I'm an aspiring triathlete, but don't yet own a bike. I'd like to buy a used bike under the assumption that I can get a better bike for the money I'd like to spend. I've read about the importance of being professionally fit, but obviously that's not a luxury I'd have if buying a bike from an individual. Can anyone give me some advice for the proper size of bike for me? I realize every bike, and every person, is different but some guidelines would be really helpful. I'm about 6' 2" and 185 lbs. Thanks.
Triathlon Forum
Login required to started new threads
Login required to post replies
Re: Used Bike Advice [goditshothere]
[ In reply to ]
Here is a web site that will help you,
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/
"You're guaranteed to miss 100% of the shots you never take" - Wayne Gretzky
http://www.coloradocyclist.com/bikefit/
"You're guaranteed to miss 100% of the shots you never take" - Wayne Gretzky
Re: Used Bike Advice [goditshothere]
[ In reply to ]
My wife and I just bought her first bike together. I also thought that buying a used bike was the way to go (more value for the dollar) but in the end we decided to get her a new bike.
As someone already said, fit is important. Go to a bike shop and have them help you figure out what size bike fits you best. Several sites will have formulas for determining this, but nothing beats getting on a bike and feeling whether you're too stretched out or too crunched up on the frame. For example, the formulas all said my wife would be a 52-54 cm frame, but after trying several out we got her a 50cm, and she's very comfortable. Also, the right fit with aerobars is a little different than the fit for riding on the hoods. Don't know how much money you have to spend, but if you're not getting a dedicated Tri bike, be prepared for a little compromise between the ideal road position and the ideal aero position. By the way, if you go to a good bike shop to try on bikes, the odds that you'll buy a new bike from that shop go up pretty dramatically.
Lastly, don't skimp by getting low end (aka Sora) components. We originally started off looking at the low end Specialized Allez, but ended up getting the next model up, the Allez Sport. The reason was that the Sport had Tiagra components, and the vanilla Allez had Sora. Now I don't know how big the difference *really* is between Sora and Tiagra, but Tiagra is upwards compatible with 105 and Ultegra and Dura Ace, where Sora is much less so. (Although I'm sure a decent bike mechanic could make them work together). When Sora components wear out or break, you almost have to replace them with Sora. When Tiagra components wear out or break, you'll find that it's relatively cheap to buy Ultegra. Also, you're less likely to find yourself stranded by the side of the road with a failed component. Since my wife and I will be riding together with no one to call to come pick us up if we have a serious mechanical, we opted for the more reliable components.
Most entry-level bikes in this class (Trek 1000, Specialized Allez, Giant OCR3) run in the $700-$800 range new. For that kind of money on a used bike you probably get a slightly better frame and probably Ultegra components and maybe better wheels. But you compomise on wear and on buying older components, some of which may be tricky to replace. Most of the used bikes of decent quality that we looked at were $450-$600 on ebay, and by the time we paid shipping we figured it was going to cost us $650. For $800, we got a brand new bike that she will be very happy with.
Hope that helps some,
Lee
Lee
As someone already said, fit is important. Go to a bike shop and have them help you figure out what size bike fits you best. Several sites will have formulas for determining this, but nothing beats getting on a bike and feeling whether you're too stretched out or too crunched up on the frame. For example, the formulas all said my wife would be a 52-54 cm frame, but after trying several out we got her a 50cm, and she's very comfortable. Also, the right fit with aerobars is a little different than the fit for riding on the hoods. Don't know how much money you have to spend, but if you're not getting a dedicated Tri bike, be prepared for a little compromise between the ideal road position and the ideal aero position. By the way, if you go to a good bike shop to try on bikes, the odds that you'll buy a new bike from that shop go up pretty dramatically.
Lastly, don't skimp by getting low end (aka Sora) components. We originally started off looking at the low end Specialized Allez, but ended up getting the next model up, the Allez Sport. The reason was that the Sport had Tiagra components, and the vanilla Allez had Sora. Now I don't know how big the difference *really* is between Sora and Tiagra, but Tiagra is upwards compatible with 105 and Ultegra and Dura Ace, where Sora is much less so. (Although I'm sure a decent bike mechanic could make them work together). When Sora components wear out or break, you almost have to replace them with Sora. When Tiagra components wear out or break, you'll find that it's relatively cheap to buy Ultegra. Also, you're less likely to find yourself stranded by the side of the road with a failed component. Since my wife and I will be riding together with no one to call to come pick us up if we have a serious mechanical, we opted for the more reliable components.
