the whole tubular vs. clincher thing is now just a matter of taste. a well made clincher rides great so does a well made tubular.

i'm sticking with clinchers because they are cheaper to maintain and no glue.

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customerjon @gmail.com is where information happens.

In some ways, it depends on the length of course you're riding. For an Oly, I would go with tubulars because they are faster to change and you have less distance to make up any time loss. For an IM, it makes sense to carry a bunch of patches versus a bunch of tires. Being from an MTB background, I've sorta stuck with clichers because that's what I know. I also have no problems drinking beer from a can.

Brett

Durable clinchers+heavy. A tubular is still lighter. Many ultralight clinchers are "race day only" rubber, as I have had bad experiences with race day clinchers. I try to stray from tubs, but I always come back. Tubs rule!!!!!

Remember- winners ride tubulars.

Even if you could get a tire + tube to weigh the same amount as a tubular tire, the wheel is going to be heavier by virtue of needing a aluminum rim...

depends I would suppose... depending on how well the tire interfaces with the rim and the width of the wheel itself...
I would imagine that this depends on the constuction of the wheel. making it hard to make a blanket statement

Most aero?

Depends on the actual rim and tyre, but usually the clincher has a better shape; tighter interface with the rim.

Tubies will always corner better than clinchers. They won't come off the wheel as long as some retard didn't glue them on. Because a tubular tire had a round cross section, more of the tire contacts the ground when cornering. A clincher has a more "U" shaped cross section, so there is less tire to contact the ground at tight corners,, i.e. you can't corner as tightly without losing it.

There are reasons to ride tubulars, as well as reasons not to. To me, it comes down to the same thing as 700vs650. I ride 700c for various reasons, but they aren't "better" than 650s, just like 650s aren't "better" than 700s, just different.

tommy

i guess it's tough to imagine getting my bike down to an angle where the difference between the shape of a clincher & tubie are going to make a difference. maybe though.... that's my problem ;)

but..... i HAVE flatted early in a half IM on a tubular, swapped the spare in lightning speed, only to find myself less than anxious to test how fast i can corner on a spare tubular....

do you have any suggestions on the best method of swapping spare tubies on the fly? pre glue the spare? i have typically just pulled the old tubie off, and put a new tire on with no glue, just depending on the leftover on the rim. when i get home i do a proper 'non-retard' glue job.

thanks.

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It's not easy to juggle a pregnant wife and a troubled child, but somehow I managed to squeeze in 8 hours of TV a day - Homer Simpson

for a spare i use an old but serviceable tire, that has already been pre-glued. the glue reside on the tire is enough to bond with the glue on the rim. i have also used non-glued tires, which for a TT is ok i think, as well as pre-glued, pre-stretched new tires, with some wax paper lining the rin strip to prevent the tire from gluing to itself. the best way to go, IMO, is to use an older but not totally blow out tire with some tread life on it. after all, it's only getting you to the finish line anyway.

tommy