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Is the original length of cable/housing that is already on the bike sufficient, or did you need a new length of cable/housing to route it this way?
I had to buy new cable housing. I will say some of this seems to be brake lever dependent as well. I had a profile design carbon set (don't remember the exact name, but not the stock ones on the bike) and they were kind of mushy so I switch to DA levers and it was significantly better. Additionally, I also live in Florida and rarely go screaming downhill so stopping power needed is relative. I raced IM 70.3 Augusta without any issues on downhills.
Chain Tri Team
I have the same bike and looking back at what I did I would recommend the cockpit next for you and then the omega brakes.
I went with a Zipp Vuka Stealth bar so I could hide all the wires and junction box which cleans it up perfectly. The TriRig bar gets a lot of praise here and I'm sure it's great but twice the costs and Zipp looks better in my opinion. Someone has a Vuka Stealth listed on the classifieds right now I think. It's pretty adjustable so you'll be able to get into whatever position you need. At that point you'll have one of the fastest setups and all that will be left is to just do the work.
If you want any pics just PM your email or phone and I can email/text them to you.
All the best!
I treated myself to TriRig alpha x aerobars and omega x brakes for Black Friday. Iâ€™ve never done too much work on my own bike, but have a mechanical background and a need for a new hobby. I figured I would just re-route the rear brake cable as I do the other work, so I was just wondering if I could use the existing cabling/housing. I have di2, so I know I can use all of that same wiring.
No longer have it, but I did this on my old NP2...
Either get new housing and loop it inside the frame - there is plenty of space behind the head tube for a substantial loop. If you want to reuse the housing you should remove the grommet so you can have more of a straight shot - but then you'll want to do something to protect the housing from rubbing the sides of the hole (and then id suggest modifying a PD/Torhans bento to sit flush behind the stem and cover it all up).
EDIT: If you have di2 you probably have the DA levers? If so, those are a MAJOR upgrade over the PD levers that come on a NP2
Last edited by:
: Dec 7, 18 7:31
Yeah definitely the DA levers, night and day difference. Didn't realize this post was old someone awoke it and I didn't follow that part. Appreciate the reply.