Most entry-level bikes in this class (Trek 1000, Specialized Allez, Giant OCR3) run in the $700-$800 range new. For that kind of money on a used bike you probably get a slightly better frame and probably Ultegra components and maybe better wheels. But you compomise on wear and on buying older components, some of which may be tricky to replace. Most of the used bikes of decent quality that we looked at were $450-$600 on ebay, and by the time we paid shipping we figured it was going to cost us $650. For $800, we got a brand new bike that she will be very happy with.
Hope that helps some,
Lee
Lee
Re: Used Bike Advice [goditshothere]
[ In reply to ]
"I'm an aspiring triathlete, but don't yet own a bike"
As a new biker follow these three basic rules
1) ALWAYS buy a road bike first. Tri bikes are squirely handling and less versatile and too many beginner tri-geeks purchase them before they are ready. Tri-geeks have a reputation as mediocre bike handlers, but it's one that they've earned. For beginning tris fit a road bike with shorty aero bars designed for a road geometry such as Profile Jammer GT's.
2) Join a roadie bike club and go on group rides regularly. Yes, you'll get dropped, feel silly at first because you can't hold a pace line and won't gain full respect until you can run with the front group, but you'll learn far more about biking skills riding with experienced roadies than you ever will flying solo training for tris.
3) Buying a second hand road bike isn't that difficult if you first take the time and do some research. Start with your theoretical frame size. Measure your inseam in cm's and multiply by .67. There are lots of web sites that explain the basics of bike fitting. Read them carefully. Here is an example to start with. It will give you the basics. http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm
As a new biker follow these three basic rules
1) ALWAYS buy a road bike first. Tri bikes are squirely handling and less versatile and too many beginner tri-geeks purchase them before they are ready. Tri-geeks have a reputation as mediocre bike handlers, but it's one that they've earned. For beginning tris fit a road bike with shorty aero bars designed for a road geometry such as Profile Jammer GT's.
2) Join a roadie bike club and go on group rides regularly. Yes, you'll get dropped, feel silly at first because you can't hold a pace line and won't gain full respect until you can run with the front group, but you'll learn far more about biking skills riding with experienced roadies than you ever will flying solo training for tris.
3) Buying a second hand road bike isn't that difficult if you first take the time and do some research. Start with your theoretical frame size. Measure your inseam in cm's and multiply by .67. There are lots of web sites that explain the basics of bike fitting. Read them carefully. Here is an example to start with. It will give you the basics. http://www.coloradocyclist.com/BikeFit/index.cfm
Top tube length is key. There are bikes that are a theoretical size 54 cm (using me as an example) and the top tube is 56, which would stretch me out. A proper size 52 is too long for me in the tri position, unless I am dealing with a company that uses "square" measurements (i.e. same size seat and top tubes). Sizes start on the seat tube for some reason I am unsure of, as it is a less important measurement.
Maybe getting measured wouldn't be a bad idea. If you make the commitment to the shop that you will use their repair facilities, buy their parts, and eventually get a new bike from them, you will get a fair deal. Mailorder facilities are for the mechanically experienced with their own tools. A few parts are easy enough to replace yourself, but when it comes down to it, you need a helping hand. They will be willing to help if you purchase from them.
I will chime in and say that a road bike with shortie aerobars would be best for you. There are many capable road bikes that can be had for little money used. But remember one thing: you will probably replace quite a few parts the lower you paid for the bike.
Maybe getting measured wouldn't be a bad idea. If you make the commitment to the shop that you will use their repair facilities, buy their parts, and eventually get a new bike from them, you will get a fair deal. Mailorder facilities are for the mechanically experienced with their own tools. A few parts are easy enough to replace yourself, but when it comes down to it, you need a helping hand. They will be willing to help if you purchase from them.
I will chime in and say that a road bike with shortie aerobars would be best for you. There are many capable road bikes that can be had for little money used. But remember one thing: you will probably replace quite a few parts the lower you paid for the bike.