ianpeace wrote:
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I really appreciate your staying open minded and working through this with me. You and I want the same thing - for you to have the right bike. I've looked at your fit sheet. I see a seat height of 810, a Pad Y of 711 and a Pad X of 421. I find this to be a bit suspect and here's why... Take a look at this article
https://www.slowtwitch.com/...ld_Example_6852.html and plot your dot (711/421) on the graph. There's only one person who is more of an outlier than you. I have to wonder why and that leads me to some questions...
1) What saddle was under you for the fit and where were you sitting on it. Scroll thru the pics of the
women at kona and the
men at kona and take note of how they are all riding the front half of the saddle. Were you riding like that during the fit?
2) How long were the cranks used during your fit?
3) You said this was a Retul fit... was it done on a Muve dynamic fit bike?
4) How long was your ride in the final position, at what effort was that final position ride, and were you offered a chance to elongate your cockpit during that final position effort?
If you're answer to all this... "WTF does Ian know? He's only seen text, my fitter has seen ME!". I respect that answer, agree with in to some extent, and if you're good to go then here's your bike....
Canyon Speedmax CF size Medium with the 80mm stem that comes stock, pads back almost 100% and with 55mm of Profile-Design aerobar pedestal (those spacers and long bolts will be in the box). Here's what makes me super comfortable and confident prescribing this bike...
1) Your seat height can go up and down a ton and you'll still be perfect on this bike
2) Your pads can move forward 75mm, a direction I expect your fit to go, and that is the bike fit equivalent to the length of Nebraska
3) Your pads can move down 80mm, a direction I expect your fit to go, and that's a drop like the Mariana Trench.
Ian
You're awesome for taking the amount of time to craft these responses. I dont know which saddle for certain, but have asked my fitter. In the meantime:
1) I can say with 99% certainty that I was back on the saddle as one would be on a road bike, and definitely not riding the nose like the kona photos.
2) I can also say with 99% certainty (and my fitter can correct me on this) that we set the crank length to that of the CF, which is 170, because he was fitting me knowing which bike I was in the market for.
3) It was no a Muve Dynamic. It was a fit bike from Exit, from my Google search It looked very much like the Exit MKii
4) I didn't really maintain the position longer than 2 minutes on the fit bike and certainly not under any remarkable effort, if any effort at all. Just kind of assumed the position with 50 watt pedal strokes briefly until told to stop by the fitter.
The only other anecdotal data I have is that an XL Canyon Endurace AL 7.0 was way too big for me and needed a 70mm stem to be tolerable. I currently have a Large Giant Propel that feels like it is just a hair too long but I'm still dialing in fit on it.
Tried to embed the links, failed.
Endurace:
https://www.canyon.com/...l-disc-7.0/2394.html Giant:
https://www.giant-bicycles.com/...advanced-disc-1-2021 SpencerR,
The Exit MkII is a great fit bike, it's the one I use - It gives me confidence to hear that the proper tooling was utilized. There's a lot of logic behind using a crank (170mm) that will come on the bike. Bicycle manufacturers (and component manufacturers for that matter) are a bit behind the curve in learning about the value of short cranks. Innovators like John Cobb (Speed and Comfort) are quicker at following science, trends and can produce short cranks far faster than the big boys (Shiman, SRAM, Campy) and bike companies have to catch up spec'ing their builds with the stuff we need. I'm confident you'd be better off with a crank shorter than a 170 but who wants to buy a brand new bike, pull the cranks that came on it and buy shorter cranks for Speedandcomfort.com or Rotor and install. It's a bummer but for those chasing perfection it's a must. The cranks are one part of this story... the saddle and where you perch is another.
There are triathlon specific saddles: ISM Adamo, again Jcobb at SpeedAndComfort, and others that make saddles specifically for triathlon. And then you have to find the model that's comfy for you - and there's no other way to do it than to get in your position and have the saddle put under you. The Canyon Speedmax you order will very likely come with a Selle Italia Watt Superflow - you might perch out on that and love it. If you don't start trying other saddles.
Shorter cranks would be nice. The proper saddle is MANDATORY. Now, here's where it'll effect your fit. When you move to the nose of the saddle you're going to be more powerful.. To make that position work you're gonna want your front end (read: aerobars) to move forward for sure and probably down a bit. So, back to the prescription: it's still a Speedmax size Medium with the stock 80mm stem....but now the arm cups might be in the middle hole (you can adjust this yourself in 90seconds: velcro pads peel off, 4mm hex bolts come out and move to a new hole). And, maybe the aerobar pedestal might be 45 or 50mm instead of 55 (you can solve this yourself in ~3min: 5mm bolts come out, different size spacers go in with appropriate bolts to match - it's all in the box).
You should order the Medium with confidence. When it arrives put it in the position the fitter created and start riding. You'll likely make some tweaks after each of the first few rides: cockpit forward, cockpit down, aero extensions tilted up and grips turned in a hair, saddle nose down 1 degree, etc...... and long term changes: 160mm cranks, sexy wheels, some BTA (between the aerobars) hydration system, etc.
My mom came from super humble beginnings and she's done well. In her life she's owned 4 homes. She once told me "your never finished improving you house 'til the day you sell it". I feel that way about bicycles.
Ian
Ian Murray
http://www.TriathlonTrainingSeries.com I like the pursuit of mastery
Twitter - @TriCoachIan