I would check the brake track width on the various generations of the 202s and buy a used set. then you would have a really light set of wheels for hillclimbs on the road bike. If you want slow just put a set of Gatorskins on them. Those things will ruin any wheel.

What’s your budget?

Ha, awesome. I will look for some 202s. I would like to spend under $1000, ideally under $700.

Used tubulars appear to be the bargain in used wheels these days. You can probably get a pair cheap, which will help to offset the glue factor.

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FLO Carbon Clincher wheels are very good and an order of magnitude cheaper than anything else comparable. I do not know of anything cheaper that I would recommend. (And, I highly recommend them over most other wheels at much higher costs.) So, if they are more than you want to spend for a new set, then a used set of FLO 45 wheels is your likely cheapest and best option. You would be very fortunate to find a used set of much else cheaper than a new set of FLO wheels. For example, given the option of a used set of Zipp 202 wheels at the same price as a new set of FLO 45 wheels, I would go with the FLO every time.

Primes from wiggle or Chain Reaction, or something semi-reputable from China (Yoeleo / Farsports)

I've got a set of 80mm carbon wheels (Martindale brand) with tires (Cont. GP 4000s II) and tubes, plus an disc cover, for sale - White Industries hubs. Only used the set a handful of times. I would take $900 with all that. I'm also planning to sell a set of 50mm Martindale carbon wheels w/ White Industries hubs. They have more use on them. Will be asking $700 for them.

Yeah get some 2nd hand tubs, even if you're racing on clinchers. And use tape not glue.

Wouldn't a proper glue job be faster?

That's an urban myth. If glue is faster, the difference is virtually negligible.

Ah I can't wait to see the stats I fancy a good laugh.

You're likely to be as surprised as I was.

Just train on the 808's.
Cost you nothing.

What an understatement! I ended up new race wheels with a metal brake track instead. Never looked back. I think riding your 808's with whatever 'training' tires you want probably makes the most sense here if you are happy with those wheels.

Edit: If your 808's are Firecrests, there's a pair of lightly used Reynolds in the classifieds with the exact same width brake track. That would make for some hassle free swapping. http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...ost=6589197#p6589197

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/...pe_or_glue_P4138245/

jimatbeyond wrote:

http://forum.slowtwitch.com/forum/Slowtwitch_Forums_C1/Triathlon_Forum_F1/Tubular_tire_mounting..._Tufo_tape_or_glue_P4138245/

An extra 10% rolling resistance with glue over tape...

Reynolds Assaults.
46 mm deep and 22 or 23 wide. You can find them at a lot of places like Performance on sale all of the time for about $1000. I bought my clinchers for 899 last year. I have been riding / training (100% on my road bike) on these since 2010. First the tubulars, then last year I replaced them with clinchers. Nice wheels, durable, 1000s of miles on the tubulars with zero issues. I live in so cal so I do not ride in wet conditions often, but breaking is good damp and dry conditions.

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2017 Cervelo P2
2017 Cervelo S2
itraininla.com
#itraininla

The logic of this escapes me.

You have expensive Zipp wheels for racing but you don't want to train on them.
You want wheels to train on.
The Zipps require specific pads to mitigate the lack an alloy brake track.
This prevents you from using alloy wheels for training since you don't want to change the pads.
So you are now looking for another set of expensive wheels with the same deficiency so that the same brake pads will be usable for both training and racing.

My analysis of this problem would go as follows: (Please tell me if I'm assuming any of the answers incorrectly)

What do I need? - fast racing wheels and wheels to train on
What's wrong with what i have? - I don't want to race on expensive wheels so I need separate wheels for training
Why? - I might damage the expensive wheels in training and don't want to risk the cost
What are ideal training wheel traits? - good braking, adequately robust, more financially sensible than risking my Zipps.

So what solutions meet this description?

1. Train on the Zipps reasoning that the possibility of damaging one or both of them is low enough to be a wiser choice than buying a second set of expensive wheels, even if they are less expensive.
2. Switch to similarly performing wheels with alloy brake tracks such as those by HED, Flo or Swiss Side and have your choice of alloy training wheels.
3. Switch to similarly performing wheels with alloy brake tracks such as those by HED, Flo or Swiss Side and use them for training too since they're not much more expensive than you're willing to spend on training wheels anyway.

What doesn't make sense?

1. Keeping the existing wheels for training and buying something no more durable or reliable, and far more expensive than makes sense for "training only" wheels purely to mitigate the issue with the brake pads caused by Zipps that don't even appear to outperform the much more convenient and cheaper competition. If it's about appearance and money doesn't matter - use the Zipps the whole time. If it's about the best tool for the job - use something with alloy tracks in training and probably in racing too. If it's about financial sense - use something with alloy tracks in training and probably in racing too.

I don't understand what you are saying.

2017/2018 Reynolds Assault rims are 41mm deep and 25mm wide.

The difference in performance between glue and decent tape is negligible. i.e no difference. There's data knocking about that shows glue is x% faster, but that's using tuff tape, which is wider and heavier and shitter compared to 3M tape.

How do you figure that there is no difference in rolling resistance when comparing a proper glue job to adhesive tape?