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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [trigeekrusk] [ In reply to ]
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Probably too late nowbut as the left pedal is the master it doesn't really matter if the right one can be found does it.

My not connecting right p1 pedal problem returned again. I will be returning them under warranty in a couple of weeks once I have got a couple of races out of the way. To be honest if I Repurchased I would just buy single sided not dual. I have never yet seen any significant difference between either leg.

My foray into time trialling at the age of 60
https://sixtyplustimetrialling.wordpress.com/
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jesse@bontrager] [ In reply to ]
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I've got a G3 hub on a set of training wheels which I have had for a couple of years. I recently bought another G3 hub on a set of Enve deep section wheels.

I am slightly concerned that both hubs are not reading the same. The one on the carbon wheels seems to be reading ever so slightly high. I tried doing a stomp test on both and using the calculator on cycling power lab. I got roughly the same results for both though not identical as the gearing between bikes is different. The value I got from the stomp test is nowhere near the value shown by my Garmin 910XT on the calibrate page - I am assuming that is showing a different unit of measurement though? The value from the stomp test was 445, the value shown on my garmin was about 43/44.

I put both bikes on a trainer and road at 240W and the speed displayed was roughly the same.

Just when riding the carbon wheels at an effort I expect to be in the 230-240W range the unit is showing 270-280W. Not sure if I am imaging it or not.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Johnnybike] [ In reply to ]
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I had the P1s (left side only), rode it for a week and couldn't stand it. The power (for me) was too far off for me to be able to pace off of.

If I'm 47/53% at 200 watts that is 94watts left and 106 right... with the left side only, the pedals double the left reading, so I'd be showing 188watts when I'm actually riding 200... and obviously that difference grows as your power output is higher... not too mention the +-1-2% tolerance.
This is just my experience and something to consider....

All this being said PowerTap has been phenomenal to work with. There was no problem in swapping out the P1s for the P1, they were very kind and polite. A+ on customer service
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [DrunkIrishman] [ In reply to ]
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Hi! I have bought a used PowerTap that I struggle to get to work, so I wonder if anyone has the same experience or tips on how to get it right. I have connected it to the PowerAgent software and downloaded the latest firmware v. 16.063 - and have a brand new battery (tried 2 different batteries.) I paired the sensor with my Garmin Edge 520. All good so far. But when I start cycling it shows too high watts. We speak average over 500 watts and max 1800 watts. That's the one, the other is that it never shows 0 watts when I'm not pedaling. That is, it continues to show enormous watts, even in downhill where I do not pedal at all. The sensor is on auto-zero, and I have calibrated many times, both before and during the ride. What am I doing wrong? According to the seller, it worked as normal before I took over it.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Greenball] [ In reply to ]
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Perfect time for an ftp test and awesome bragging rights ... lol

WD :-)
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [WD Pro] [ In reply to ]
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Haha yeah right.. It messed up mye Fitness and Freshness on Strava soo much :)
Luckely I found FIT File Tools.

Anyway, I have been struggeling with the Powertap all day. But I really cannot get it to display correct power measurement.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Greenball] [ In reply to ]
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When the hubs start reading high it's time to send the wheel into PowerTap for service. A G3 usually gets new electronics and mechanicals.

If you bought it new, it's free service. Since not, you are going to have to shell out a few hundred $$.

Contact Powertap first to discuss it with them on their hotline.

My 2000 watt efforts were really awesome.... but not really after servicing.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Greenball] [ In reply to ]
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I've owned several PTs for 15 years and I'd say the person who just sold you that one just screwed you.

As mentioned above, you're probably going to have to send it back to Saris for service.

Thanks, Chris
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [lakerfan] [ In reply to ]
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I just spent several days asking PowerTap about upgrading my P1s to dual sided. Official answer - just over a year after they announced the P1s while saying there would be an upgrade path - is nope, still not happening.


"We are currently working on the upgrade process. We will have it available, however it is not ready to be released at this time. When we released the P1s pedals, we talked about the upgrade process in the future, it just been a year since we released the single sided pedals and are in the process of working through this update." Followed by "technical details, blah blah" "working correctly blah blah".


The part of my question that did not get answered was "how about you just take my P1s in under warranty, send me back a dual sided pair, and charge me the difference?" I get technical issues, but come on, it's been a year! Spend less $$$ advertising all over FaceBook and put some of those $$$ into R&D.


I am - was - a happy customer who is asking them to take more of my money. Got to be a better answer than "upgrade process in the future". I can upgrade to Garmin Vector 3's any time of the day I want.

