be slower due to wireless signal/shift compared to a cabled transmission. Just let off the gas a bit for any shift and you wont run into problems.


Here is a setup from GCN on eTap
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_PSYcHrWGww

---

Carson Christen
Sport Scientist , Coach
Torden Multisport

I just did two upgrades: tri bike from Ultegra mechanical to Ultegra Di2, and road bike from 105/DA mix to eTap. My eTap bike is SRAM Red (eTap) RD, RD, Crankset, and chain with a Force cassette.

Both shift crazy fast, and much faster than mechanical. I think Di2 may be slightly faster than eTap, but the difference is not that significant. I love them both and think they are perfectly matched to my respective applications.

I have only had a couple rides with my eTap, but it has been perfect. eTap's FD adjustment instructions are much better than Di2. I would re-do their instructions. If you have dumped your chain, that has to be a limit screw problem. The lines on the FD for alignment to the chaining are super clear, so give that and then the limit screw a double-check. I have shifted both under load while climbing some ugly hills. RD goes both directions very well. FD I have only gone big to small under load, but it was quick and smooth.

I would say that overshifting is quite common with E-tap. There is a thin line between not having chain rub when on the smallest sprocket and not having chain going off of the ring.
How sensitive it can be, probably depends on the crank-chainrings setup.
As much as I like E-tap, front derailleur is the weakest point of this system, imo. Having said this, maybe my rings are very demanding for E-tap (Rotor QXL and Osymetric...).
@ OP, try to play with limit screw making very small adjustments at the time.

The FD eTap adjustment seems crazy-simple and basically identical to a mechnical FD. If even in the ballpark, it seems almost impossible to throw a chain over the big cog into the crank arms (if that is what I was understanding the OP to be saying). The outer plate of the FD cage should only be 0.5mm away from the chain when on the big chainring and smallest cog. If that adjustment is correct, overshifting would be virtually impossible. I could see how this might be affected by the angle of the cage, but again, eTap has guide lines etched into the top of the cage to make the angle very easy to sight against the chainring.

SRAM's installation and adjustment guide is explicit. I would not advocate playing with the limit screws in small adjustments. It is simply 0.5mm in the big-small chainring & cog combo and 0.5mm - 1.0mm in the small-big combo
Back to the OP on RD shift speed... the microshift adjustment is definitely a factor here. I did all of my initial adjustments on the stand, but it was a little off during my first ride. I could sense it in the speed it took the chain to catch in the shifts, and I could hear a little chain noise. I did two microadjustment clicks during that initial ride, and it perfected it. One of the eTap beauties is the ease of doing RD microadjustments on the fly. (You can do it with Di2 also, but it is more difficult.)