also interested in knowing the the hydration setup...

on a side note, has anyone dremeled the opening for cable holes on the base bar? they don't fit etap wires and it would be ideal to hide the cables as much as possible. obviously drilling anything structural would be at ones own risk, but were talking a few mm's here.

That would be very unsafe, and inadvisable. Moreover, the front cable ports DO fit eTap wires, so for the extensions, simply run your wires external to the extension (under bar tape), then exit the bar tape and enter the front cable ports on Alpha X.

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TriRig.com

This is good advice from Tririg. I was frustrated when I couldn’t fit my etap wires through the back port on the base bar, as I was looking for a clean “wire & cable free” cockpit. After staring at it for a while, I routed the cables through the front ports in the base bar and they fit fine. Fortunately for me, I was able to run the wires from the clicks internal through the extensions, and out a hole in the bottom that lined up right near the clamp and down into the base bar. I think that set up actually came out cleaner than the back ports. I’m very happy with my Alpha X bar, extensions and Omega brakes. Thought I got a good deal on the package, until Tririg just lowered the price a few hundred bucks. An even better deal now!

i guess the problem is that i'm using eTap clics which are only routed internally through the extensions and i have no bar tape on the zipp vuka 110's.

Does anyone with the Tririg Alpha X have any idea/lead on a more easily removable cover for the opening into the stem where you can store the di2 junction A?

I love how clean my front end is, but if you need to push the button on the junction A (to pair with etube app, reset the crash mode, change shifting mode, or enter/exit adjustment mode, or reach the charging port), you have to remove the two 2mm and one 3mm screws on the cover (and then the screws launch out onto the ground when you go to remove the cover) .

For on-the-bike adjustments during a race (not likely but potentially still something that might come up), I think it might be nice to have a plastic cover which clips in with tabs instead of screws.

Has anyone tried to 3d model/print something like this?

Your best bet is to change to the EW-RS910 Junction A in the back of the aerobar extension and run a junction B in the stem. Much easier than messing with 3d printing, etc..

Oh- great idea!

It may be worth the effort to completely re-design the wiring and do that- I managed to "soft-brick" my Di2 shifting this weekend after connecting the eTube mobile app via an EW101 in the seat tube. When I disconnected the eTube app, it left the wireless adapter in a weird mode where no communication would get through it- plugging in on the Windows eTube app, it was only finding my shifters, no battery, no FD/RD or wireless module because the wireless module was in-line between the battery/FD/RD in the chain of devices. I had to unplug the battery (after removing the seatpost) to get into a situation where the eTube app could find everything and then update the firmware on the wireless module (which hopefully fixed whatever issue was causing it to become unresponsive after connecting the mobile app, but hard to know as I didn't see any detailed release notes).

To avoid this possibility in the future, I should switch to the bar-end junction n the back of the aero extension, and make sure that the wireless module is not inline between the shifter/FD/RD/battery so that hopefully they would still function even if the wireless module crashed again.