I'm closer to the feathered end of the spear than the point.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Calvin386] [ In reply to ]
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Calvin386 wrote:
I recently updated my Power Agent software to 7.9.15. Since the update, I can no longer connect to the firmware server. The error message is “Error connecting to firmware server”.


Anyone else experience this issue?

My P1 started reading very low watts. I used to have this problem whenever I got the "right power sensor missing". Now I am not getting the message but the reading are way off. Swapped batteries yesterday. It doens't seem to be a Garmin issue, because, TrainerRoad is also reading very low.

Any ideas?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [David_Tris] [ In reply to ]
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David_Tris wrote:
I can upgrade to Garmin Vector 3's any time of the day I want.

I would recommend that. I have not received mine yet, and being without a power meter on the trainer is killing me, but I have high hopes for the Vector 3 pedals once they arrive. This is Garmin's 3rd model so I expect they have worked out a lot of the kinks. Powertap still seems to be learning here.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [beercity] [ In reply to ]
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I am awaiting the Vector 3 as well. Tracking# says it will be delivered today. This is coming from 2 powertap hubs and a Quarq. The Quarq was solid, but the GS hub which was under a year old failed due to "user error" (according to powertap) in replacing the battery.

That was a costly learning experience.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [dbautista] [ In reply to ]
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Hello all,

I have a couple of Powertap G3s and a P2M. One of the G3s is really old and consistently reads under by about 5 to 10 watts average. Sounds like not much but it really bugs me as that represents a significant fitness difference for me and it screws up data comparisons between rides on different bikes. It was serviced and recalibrated by Paligap maybe a year ago (and I was told that it had been reading under), but I'm not sure that made much difference.. ;-)

I'm thinking perhaps that it's just old and needs a new torque tube. Where is the best place in the UK to get that done these days? I notice that cyclepowermeters.com are now offering servicing of G3s as an alternative to Paligap. What I'd really like is some way that I could drop it off somewhere local (I'm in Edinburgh) rather than having to package up a wheel and send it through the mail.. You would think that someone might have arranged some sort of service network with bike shops or something..? Or would that just be too organised and sensible for the UK? ;-)

Thanks for any advice.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [ In reply to ]
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Zwift & P1 question.

My L/R power balance is about 46/54 in favour of my right leg. Mostly due to a full rupture of my L achilles back in 2012.

For Zwift, I have to connect either the L or R pedal. I did a ride today and had my Garmin running at he same time. When my L pedal was connected my Garmin showed about 20w higher than Zwift and the opposite when I changed it to the R pedal.

Is there a way to get the L pedal transmitting the correct power reading to Zwift?

I ride:
Cervelo - P-Series/R3
GT - Sensor Carbon Expert

Supporters - Flo Cycling, Mount Bikes
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Johnnybike] [ In reply to ]
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Johnnybike wrote:
Amazingly, after four days of the r/h pedal not working on my kickr the pedal suddenly sprung into life.
No Idea of why but it is performing fine now.
Powertap support never got back to me. Not very impressed with them.

Did you have the battery in or out during those four days, or was there anything else you did that might have helped fix the issue? After changing my batteries last night I'm running into what sounds like the same situation. And I have a race tomorrow morning...

tricalculator.com
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [beercity] [ In reply to ]
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I hit up PowerTap again yesterday (last asked in October, but didn't care much over the winter) about upgrading from single-sided to dual. Still no option. So I've gotten on the delivery list for a set of dual Garmin Vector 3's, and PowerTap lost another customer. No wonder they're getting killed in the marketplace.

I'm closer to the feathered end of the spear than the point.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [David_Tris] [ In reply to ]
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I love my P1 pedals, nearly two years old now. But you have to wonder when v2 will be out. Especially with Garmin releasing the Vectors in such a smaller form than the P1 pedals are.

I ride:
Cervelo - P-Series/R3
GT - Sensor Carbon Expert

Supporters - Flo Cycling, Mount Bikes
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Official PowerTap Thread [ In reply to ]
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Since the last update my P1 have turned into complete bullshit! Nothing works on it, whether it'd be on BLE or ant+ on trainer road with my Samsung galaxy Tab A tablet or garmin F3, 520 nor 1000... it just reads like straight doodo!!!

The last time I spoke to a rep they tried to say that it was a garmin issue and not a pedal problem however my HR is consistent with what my tablet and all 3 other garmin devices read!!!

I should've never done the last update as I am still getting the "missing right pedal" message even during rides!!! I'm so fucking pissed with this last firmware I swear, it makes me seriously fucking P-I-S-S-E-D O-F-F!!!

