Some info here that might help:

https://weightweenies.starbike.com/...ewtopic.php?t=155088

I believe yours is the Aero Rim Brake Rear Hub, if so then it is pretty easy.

I've never serviced your type of wheel, but it seems to have almost exactly the same layout as my Bullet rear wheel (except for a drive ring on the Reynolds and an additional spacer on the Bullet) I just serviced yesterday (new bearings), which is quite easy if you lay out the parts in the order you remove them, obviously paying attention during disassembly to keeping them on the L and R side as you remove them.

Prior to servicing them, run a piece of cloth edgewise between each gear on the cassette with the wheel on the bike. You can do a more detailed clean on that afterwards but the cloth will remove most of the gunk a lot more easily while it's either still on the bike, or at the very least the cassette is still on the wheel.

https://cdn.shopify.com/...8_Tech_Doc_REV_A.pdf

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The more people I encounter the more I love my cats.

Tap the bearings out and press new ones in.

Nothing at all special in there, but as the axle has two bearing retainer lips yo will need an overaxle bearing press to fit new bearing.

I received a response from the company stating that RZR bearing replacement is difficult and requires proprietary tools. So, perhaps these wheels aren't built the same as other sets. I know that my old Zipp wheels were relatively easy to open with Allen keys. They said I had to ship the wheel to replace the bearings. Not exactly what I had in mind.

I am not surprised they want you to spend more money lol. But Hey! If the tool is affordable and makes bearing replacement easy then it is worth it. I won't tell you what the cheapo hammer cost that I used to tap out my bearings, but I will say that it was bought at a dollar store. As long as they come out and go in straight, I don't think there is going to be large enough internal scratches for concern. This is the 2nd time I've changed mine and those buggers still require a more than a love tap.

I will say this though, when removing the first bearing I used something similar as a flathead screwdriver to tap around it in circles so it would come out as straight as possible. For removal of the 2nd, I stuck something larger through the hub that would apply pressure fully around the bearings so it would come out more easily. Installation of both was a lot more easy since I could use something larger to knock them in.

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The more people I encounter the more I love my cats.

What is the proprietary tool?

Getting them out is easy, tap the axle.
Getting them in requires you to press the last bearing into the hub while sliding along the axle, hence the need for an over axle press system.
You cannot use the old bearing to press with as it will stick on both the axle and the hub cavity and you cannot get it off.
You have to have a dolly just oversize for the axle and just under size for hubshell so you can press the bearing in and then remove the dolly.
You cannot fit these with a hammer, so stop bullshitting, the bearing seats under flush.
You cannot remove the first bearing with a screwdriver as it has a shoulder on the inside edge of both bearings so they have to come outwards whilst the axle is in place, so tapping it out with a soft face hammer is the only way to remove the first bearing, you can bash out the other in any way you wish, but simply putting the axle back in and tapping works best and will be what is recommended by the manufacturer.

Over axle press.

An over axle bearing press isn't proprietary.

Thanks for the info. I will use that for the next time that I change the bearings.
Here is the hammer and 1 of the old bearings for a size reference showing that it is possible to use a small hammer without damaging the hub shell.

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The more people I encounter the more I love my cats.

He didn't specify. I don't think he is a technician or mechanic. He's probably basic tech support (representative) and may not have specific knowledge about every issue. In any case, I'm not going to ship a wheel to the US from Canada, where I'm located, not at this time with all the shipping delays caused by the pandemic. I was quoted $80 for the bearing replacement but that won't include shipping costs. I don't think it's worth it when there's a chance I can do it myself or find someone capable at a LBS, which is a better option. Besides, this is an expensive wheelset despite having purchased it used. I don't want to take chances shipping it to their facility and back.

I have a general duty Park bearing press for headsets and BB bearings but it won't work with hubs. I used it for a BB installation last year. I've seen a shop remove and install bearings on my Zipp 808 with an extractor tool and hub bearing press. It was quite the ordeal for the mechanic, stubborn bearings. I've wanted a hub bearing press for a while now and perhaps I should consider the investment since it will be needed eventually for my other and future wheelsets. I'm only concerned that this wheel actually does require tools that cannot be purchased, which is why I hoped someone else with an RZR wheel would have replied. It's still not obvious (to me) how to even remove the freaking end caps on these wheels...

"I'm only concerned that this wheel actually does require tools that cannot be purchased"


There is no reason to be concerned.


"It's still not obvious (to me) how to even remove the freaking end caps on these wheels"


Did you try pulling them off?

This is the type of tool typically specified https://www.parktool.com/...le-vise-inserts-av-5

Though you can probably come up with something knowing this is how the caps are pulled off.