+1 for the instructions posted, though i usually do the stretching on a cheap clincher rim. bit more of PITA to get it on there, but works just as well. Also +1 on the acid brush. To prevent the bristles from clumping due to the glue, you can have a jar of Goof-off handy and rinse and clean using that after each application. I know that a tubular is well glued when my hands get somewhat mangled from wrestling the tubular off of the rim.

I tend to agree regarding glue job from the shop. I once paid $50 just to see what type of service i'll get, and it was an okay job as I needed to touch up the sides a bit afterwards. Personally won't be going to the shop for things here on out.

Also i guess it doesn't necessarily need to be 3 days (i.e. 72 hours) as that's enough to get 7 coats of glue. I usually wait 12 hours between each application.

It really isn't.....

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Daimo is the man. I believe you are right regarding road vs. CX tubular gluing. A super strong glue job is essential for CX. In my opinion, I'd rather something be glued overly strong than under.

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how is a super strong glue job not essential for the road?

I have flatted put a brand new tire unglued on pumped it up finished ride and played hell the next day gettin it off.

For road the tire is pumped up to 100lbs plus thus holding it on the rim some. CX tires might have only 20lbs and add hard cornering and rough ground the knobs will grab and really yank on the tire itself. The glue is really the only thing holding it on for CX.

From what I have read the reason for the three levels of glue was to fill in space and create a bigger glue base. It has become kinda of a moot point with the wider based rims now. Not sure if that is true but that came from pro CX wrench hands, so it must be true huh:)

I normally glue in one day. The major difference is between alloy rims vrs carbon. Carbon I put one layer of glue on rim and one on the tire. A lot of this glue will be absorbed by the rim and tire. After that I think it is more of personal preference if you put one or two more coats on and how long you let it dry. Carbon rims I put two more on and the rim but only one more on the tire. For CX I always put three on including some belguim tape.

That is very true especially if you preped the tire base. But I still wouldn't go do a crit or hard fast cornering with it.

I wouldn't either but on a tt bike you prob aren't taking hairpins dragging your pedals around turns

It always matters, but in general the pressure of the tire tends to hold it on the rim pretty well without glue. The strength of the glue matters when you are turning hard and hit a bump or whack your pedal in a crit.

I train on tubulars and do a pretty half assed glue job about 100% of the time, I just gack some glue on the rim on top of the 10 jillion layers already on there, peel a fresh tire off a storage rim, dab some glue on the base tape, and stick it on. Straighten, add some sealant and inflate, then hang the bike up and go in for a shower, I just do it when I come home from a ride in 5 minutes. They don't come off, I race on my training wheels sometimes and they are fine, it's just no big whoop.

Very true

+1

Love it. Me too. I put a coat on the rim and make sure it covers the entire surface. Mount tire and wipe off the excess and ride two hours later. Just don’t take too many blind curves and it will mount and seal just fine.

Yeah, but your method does not yield the best RR. It's fine if you are doing CX or don't care about your time. I would suggest reading this article on "Tubular Tires: Adhesives and Practice": http://kuktl.dept.ku.edu/bicycle/Cusa1.pdf

some good info already. After years of gluing, some slight "ease of life" changes to the mounting/gluing instructions that most people leave out.

- use the tubes of glue instead of the big mastik can (or put the glue from the can into a condiment bottle to squirt it out) run a tube of glue around the center of the rim, put on a latex glove, and then go around it with your thumb pushing down and spinning the rim (in a truing stand) this should give you a nice even coat on the rim up to the edges quickly without using a brush.

- when you're done with the steps and about to mount, take a spray bottle of water and lightly mist the base tape of the tire. This will give you just a little more time to keep it from bonding in place immediately.

- get the tire on mostly straight at low psi (should have shape) - using the base tape as a guide is usually ok, but they aren't perfectly straight generally, use your eye spinning the rim. Then inflate to near riding psi, grab the wheel by the skewer and start rolling (while pressing down with your body weight) the wheel at a sharp angle (like you're taking a sharp u-turn) do this a few times, then flip sides and do it with the other side taking the turn. Now when you spin the wheel in the stand it should be on almost perfectly straight. Inflate and let set.

I do the 1 day process on road and tt tires. Never had an issue.
For track I still do the 3 day method. I know guys that do less with no issue, but it gives me peace of mind diving off the bank to know those suckers are basically bonded to the rim.

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Ditto.

Might be different if gluing tires for use with very low pressure, such as cyclo cross, but for road, I did like the above.

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