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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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h2ofun wrote:
jdais wrote:
My friend has Di2, so his front shifting is smooth on the 52/34. I have Sram Force mech, so it might not be as smooth. Might be worth a try in the offseason


Di2 might be great until the battery dies. The poor guy that had this happen to him at IMLT was not a happy camper.

.

Sounds like it's his own fault for not charging it the day before an Ironman...sucks, but c'mon, that's a no brainer.
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [h2ofun] [ In reply to ]
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My battery died on my G3 powertap during Rev3 Quassy and I was pissed. No cadence or power. Couldn't imagine losing the front derailleur. Hope it wasn't a hilly course.
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [Power13] [ In reply to ]
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Power13 wrote:

That has been my experience. Here in dead-flat Chicago, a compact is a complete waste. you NEVER touch the small ring.

That said, I am currently running a compact on my tri bike, but that is for Madison. And the reality is that even with a 39, I rarely touch the small ring anyways. So my roadie has 53/39 and my tri bike has 50/34.


As a not good rider in Chicago, I do use my front ring. Example use cases:
Swam 2 miles at ohio street beach, 25mph headwind and 10 mile ride home.

Maybe someday I can plow through that, but not yet!

I am a high cadence guy, I think that changes optimal crank a little.
Last edited by: TunaBoo: Aug 7, 14 12:10
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [jroden] [ In reply to ]
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jroden wrote:
the 34 is kind of a dreadful gear for anyone with normal fitness who is not climbing massive hills. You lose the whole easier range for when you want to tool along at 18mph.

Someone with your strength would be fine on a 39x53 too


I can tell you that a 53/39 at Whistler would have been a death sentence for me. I ran a 52/36 and it was perfect for the majority of the course but I wasn't able to spin up a couple of the steepest hills. The extra gearing in the downhill was nice but I wouldn't go much bigger then I am now unless I was riding a very flat course. I'm slightly bigger at 187-195lbs so the easier gearing does make an impact. I may pick up a 54/42 front for flat TT's but I want to see how difficult it is to change and adjust the FD on my bike since I have 9070 Di2.
Last edited by: PeteDin206: Aug 7, 14 12:20
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [onceatriathlet3] [ In reply to ]
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From what I remember, it was charged before the race. I do not remember if the cold was the issue or just a defect, but, whatever the cause, he was screwed.

.

Dave Campbell | Facebook | @DaveECampbell | h2ofun@h2ofun.net

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Lions don't lose sleep worrying about the sheep
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [PeteDin206] [ In reply to ]
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PeteDin206 wrote:
jroden wrote:
the 34 is kind of a dreadful gear for anyone with normal fitness who is not climbing massive hills. You lose the whole easier range for when you want to tool along at 18mph.

Someone with your strength would be fine on a 39x53 too


I can tell you that a 53/39 at Whistler would have been a death sentence for me. I ran a 52/36 and it was perfect for the majority of the course but I wasn't able to spin up a couple of the steepest hills. The extra gearing in the downhill was nice but I wouldn't go much bigger then I am now unless I was riding a very flat course. I'm slightly bigger at 187-195lbs so the easier gearing does make an impact. I may pick up a 54/42 front for flat TT's but I want to see how difficult it is to change and adjust the FD on my bike since I have 9070 Di2.

Congrats on Whistler.
And yeah, I agree, in my experience a 53\39 is generally too tall for most conditions.
I run 50\36 and it's the most useful set up for all-round riding.

res, non verba
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [RoYe] [ In reply to ]
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Had 53/39 on my tri bike, decided to try 52/36 when I got a power meter since I didn't love the 50/34 on my road bike but wanted something slightly smaller than the 39 in the front. I really like it and will be going 52/36 on the road bike since it needs new rings anyway plus they will then be setup the same and I Can swap the pm between them. I now have quite a few cassettes to chose from as well so I can dial it in.
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [nightfend] [ In reply to ]
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come on NF - you come across as that 10% of guys that look at your bike before they acknowledge you as a rider. Get over yourself....
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [vvvyyyttt] [ In reply to ]
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vvvyyyttt wrote:
come on NF - you come across as that 10% of guys that look at your bike before they acknowledge you as a rider. Get over yourself....

Creo q es el día de los muertes pq este es vivo de nuevo después de 5 años en la fosa.