Speed kills unless you have speed skills!!!
Last edited by: playero: Jun 4, 18 4:11
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [playero] [ In reply to ]
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Still getting "missing right pedal" warning, after last firmware update.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [Ksavostin] [ In reply to ]
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I spoke to the powertap service rep and be said that's a garmin issue and not a Powertap problem.

Has anyone received their v3 battery caps and noticed any improvements on power spikes/drop offs and overall consistency???

Speed kills unless you have speed skills!!!
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jbartholomew] [ In reply to ]
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was getting short (few seconds) power/cadence drops on 2014 G3 hub on HED belgium. replaced the battery. seemed to work fine for a few rides. now the power/cadence drops are up to 40 seconds. using with a 2013 910XT Garmin watch.

any recommendations?
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jbartholomew] [ In reply to ]
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I'm having trouble with my Powertap GS and it's driving me nuts.

A few weeks ago, it died during a ride. OK, no prob. I replaced the battery, but 5 mins into my next ride, my Garmin told me the battery was low, then power readings were gone.

Since then, I have replaced 3 batteries and I get the same reading every time. 5 mins of power, then I get the same notice, then it dies.

So, I removed the pm, updated the firmware, cleaned off all the contact points, ensured the o ring is properly seated, but nothing works. It dies after 5 mins every time.

I also tried multiple devices and apps, to include trainerroad (PC), Garmin (watch), and even the strava app (phone) and they all read it. They also all pick up my HR monitor, cadence sensor, etc...

I will contact Saris today, but if you guys have any suggestions, pls let me know.
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [d00d] [ In reply to ]
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d00d wrote:
I'm having trouble with my Powertap GS and it's driving me nuts.

A few weeks ago, it died during a ride. OK, no prob. I replaced the battery, but 5 mins into my next ride, my Garmin told me the battery was low, then power readings were gone.

Since then, I have replaced 3 batteries and I get the same reading every time. 5 mins of power, then I get the same notice, then it dies.

So, I removed the pm, updated the firmware, cleaned off all the contact points, ensured the o ring is properly seated, but nothing works. It dies after 5 mins every time.

I also tried multiple devices and apps, to include trainerroad (PC), Garmin (watch), and even the strava app (phone) and they all read it. They also all pick up my HR monitor, cadence sensor, etc...

I will contact Saris today, but if you guys have any suggestions, pls let me know.

Please let me know how you go on - could be coincidence but I have a similar issue on a GS ...

On another note, does anyone know the led flashing functions / messages from the led inside the power cap ?

WD :-)
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [PowerTapPM] [ In reply to ]
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I have a powertap c1 unit. A couple of months ago I was losing connectivity after a few minutes of riding. I would pull the battery, it would connect OK, then dropout again. Replaced the battery, but still had the same issue. Powertap support indicated it was likely moisture shorting the electronics.

I took off the battery and electronics cover and did find evidence of moisture. I dried the unit out and everything seemed to be working ok for the past couple of months.

Yesterday I rode in some light rain. This morning the powertap was malfunctioning again. This time my power numbers would continually rise even at a constant cadence. I stayed in a low gear, and yet the meter was reporting over 600 watts by the time I stopped. I went through several cycles of pulling the battery and going through calibration process using the powertap mobile app, my Garmin 520, and trainer road. Same behavior with all.

I have again pulled out the battery and electronics cover, and placed a fan on the unit. Will see if this fixes the issue.

A few questions:

1) Has the ingress of moisture corrupted the electronics permanently? I'm concerned about getting accurate readings, even if the clearly incorrect power readings subside by drying the unit out.

2) Assuming there is no permanent damage, how can I keep moisture out of the electronics? I was out yesterday for less than an hour in a very light rain. That causing issues is concerning.

---------------------------------------------------------

"What the mind can conceive and believe, the mind and body can achieve; and those who stay will be champions."
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Re: Official PowerTap Thread [jackattack] [ In reply to ]
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Hi guys,

Help needed...

Left pedal low (or no) power readings and low cadence, right pedal is working fine.

Just got a brand new battery caps replacement and replaced the batteries too (always lithium) and already tried different vendors. Firmware is up to date (both pedals of course).

I could identify this by using the PowerTap App for iPhone, creating a profile and connecting only the right pedal I`m able to get normal power and cadence. If I connect the left pedal power and cadence drops really low. Only left pedal just low cadence.

Any ideas?

Thank you in advance.
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