I tried a 10 speed high-end YBN chain on the recommendation of the guys at Molten Speed Wax. Their quick link is rated for 5 uses and I have been using them with the YBN and Campy chains with no issues.

The interesting thing is that when I switched from 10 to 11 speed on my TT bike I lined up the YBN with a new Campy chain. I had used the YBN for a good 18 months and it was exactly the same length as the new Campy chain. No dissernable chain stretch at all. This is an n=1 experiment, but now that I need to order new chains I will try the YBN 11 and see if I see the same results.

The Connex quick links may have some compatibility issues with SRAM. Dan Kennison is using the Cpnnex for the Tactical low friction chains and I think he was having some issues with then clicking on 1x.

Maybe there is issues with running on a 10 tooth cog?

Try measuring a section across the link and a section not across the link.
You may be surprised how much chain wear can vary, especially if it has run without lube for a bit.
I always take at least three measurements on a chain as taking only one can lead to missing a chain that needs replacing.

If you are just measuring pin to pin, then there can be no difference, they are attached together by a plate.
Look for wear marks on the pins. This is where it all happens.

Funny you mention that. I have a clicking on the 1x (minor and I've just gotten over it - it's once per chain revolution assuming when it jumps onto the front chainring) where I've not had that issue on any 2X build. And I use them on all my bikes.

Hasn't caused any issues or dropped chains. These are SRAM builds not Campy.

Thank you, some great advice in here. Things I wouldn't have known/ had at hand:

- Long 10mm allen wrench pref on a torque wrench or ratchet wrench to tighten crank;
- RD needs to be attached from inside the rear hangar (not screwed from outside);
- T25 torx wrench is used for almost everything (brakes, RD are all on torx bolts for some reason)
- 2mm allen wrench is needed to adjust RD limit bolts;
- KMC speed link is much easier than working with the campy pin.

Build is done, thanks for all the help.

Mystery ticking noises in SRAM oneby are usually the chainring.
Very frustrating until you find it the first time and are aware of it.

Late reply but here are few tips:

The RD has a T25 torx on the outside to fix to the hanger but there is also a T30 on the rear. If you have a good torque wrench that does left hand you can avoid using the T25 (at its torque limit of 15Nm) and use the T30 at much lower than a T30's limit. Much better.

With a fourth hand tool there is no reason to install a cable adjuster on the FD cable (or rear - it has its own inbuilt adjuster). I've built dozens of mechanical 11s Campag and none of them have ever needed a cable adjuster anywhere. All using genuine Campag cables.

With respect to the specified RD torque of 15 Nm, I think that is high and use 8Nm. Never a problem.

If the cranks are Ultra-Torque, 45Nm is more than sufficient to join them. The minimum 42Nm is fine, too.

i have three Campy Bikes - 11 speed endurance, 11 speed Kestrel tri and 10 speed Cannondale Six-13 daily use.

Campy chain on the tri bike. Read a lot before using it, got it from Wiggle, cut it the way Campy recommended and used a YBN connector. Campy fitting recommendation resulted in a bit longer chain.

Other bikes use YBN chains. Moultons was on all with a second chain hanging ready for each bike. Original YBN chain from Amazon and Remainder from Moulton during the Christmas BOGO sale. No wear on it after 2k miles (Park tool).

The old 10 speed stuff was rebuildable and I’ve rebuilt the shifters and RD a few times. My shop swears they can rebuild 11 speed, but never pressed for details.

I like Campy mainly for the shifter-hand fit and the feel.

I recently bought a Pinarello Tri frame set and built it up with DA...then figured it really wasn't an Italian bike without Campy components, so I did it over with a Record 10 speed group.

However, I'm kind of stumped as to how to set up the shifters. I know what Shimano is supposed to feel like, but not 100% confident that I have the Campagnolo bar end shifters set up right...the right seems to index correctly, but the left (FD) shifter has clicks, then a long, "Friction" pull, then more clicks. What does a properly set up Campagnolo bar end FD shifter actually supposed to shift like?

Posting to subscribe to this thread, and to add my own $.02...Campagnolo is a lot more complicated to set up than Shimano, and there's FAR less information available on the Web to figure it out...and this goes double (triple?) for their bar end stuff. Their own documentation is even awful in this regard.

To be fair, my experience of the instructions was really good - I actually found the 11 speed documents really good (including the bar end shifters).

From small to big ring it’s one large pull and then let it return to centre. There’s a tiny bit more movement and another click available, but it doesn’t need that to shift up, only to stop rub when in the big ring and small sprocket. I think campy built that in as a safeguard against over shifting. It also allows a bit of downward movement without shifting rings if you choose to cross chain the big ring and big sprocket.

Down shift is the same logic in reverse. One click will shift it down and a tiny second click will allow you to use small ring big sprocket with no rubbing. Again, I think they did this to prevent dropping the chain off the small ring due to the momentum of a big shift.

Front mech alignment is absolutely critical and the plastic campy tool makes it very easy.

Just follow all the other set up dimensions and (if you have a 100% matched group) it will shift really well - I have XTR on my MTB to compare to ;-)

I am all chorus 11 speed with a 11 speed campy bullet crank. Only thing I’m out of spec on is chain stay length (I’m to short), but there’s nowt I can do about that lol.

If you drop me a pm I can email you the bar end instructions (and any other 11 speed stuff you may find useful), it will be Monday though as there on my work PC.

WD :-)