Living half a decade in the past yo.
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [burnthesheep] [ In reply to ]
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What? Cyber lives forever buddy. I was looking for some help gear ratios and I come across this. I suspect you are the same 10% guy ;-)
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [vvvyyyttt] [ In reply to ]
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vvvyyyttt wrote:
What? Cyber lives forever buddy. I was looking for some help gear ratios and I come across this. I suspect you are the same 10% guy ;-)

You say something silly, and get called out on it. So you double down and say something stupid. You will fit in well here.
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [vvvyyyttt] [ In reply to ]
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vvvyyyttt wrote:
come on NF - you come across as that 10% of guys that look at your bike before they acknowledge you as a rider. Get over yourself....

Fortunately for you, Nightfiend is still active on ST so he can now feel suitably admonished for his 5 year old comment.
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [PeteDin206] [ In reply to ]
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PeteDin206 wrote:
nightfend wrote:
To be honest, if you need a 50/34 then you are not a very competitive rider.


So a 2:34 Lake Stevens 70.3 Bike Split (Top 10% of the day and I backed off the last 10 miles to try and have a better run) on a course with 3600' of elevation is not competitive? Meredith Kessler went 2:28 (24th overall bike split) and only 3 male pros (Crowie, Luke Bell and Elliot Holtham) were sub 2:20. I'm not claiming to be crazy fast, but considering I was racing at 195-197 on a less then ideal bike setup (Kestrel Talon that is WAY to short for me), I'd say the bike is not a problem area. I rode a 50/34 with a 12-27 for that race.

Don't worry about people like "night fend" who comment like that... just someone trying to feel good about themselves, and feel "better or more competitive" than others :).

Colorado Triathlon Company, CO2UT 2021, Crooked Gravel 2022, Steamboat Gravel 2022
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [PeteDin206] [ In reply to ]
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I did IM Whistler last year. I'm ~3 watt/kg with a compact and 11-29 cassette. Switching to the compact was kind of a last minute decision a couple weeks before the race, when I panicked after a horrible brick run after my long 100 mile training ride. At the end of the day, I appreciated having the 34 front ring. A 50x11 is plenty of gear. If you're spinning that out, you may as well be coasting. To go any faster is a huge waste of energy to overcome the air resistance. The only time you need a bigger gear is if your riding in a group and trying to catch a downhill breakaway, or if you have a 1000+ watt sprint.

That said, what I didn't appreciate was I found myself riding cross-chained a LOT more on the 34/50 than 36/52. It was pretty annoying actually. If I were to do Whistler again, I'd have kept the 36/52 up front, and swapped for a medium cage RD with an 11-32 cassette (or 11-30 if you're a very strong climber and proven runner off the bike). It gives you almost as much range and a straighter more efficient chain line. Yes there are some bigger jumps, but they're all at the top of the cassette, where I find I actually like of like bigger jumps.

For weaker riders in the sub 2.8 watt/kg range or riders who have done very little low cadence training, maybe the 34/50 makes sense. I didn't like it. I moved it to my "climbing" bike, which rarely gets ridden, and even for that bike I'm thinking about selling the compact rings going with a medium cage RD and 11-32 instead.
Last edited by: wintershade: Mar 11, 19 17:12
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Re: 52/36 vs 50/34 [wintershade] [ In reply to ]
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wintershade wrote:
I did IM Whistler last year. I'm ~3 watt/kg with a compact and 11-29 cassette. Switching to the compact was kind of a last minute decision a couple weeks before the race, when I panicked after a horrible brick run after my long 100 mile training ride. At the end of the day, I appreciated having the 34 front ring. A 50x11 is plenty of gear. If you're spinning that out, you may as well be coasting. To go any faster is a huge waste of energy to overcome the air resistance. The only time you need a bigger gear is if your riding in a group and trying to catch a downhill breakaway, or if you have a 1000+ watt sprint.

That said, what I didn't appreciate was I found myself riding cross-chained a LOT more on the 34/50 than 36/52. It was pretty annoying actually. If I were to do Whistler again, I'd have kept the 36/52 up front, and swapped for a medium cage RD with an 11-32 cassette (or 11-30 if you're a very strong climber and proven runner off the bike). It gives you almost as much range and a straighter more efficient chain line. Yes there are some bigger jumps, but they're all at the top of the cassette, where I find I actually like of like bigger jumps.

For weaker riders in the sub 2.8 watt/kg range or riders who have done very little low cadence training, maybe the 34/50 makes sense. I didn't like it. I moved it to my "climbing" bike, which rarely gets ridden, and even for that bike I'm thinking about selling the compact rings going with a medium cage RD and 11-32 instead.

You can look at this the other way too - I'm a strong cyclist (roadie only) that uses a 50-34 and I like it because it allows me to be in my big ring almost the entire time and closer to the middle of my cassette for the majority of the terrain I encounter.

_______________________________________________
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