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Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri
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So, looking for ideas for particular bike gear upgrades. I'm gearing up for Embrunman in August, but I think I'll need some upgrades to the bike. I pretty much settled on using my road bike (Cervelo SLC), as I don't think I'll get comfortable enough on the downhill sections on the TT bike.

So, questions are mostly about gearing and saddle. Current saddle is the Cobb Max, coming from a Fizik. The Fizik worked well in a road position but not when sliding forward for TT. The Cobb is the opposite, works well for TT when positioned properly but not so great if standing up. So, anybody has experience with a do-it-all saddles? I was looking towards Dash saddles because they are light, but maybe padding is not appropriate for what I am trying to do (I'm 175lbs btw)? Any experience/suggestions?

Also, I was going to use a standard crank (53/39) with a 12/32 in the back. I went through Savageman with that setup and an 11/27 back and managed to go through the wall without falling, but I wished I had easier gearing a lot of time. So while Embrunman is not easy by any means, it doesn't have the percentages of Savageman, so I figure going up to a 32 back will give me the flexibility I need. Any feedback? Anybody thinks I should consider changing the crank gearing?

Also, does anybody knows a good handlebar/tt bar combo? I have Head flip lite right now, but I would like to clean up the front end of the bike if possible, especially if I go with an electronic group (if that is actually worth it?)

Let me know if you have experience with all this! Thanks!
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Re: Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri [Baboonator] [ In reply to ]
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Bump? Anyone?
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Re: Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri [Baboonator] [ In reply to ]
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Not sure what type of crank you have or what you have already invested in, but I would rather go with a 50/34 crank and continue to use the 11/27 cassette. If you have a Shimano 4 bolt type crank (the 11 speed stuff), then you can swap just the chain rings. If not, you would probably need to replace the whole crank.

My reasons for opting this way is that you'll have pretty much the same bail out gear (34/27 is slightly harder than 39/32), but you'll have much better gear spacing through the rest of the cassette. It'll also be lighter (smaller chain rings, smaller cassette, shorter derailleur hanger, shorter chain) and you'll get less chain slap.
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Re: Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri [Jason N] [ In reply to ]
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Thanks, somebody else told me the same thing. Will probably go 11-28 in the back if possible. If 11-27 only, it still should give me enough granny gear, I hope.
Last edited by: Baboonator: Jan 11, 18 12:54
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Re: Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri [Baboonator] [ In reply to ]
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“Don’t buy upgrades, ride up grades” – Eddy Merckx
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Re: Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri [Hoffmeister] [ In reply to ]
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Hoffmeister wrote:
“Don’t buy upgrades, ride up grades” – Eddy Merckx

While this is a great quote, attributing it to Merckx is apocryphal at best. It doesn't translate to Flemish (Dutch) or French, and I doubt Merckx' command of the English language was such that he could pun at that level.

Citizen of the world, former drunkard. Resident Traumatic Brain Injury advocate.
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Re: Gear advice for climbing long distance Tri [Hoffmeister] [ In reply to ]
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Ha, will keep it in mind, but I don't know how well I'll be able to ride up grades with the wrong gearing! Same with wrong bike actually, I've read on the forum and other places about TT bike vs road, and while a good deal of people seems to favor using a TT bike, my gut tell me that a road bike is the right choice here. It's just that I don't have mountains around here so testing will be limited.
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